Glue for segments

[michaelperez]

Hello everyone, I'm just starting to make some pen blanks from different kinds of wood. I always use titebond 2 to glue them together, but today i was drilling a hole in one and there was a section that fell apart.
Regularly I will glue it again, clamp it and wait till tomorrow but I thought "what if i use medium Ca glue for bonding it again?"do I also have to wait till tomorrow? Or is it better to glue it with TB?
Thank you in advance.

 

[jttheclockman]

Here is the problem. You have now sealed the grain of the wood with the TB. Even if you glued again with TB it will not have any chance to attach to the grain of the wood unless you freshen those ends up again by either a good sanding or recutting. Now CA glue is good for adhering solid surfaces but can also use some help with some tooth to both pieces by sanding. The same goes for epoxies. Med Ca takes alot longer to dry than thin but can be accelerated by using accelerator spray. Anyway you look at it it is still a crap shoot if it holds together no matter how you glue it. Just the nature of segmenting. Good luck.

 

[michaelperez]

Here is the problem. You have now sealed the grain of the wood with the TB. Even if you glued again with TB it will not have any chance to attach to the grain of the wood unless you freshen those ends up again by either a good sanding or recutting. Now CA glue is good for adhering solid surfaces but can also use some help with some tooth to both pieces by sanding. The same goes for epoxies. Med Ca takes alot longer to dry than thin but can be accelerated by using accelerator spray. Anyway you look at it it is still a crap shoot if it holds together no matter how you glue it. Just the nature of segmenting. Good luck.

Thanks so much, it helps a lot. I'm going to sand or give it a touch in my shooting board and glue it with TB again and wait until tomorrow. If i want to do things faster so I'll have to go slow and with patience. Until now TB has worked well for me.
greetings

 

[mark james]

Just me:

wood/wood - Titebond translucent.
wood/metal/acrylic/plastic - Epoxy
brass tubes/holes - epoxy

Many have had great success with CA varieties - I find it brittle.
Heat from drilling will soften epoxy. I go slow, cool the bit with water.
Patience is an asset, sharp drills are an asset.

 

[egnald]

I am 100% in agreement with Mark James. - Dave

 

[KenB259]

I am 100% in agreement with Mark James. - Dave

Same, but always on the lookout for a new glue

 

[michaelperez]

Just me:

wood/wood - Titebond translucent.
wood/metal/acrylic/plastic - Epoxy
brass tubes/holes - epoxy

Many have had great success with CA varieties - I find it brittle.
Heat from drilling will soften epoxy. I go slow, cool the bit with water.
Patience is an asset, sharp drills are an asset.

Thank you so much, i just cleaned the dry glue of the blank in the shooting board and clamped, tomorrow I'll be turning it.

 

[michaelperez]

Same, but always on the lookout for a new glue

im using TB 2, would you recommend TB3? for this purpose?

 

[michaelperez]

I am 100% in agreement with Mark James. - Dave

Thanks

 

[jttheclockman]

im using TB 2, would you recommend TB3? for this purpose?

Main Differences Between Titebond 2 vs 3 Wood Glues

The main differences between the Titebond II Premium vs the Titebond III Ultimate wood glues are:

• Titebond 2 offers 3,750psi of bond strength, whereas the Titebond 3 provides 4,000psi of bond strength
• Titebond 2 is waterproof, whereas Titebond 3 is water-resistant
• Titebond 2 has a blue label, whereas the label on the Titebond 3 is green
• Titebond's dried film is orange, whereas the color of the Titebond 3's dried film is light brown
• Titebond 2's minimum application temperature is 55F, whereas Titebond 3 can be applied to a material at 47F or higher temperatures

Key specifications

	Titebond II Premium	Titebond III Ultimate
Glue type	Cross-linking PVA	Proprietary polymer
Strength	3,750psi	4,000psi
Open time	3 to 5 minutes	8 to 10 minutes
Total assembly time	10 to 15 minutes	20 to 25 minutes
Minimum temperature during application	55F	47F
Shelf life	2 years	2 years
Latest price	Check latest price	Check latest price

Your call. I do not see much difference for the price difference. One being water resistant and one being waterproof. That does not mean much. You would gain a little in bond strength but again is that enough to differ the cost. Good luck. Hope you show the finished pen when done.

