Help finding jig

[SCjim]

I have to turn quite a few 2" to 3" x 12" long blocks of different hardwood down to about 1-1/2" diameter. Somewhere I think I seen a jig for an bandsaw that I could use to cut the edges off the blanks to save some time turning. I hope I am making myself clean. I do this in a disc sand by hand before I turn pen blanks but wood this size but wood like to "trim" the corners on these blocks before I chuck the up in my lathe.
Jim
Randleman, NC, USA

 

[dogcatcher]

I believe you are looking a Semaphore jig. Search semaphore on IAP will get it.

 

[egnald]

It sounds like quite a project. Even without a jig you could get a good jump start by running them through a bandsaw on two adjacent square faces to first turn them into 1-1/2 inch by 12-inch square spindles.

After spindles are square, I attach an auxiliary fence to my bandsaw and set it up to cut the corners off. I attached a couple of photos of the fence I made. It uses a piece of angle aluminum attached to a board at an angle with a notch in one spot to clear the blade. Then I simply measure, set the fence up and push the spindles through 4 times rotating by 1/4 turn between cuts.

Dave

 

[its_virgil]

seems using a bandsaw and jig will take about the same amount of time as turning totally on the lathe....and then you have the fun and not the bandsaw. ;-)
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Robbie]

I just use my large stationary belt sander to sand the corners off, only takes a few seconds. I do this after I square the ends of the blank so I know exactly how far I need to sand off the corners and keep the blank fairly round.

 

[jttheclockman]

https://www.penturners.org/resources/blank-rounding-jig-for-the-bandsaw-tutorial.474/

https://www.penturners.org/threads/cutting-corners-with-bandsaw.172452/

 

[monophoto]

Harbor Freight sells a 5" disc designed for hook/loop abrasive. It's intended for use on a grinder that has a 5/8x11 threaded shaft. I made a wooden arbor that screws onto my lathe spindle (1x8tpi - that tap was the first accessory I bought when I got the lathe), and that has a 5/8" tenon that screws into the nut on the sanding disc.

Some would argue that hook/loop abrasive is not ideal for this application because the hook/loop join is soft and resilient. In my opinion, that only matters if you press the workpiece hard into the abrasive. If you use a light touch, which you should anyway, the resilience of the surface won't matter.

 

[jttheclockman]

Harbor Freight sells a 5" disc designed for hook/loop abrasive. It's intended for use on a grinder that has a 5/8x11 threaded shaft. I made a wooden arbor that screws onto my lathe spindle (1x8tpi - that tap was the first accessory I bought when I got the lathe), and that has a 5/8" tenon that screws into the nut on the sanding disc.

Some would argue that hook/loop abrasive is not ideal for this application because the hook/loop join is soft and resilient. In my opinion, that only matters if you press the workpiece hard into the abrasive. If you use a light touch, which you should anyway, the resilience of the surface won't matter.

I think we now mixed 2 different threads here. He is looking to knock the corners off the blank and not square the ends. That is another thread about faceplates. But being you brought this up and I truely truely stand by my thoughts because I see it. . Do what you want but get into sanding Truestone and Italian acrylics and metals, that are much harder materials and you need to lean into the sandpaper or you will be there for a month of Sundays. When you do press hard you now have the sandpaper round over the outside edges. Some people like that anyway but to me I want that crisp end. So will recommend not to use hook and loop but that is just one man's opinion but with experience behind it.

 

[boatemp]

I like the router method. Faster and neater. IMO.