Gluing in general

[Tim W Russell]

I'm looking for the best glue/adhesive(s) for gluing different types of wood together. I laminate wood together, and over time, a few of the joints are coming apart. Is epoxy better than wood glue? Any suggestions on brands of wood glue? Epoxy brands? Slow drying or quick drying?

 

[jttheclockman]

I'm looking for the best glue/adhesive(s) for gluing different types of wood together. I laminate wood together, and over time, a few of the joints are coming apart. Is epoxy better than wood glue? Any suggestions on brands of wood glue? Epoxy brands? Slow drying or quick drying?

Not a simple answer. So many factors go into this question. What types of wood because woods have different open grain properties, where the wood is being used, how the wood is being used and many more. Here is a nice article that helps explain differences.

https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/adhesives-sealants/best-wood-glue/

 

[monophoto]

Agree with John - the best answer is 'it depends'.

But my general rules of thumb are:

• For general purpose gluing: PVA (yellow or white makes no difference). I usually use Titebond I
• If end-grain is involved: polyurethane
• If the joint will be exposed to moisture: either a waterproof PVA or polyurethane
• Regluing previously glued furniture joints: epoxy
• Gluing metal to wood: polyurethane or epoxy
• Gluing glass to wood: silicone

In general, I prefer PVA glue because its less messy, and cleanup is easy - just takes a damp rag - and the shelf life is much longer than other adhesives. PVA, epoxy and polyurethane joints tend to be flexible, but if maximum flexibility is required, I use a silicone caulk/adhesive. Both epoxy and polyurethane are very messy to use, so I only use them when other adhesives won't do the job. I generally dislike CA, but I do keep it in the shop for small gluing jobs and for minor surface repairs; however, CA joints are brittle so it's not ideal if maximum structural strength is needed.

 

[wimkluck]

If i have problems with glueing i use https://www.amazon.com/UHU-Endfest-Plus-300-Component/dp/B0774J8L9J

 

[Woodchipper]

Oily woods should be wiped with DNA before gluing.

 

[wimkluck]

Oily woods should be wiped with DNA before gluing.

Not only wiped also you need to glue it soon after the aceton is dry. The oil in the wood does come back in a short time.

 

[penicillin]

I tend to use the same glues for the same purposes as @monophoto above. His post is very good. (I use polyurethane for gluing pen tubes in pen blanks, but do not want to start a discussion in this thread. It should be reserved for other threads.)

-> What do people use for wiping and cleaning oily woods before gluing?

The most popular choices seem to be denatured alcohol (DNA) and acetone. I have also seen mineral spirits used.

I have had DNA raise the grain on some woods before. I wondered whether the DNA was old and had absorbed enough water from the air over time, or whether that "just happens."

I also think about the use of the product. If it is to be "food safe", then I prefer to avoid chemical solvents - oily wood or not. I know that they evaporate quickly from the surface, but wonder if any solvent is wicked and remains deep inside to evaporate over time. I also wonder whether solvents can leave small amounts of chemical residues that do not evaporate.

 

[rherrell]

I glue quite a bit of end grain when making my rocking chairs and I swear by this tip. Think of end grain like a handful of straws, it will just drink up the glue.
What I do is apply a coating of Titebond and leave it for about 15 minutes, if you can still see the "straws" put on another coat and wait. Do this until it doesn't suck up any more glue, apply one more coat and clamp your pieces together.

 

[jttheclockman]

I glue quite a bit of end grain when making my rocking chairs and I swear by this tip. Think of end grain like a handful of straws, it will just drink up the glue.
What I do is apply a coating of Titebond and leave it for about 15 minutes, if you can still see the "straws" put on another coat and wait. Do this until it doesn't suck up any more glue, apply one more coat and clamp your pieces together.

One tip you need to underline when using that method is timing. You can not let the glue dry and setup because then all you will be doing is gluing glue to glue and does not make for a strong joint. You want that glue to fuse to the fibers of the wood and become one joint. Many people and I too have over the years used hide glue to glue chair joints. I then switched over to epoxy. Hide glue is a forgiving adhesive that can be taken apart when repairs are needed thus the reason many chair makers used it. I do not do furniture much any more.