GluBoost?

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Woodchipper

Woodchipper

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Joined
Mar 15, 2017
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Cleveland, TN
Getting an order together for Exotic Blanks. What do you recommend to start off with GB? Any special concerns, recommendations, etc., for the product? Remember, I've been using CA or CA/BLO for years. Did one with friction polish as an experiment and turned out nice.
 
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I personally think GluBoost is the most consistent finish out there. I can tell you JohnU, Ed and I apply the finish completely differently and the results are great. Below is my technique on video. I have used the thin and ultra thin but if you are looking for the basic I agree with Cozee.

Here is my technique
GluBoost Basic

I look forward to other comments on their experiences.
 
I concur with Greg (cozee), and also recommend the advanced set. I've never regretted getting the extra bottle of ultra-thin. If you do get the set that includes ultra-thin (green bottle), I also recommend getting some of the CA Applicator Tips (part T-111) to use with it. (Although, I think I bought these CA Glue Tips from Amazon when they were out of stock on EB).

- Dave
 
4th for the advance set, I wasn't sure how badly I needed the caddy for the bottles but I'll say I've not (yet) knocked over my GluBoost bottles since getting one and am now a fan.

I'm going to guess that you already use the non stick bushings already but if you don't then I would get in the habit of using those too.

My personal application technique is essentially between Mark & John's but probably closer to John. I use the ultra thin as a first couple coats on resin blanks and then move up to using the thin for two coats and then two coats of regular. Honestly not sure if I really need the regular coats because the ultrathin and thin do a nice job. It depends on how porous a wood blank is for me to start with thin or regular. I will dry sand up to 600 and cross hatch sand before changing grits on all pens.
 
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.
 
Woodchipper said:
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.
Click to expand...

I use GluBoost on all my pens, stoppers and cigar holders. I've attached a 10 minute video that John did recently showing how he uses GluBoost on resins. It also shows his overall technique. If you run the video forward to 7:22 you'll see where he did a blank with and without GluBoost and the difference is huge.

Kent

 
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bugradx2 said:
I use GluBoost on all my pens, stoppers and cigar holders. I've attached a 10 minute video that John did recently showing how he uses GluBoost on resins. It also shows his overall technique. If you run the video forward to 7:22 you'll see where he did a blank with and without GluBoost and the difference is huge.

Kent

Click to expand...
I'll watch it but first...the popcorn.
 
Woodchipper said:
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.
Click to expand...
On the question of non-wood blanks - short answer is it depends. On Alumilite blanks I always consider a coat or two of the orange bottle. It will bring out better color and vibrancy. On other commercial acrylic - I can usually polish it. As for deer antler (another nom-wood) I use GluBoost as my finish also.

Hope this helps.
 
For any material, the ultra-thin (green label) will fill microscratches and reinforce wood.
The orange label (thin) will do the same, but somewhat slower.
Pro (blue label) will "build" if that is what you desire.

In all cases, the accelerator is recommended by the manufacturer and is formulated to avoid "white spots".

Hope this helps!!
Ed
 
ed4copies said:
For any material, the ultra-thin (green label) will fill microscratches and reinforce wood.
The orange label (thin) will do the same, but somewhat slower.
Pro (blue label) will "build" if that is what you desire.

In all cases, the accelerator is recommended by the manufacturer and is formulated to avoid "white spots".

Hope this helps!!
Ed
Click to expand...
What is the difference in the ultra thin red label and the ultra thin green (or teal) label?
 
I own the kit, stand etc. I do like GB, but prefer mercury flex medium and thin. If I was repairing my guitars, I would use GB because of the tone/sound quality. I have tried GB on and off since its introduction (probably 20 to 25 bottles of the blue and orange combined - even won some, now a bottle of green with the blue and orange.) Just bought the whole sha-bang again b/c I don't want it to "beat" me. When I look under a 10x loupe, I do see micro scratches that GB claims to fill. Again, it must be me. I do see why there are more than one option out there. Everyone has something that works best for them. Good luck!
 
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