Here is a great video that talks about the entire Titebond line and some nice info.

 

[KenB259]

im using TB 2, would you recommend TB3? for this purpose?

I have been using the Titebond translucent for awhile. Titebond III is a little stronger, but I've had no issues with the translucent. I may be wrong, but I think their speed set is even a little stronger than Titebond III.

 

[michaelperez]

Another concern related to segmented pen turning is :
is a MUST using CA glue for finishing ?
I regularly use EEE ultra shine or Micro mesh and finally pen plus, but for segmented I was thinking in wood movement and don't know but I feel more confident going with CA.
maybe some of you have some experience.

 

[GaryMGg]

If you're joining Purpleheart to Ebony, you might want to wipe the glue surfaces with acetone and let it dry beginning gluing.

 

[jttheclockman]

Another concern related to segmented pen turning is :
is a MUST using CA glue for finishing ?
I regularly use EEE ultra shine or Micro mesh and finally pen plus, but for segmented I was thinking in wood movement and don't know but I feel more confident going with CA.
maybe some of you have some experience.

There are varied opinions I am sure. I will state what I do. All wood pens I use CA including woods with metal inserts. I do not use CA or any finish on acrylics including acrylics and metals.

 

[michaelperez]

Main Differences Between Titebond 2 vs 3 Wood Glues

The main differences between the Titebond II Premium vs the Titebond III Ultimate wood glues are:

• Titebond 2 offers 3,750psi of bond strength, whereas the Titebond 3 provides 4,000psi of bond strength
• Titebond 2 is waterproof, whereas Titebond 3 is water-resistant
• Titebond 2 has a blue label, whereas the label on the Titebond 3 is green
• Titebond's dried film is orange, whereas the color of the Titebond 3's dried film is light brown
• Titebond 2's minimum application temperature is 55F, whereas Titebond 3 can be applied to a material at 47F or higher temperatures

Key specifications

	Titebond II Premium	Titebond III Ultimate
Glue type	Cross-linking PVA	Proprietary polymer
Strength	3,750psi	4,000psi
Open time	3 to 5 minutes	8 to 10 minutes
Total assembly time	10 to 15 minutes	20 to 25 minutes
Minimum temperature during application	55F	47F
Shelf life	2 years	2 years
Latest price	Check latest price	Check latest price

Your call. I do not see much difference for the price difference. One being water resistant and one being waterproof. That does not mean much. You would gain a little in bond strength but again is that enough to differ the cost. Good luck. Hope you show the finished pen when done.

Thank you so much , I'll continue with TB2 and sure I'll be showing it when finished
greetings

 

[bsshog40]

I haven't done much segmenting but anytime I did, I only used 2 part epoxy. CA to me, just seems iffy at times. I use it for tubes with no problems but just don't trust it for securing wood under turning pressure or for a long life time of the wood.

 

[mark james]

Another concern related to segmented pen turning is :
is a MUST using CA glue for finishing ?
I regularly use EEE ultra shine or Micro mesh and finally pen plus, but for segmented I was thinking in wood movement and don't know but I feel more confident going with CA.
maybe some of you have some experience.

I prefer Wipe on Poly. Some of my segmented pens have 5 segments, some 200+. If there is a lot of small segments I am concerned about movement. CA is brittle (I have used a CA finished pen in my plow truck in 20 below zero temp and watched it fracture in front of my eyes - a slightly flawed pen, so it was amusing-I could actually hear it ) , WOP has a bit more flex. Both have advantages and disadvantages, so some experimenting is useful. (WOP I will admit is more fussy, but I have no social life, so I can be patient).

