Help please (Update as promised)

[alamocdc]

I glued up a Koa blank (my only one) for one of my Cigars and while I was turning it down I noticed the grain is acting like it's running in opposite directions on either side of the blank (upper and lower). Most of the blank is turning smooth, but almost 1/6 of each piece looks almost like the tearout you sometimes get from a planer if the board has grain that is angled upward. Tools are sharp (I checked twice) so that isn't the problem. I tried saturating both in CA, but that didn't help. Wouldn't get in far enough I guess. The only thing I can think of that I haven't tried is wetting the blanks with water. I've done this with figured woods being run through a planer to prevent tearout, but they are substantially larger and raising the grain isn't such an issue. Do any of you experts have any suggestions? I have these almost down to finished size and I'd like to get a good pen out of them.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT:
This pic is the rough side of the upper.

This is the smooth side of the same piece.

This is the rough side of the lower. The problem I'm speaking of is a little easier to see.

 

[vick]

personally having already done the things you have stated I would rough turn and switch to 80 grit to get it to final size.

 

[DCBluesman]

If you are getting moving grain in each portion of the blank, I suspect you have figured koa--which is highly prized! If you can post a picture of the blank it would help. If it is figured, I would strongly recommend an extremely light tough with a skew to finish turning--even using sandpaper for the last couple of 32nds.

 

[darbytee]

I've gotta agree with Mike on this one, 80 grit gouge and some patience. Good luck with it.

 

[arehrlich]

Looks like the blank might have been cut across the grain providing you with 2 sides of end grain. Sandpaper and sealer should help a lot.

Alan

 

[DCBluesman]

Do NOT lose this blank! It should make a gorgeous pen. You are close enough to finish shaping with sandpaper. As Alan said, use a sanding sealer for a base finish. I think you're going to love this pen. [8D]

 

[knottyharry]

That was my first thought. Curly, or figured. I think it will make a fabulous looking pen.
Harry

 

[Fleabit]

When I run into this, I do my finishing to size with sandpaper as stated above. Use sanding sealer (one coat) to get a base and then sand to size followed by another coat of sanding sealer. My process, may not be for you.

 

[low_48]

I think the others might have overstated the sand paper grit a little. 80 grit on koa is like using pea gravel. 120 grit at the coursest will make the wood fly off. 80 grit will cut in some valleys that will take forever to sand out, maybe never before you hit the final diameter. This blank will be very impressive when finished. Figure koa will bounce the light and change colors with the best of all figured woods.

Rich

 

[woodscavenger]

Two words.....GRIT GOUGE. Taught to me by Fred_NC. Just sand it down and cross your fingers.

 

[alamocdc]

Thanks, all! I'll give the sanding gouge a try and see what happens. Hopefully I won't end up with a disaster![]

 

[alamocdc]

I just wanted to update everyone that provided comments on this. The sanding did the trick! I used a small flap sander (100 grit) in my pneumatic drill with the lathe running to gently "sculpt" the pieces to just proud of their desired shape and size. Then I hand sanded the rest of the way. It still took FOREVER, but I think it was worth it. I tried a new finish that I think I'm going to like, but it does take just a bit longer. I'll post pics tomorrow.

Thanks again to everyone!!!!

 

[atvrules1]

Billy, some of those that take a little extra time are the prettiest finished products. We anxiously await pictures.

 

[alamocdc]

All, I finally finished the pen and all in all, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. Take a look.

<br />

Other side

<br />

I also used a different finish than I've been using and I think I like it. Three coats of lacquer sanding sealer followed by three coats of Deft lacquer (brushed on) and buffed out. It takes longer, but based on the woes I've been reading about FP finishes not wearing well I decided to give this a try. Although the pics don't really pic up the sheen, this pen is GLOSSY!

Again, thanks to everyone for the suggestions. You saved the day on this one!

 

[Tom McMillan]

Lookin good Billy!!! The lacquer sounds like a lot of work---how long did you have to wait to buff? I'm pretty much a novice yet with the lacquer and have found it a bit difficult to do on my metal pens.

 

[alamocdc]

Tom, I actually waited 24 hours, but I didn't get very agressive with it. I didn't have to. I used brown cardboard first (read something about it here) to remove the minutia and then just buffed it out.

 

[arehrlich]

Looks like it was worth the extra work. Very nice pen.

Alan

 

[DCBluesman]

Very nice, Billy. And that's a fine job for your first lacquer finish!

Tom--lacquer on metal is quite a bit different than lacquer on wood. Drop me a note if you want to discuss my experience with it.