 

[michaelperez]

There are varied opinions I am sure. I will state what I do. All wood pens I use CA including woods with metal inserts. I do not use CA or any finish on acrylics including acrylics and metals.

Thank you, my major concern beside preference is about wood movement, that maybe when weather changes the wood can move and the finishing become uneven and maybe cracks. I don't know if things like that could happen
greetings

 

[michaelperez]

If you're joining Purpleheart to Ebony, you might want to wipe the glue surfaces with acetone and let it dry beginning gluing.

I would love using Ebony, it'sPeruvian walnut and Purple Heart, anyway I cleaned it very well in the shooting board
thanks to John T. Advice.
Thank you so much I'll keep it mind when I have the opportunity to work with ebony and Purple Heart.

 

[michaelperez]

I haven't done much segmenting but anytime I did, I only used 2 part epoxy. CA to me, just seems iffy at times. I use it for tubes with no problems but just don't trust it for securing wood under turning pressure or for a long life time of the wood.

Thanks so much

 

[michaelperez]

I prefer Wipe on Poly. Some of my segmented pens have 5 segments, some 200+. If there is a lot of small segments I am concerned about movement. CA is brittle (I have used a CA finished pen in my plow truck in 20 below zero temp and watched it fracture in front of my eyes - a slightly flawed pen, so it was amusing-I could actually hear it ) , WOP has a bit more flex. Both have advantages and disadvantages, so some experimenting is useful. (WOP I will admit is more fussy, but I have no social life, so I can be patient).

Thank you so much, there is a lot to learn definitely I'm going to search wipe on poly.
greetings

 

[studioseven]

Just sharing my experiences in drilling segmented blanks, make sure you don't allow the drill bit to overheat. The heat will transfer to the glue and it will loosen up. Take your time and use some type of coolant.

Seven

 

[jttheclockman]

Thank you so much, there is a lot to learn definitely I'm going to search wipe on poly.
greetings

You can use spray on poly as well as spray on lacquer. both as tough. When you use poly you really need to sand between coats if you want to do it properly.

 

[michaelperez]

Just sharing my experiences in drilling segmented blanks, make sure you don't allow the drill bit to overheat. The heat will transfer to the glue and it will loosen up. Take your time and use some type of coolant.

Seven

Thank you, yes now I'm more careful and do it slow and with very sharp bits

 

[michaelperez]

You can use spray on poly as well as spray on lacquer. both as tough. When you use poly you really need to sand between coats if you want to do it properly.

Thank you I'll have to try but with wet sanding

 

[michaelperez]

Thanks to everyone, I have some pictures of a collection that I'm working on.
It's long way to learn finishing, wood behave, etc.
greetings

 

[Woodchipper]

I use TB3 exclusively for gluing wood. Started using it for gluing cork rings for custom fishing rods.

 

[michaelperez]

I use TB3 exclusively for gluing wood. Started using it for gluing cork rings for custom fishing rods.

Thank u, next time I'll try TB3

 

[jimgodoy]

I use medium ca with accelerator exclusively regardless of material when building segmented blanks. I also finish all of my segmented pens with ca. other adhesives work fine as stated in the above comments however I generally don't want to wait overnight for something to set up or dry. With ca you can go from gluing to turning in a matter of minutes without much issue.

 

[jttheclockman]

I use medium ca with accelerator exclusively regardless of material when building segmented blanks. I also finish all of my segmented pens with ca. other adhesives work fine as stated in the above comments however I generally don't want to wait overnight for something to set up or dry. With ca you can go from gluing to turning in a matter of minutes without much issue.

It works for you but not everybody. Everyone needs to try for themselves.

 

[michaelperez]

I use medium ca with accelerator exclusively regardless of material when building segmented blanks. I also finish all of my segmented pens with ca. other adhesives work fine as stated in the above comments however I generally don't want to wait overnight for something to set up or dry. With ca you can go from gluing to turning in a matter of minutes without much issue.

Thank you,I also want to try accelerator looks like it's magic but I don't have it and I'm afraid to import it because it is spray and don't know if it's allowed, maybe I should try with a small sample and try, I think I'll better ask my courier and ask them if they know if it's allowed .
greetings

 

[jimgodoy]

It works for you but not everybody. Everyone needs to try for themselves.

 

[jimgodoy]

I don't mean to imply that it was the only way, but I would also say it can work for everyone of done correctly. Just like wood glue or epoxy can work for everyone if done appropriately. I was sharing my approach and reasons why I use CA over other methods.

 

[jttheclockman]

I don't mean to imply that it was the only way, but I would also say it can work for everyone of done correctly. Just like wood glue or epoxy can work for everyone if done appropriately. I was sharing my approach and reasons why I use CA over other methods.

I did not imply anything either. My thought on the process is first CA is brittle no matter how you do it. It can have a tendency to snap when drilling. Been there. Had pieces fall apart before I got to turning. (example shown) I too CA all my wood blanks but acrylics no. I found gluing acrylics and metals works better FOR ME if I use epoxy. If it works for you by all means keep doing it and have fun. Hope to see some of your segmented work. I love segmenting.

 

[michaelperez]

I did not imply anything either. My thought on the process is first CA is brittle no matter how you do it. It can have a tendency to snap when drilling. Been there. Had pieces fall apart before I got to turning. (example shown) I too CA all my wood blanks but acrylics no. I found gluing acrylics and metals works better FOR ME if I use epoxy. If it works for you by all means keep doing it and have fun. Hope to see some of your segmented work. I love segmenting.

View attachment 361408View attachment 361409

is it wood and acrylic ? Nice combination, looks elegant, its going to be a very nice pen.

 

[jttheclockman]

is it wood and acrylic ? Nice combination, looks elegant, its going to be a very nice pen.

It was holly and Gabon ebony with aluminum strips. That blank has made it to the I will get to it at another time pile. The actual pen design for that blank was going to a very busy one. It still on the drawing board though so maybe someday you will see a finished pen. But my point was that was the first and last time I used CA to glue my segments. Now it is epoxy.

 

[michaelperez]

It was holly and Gabon ebony with aluminum strips. That blank has made it to the I will get to it at another time pile. The actual pen design for that blank was going to a very busy one. It still on the drawing board though so maybe someday you will see a finished pen. But my point was that was the first and last time I used CA to glue my segments. Now it is epoxy.

 

[michaelperez]

Wow ebony, hope to see it finished very nice color and material selection.
I'm starting doing segmented pens and I find it so fun. I've prepared some segmented blanks exploring different possibilities and used titebond 2 for all my blanks.
Once I used epoxy but for filling olive wood cracks.
greetings

 

[jttheclockman]

Wow ebony, hope to see it finished very nice color and material selection.
I'm starting doing segmented pens and I find it so fun. I've prepared some segmented blanks exploring different possibilities and used titebond 2 for all my blanks.
Once I used epoxy but for filling olive wood cracks.
greetings

Yes I have used Gabon ebony and Holy before in a pen. Nice combination. Here is an example of one I did.

 

[jimgodoy]

I did not imply anything either. My thought on the process is first CA is brittle no matter how you do it. It can have a tendency to snap when drilling. Been there. Had pieces fall apart before I got to turning. (example shown) I too CA all my wood blanks but acrylics no. I found gluing acrylics and metals works better FOR ME if I use epoxy. If it works for you by all means keep doing it and have fun. Hope to see some of your segmented work. I love segmenting.

View attachment 361408View attachment 361409

I stopped using metal altogether for that reason. I've seen very few people have consistent success with it especially using it with angled cuts. Good luck with that one. I'm sure you know this but some others may not. To help reduce the risk of blowouts when's drilling a pen blank with scallops, drill thru the scallop end first.