GluBoost?

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Woodchipper

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Getting an order together for Exotic Blanks. What do you recommend to start off with GB? Any special concerns, recommendations, etc., for the product? Remember, I've been using CA or CA/BLO for years. Did one with friction polish as an experiment and turned out nice.
 
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I personally think GluBoost is the most consistent finish out there. I can tell you JohnU, Ed and I apply the finish completely differently and the results are great. Below is my technique on video. I have used the thin and ultra thin but if you are looking for the basic I agree with Cozee.

Here is my technique
GluBoost Basic

I look forward to other comments on their experiences.
 
4th for the advance set, I wasn't sure how badly I needed the caddy for the bottles but I'll say I've not (yet) knocked over my GluBoost bottles since getting one and am now a fan.

I'm going to guess that you already use the non stick bushings already but if you don't then I would get in the habit of using those too.

My personal application technique is essentially between Mark & John's but probably closer to John. I use the ultra thin as a first couple coats on resin blanks and then move up to using the thin for two coats and then two coats of regular. Honestly not sure if I really need the regular coats because the ultrathin and thin do a nice job. It depends on how porous a wood blank is for me to start with thin or regular. I will dry sand up to 600 and cross hatch sand before changing grits on all pens.
 
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.
 
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.

I use GluBoost on all my pens, stoppers and cigar holders. I've attached a 10 minute video that John did recently showing how he uses GluBoost on resins. It also shows his overall technique. If you run the video forward to 7:22 you'll see where he did a blank with and without GluBoost and the difference is huge.

Kent

 
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I use GluBoost on all my pens, stoppers and cigar holders. I've attached a 10 minute video that John did recently showing how he uses GluBoost on resins. It also shows his overall technique. If you run the video forward to 7:22 you'll see where he did a blank with and without GluBoost and the difference is huge.

Kent

I'll watch it but first...the popcorn.
 
Thanks to all. Getting the order finalized.
I do use the non-stick bushings and have some HDPE pieces to turn some more.
bugradx2, do you use it on all non-wood blanks? Never coated synthetics with anything.
On the question of non-wood blanks - short answer is it depends. On Alumilite blanks I always consider a coat or two of the orange bottle. It will bring out better color and vibrancy. On other commercial acrylic - I can usually polish it. As for deer antler (another nom-wood) I use GluBoost as my finish also.

Hope this helps.
 
For any material, the ultra-thin (green label) will fill microscratches and reinforce wood.
The orange label (thin) will do the same, but somewhat slower.
Pro (blue label) will "build" if that is what you desire.

In all cases, the accelerator is recommended by the manufacturer and is formulated to avoid "white spots".

Hope this helps!!
Ed
 
For any material, the ultra-thin (green label) will fill microscratches and reinforce wood.
The orange label (thin) will do the same, but somewhat slower.
Pro (blue label) will "build" if that is what you desire.

In all cases, the accelerator is recommended by the manufacturer and is formulated to avoid "white spots".

Hope this helps!!
Ed
What is the difference in the ultra thin red label and the ultra thin green (or teal) label?
 
I own the kit, stand etc. I do like GB, but prefer mercury flex medium and thin. If I was repairing my guitars, I would use GB because of the tone/sound quality. I have tried GB on and off since its introduction (probably 20 to 25 bottles of the blue and orange combined - even won some, now a bottle of green with the blue and orange.) Just bought the whole sha-bang again b/c I don't want it to "beat" me. When I look under a 10x loupe, I do see micro scratches that GB claims to fill. Again, it must be me. I do see why there are more than one option out there. Everyone has something that works best for them. Good luck!
 
Bringing this to the top. Wife and I are building up an inventory in anticipation of selling pens, starting next week! Trying to get some other turnings to show but having to withdraw and regroup with some things for better turning.
Dave, good suggestion on the extra bottle of ultra-thin.
Edit- Can Tite-Bond Accelerant be used for GB? I still have some TB left.
 
On the question of non-wood blanks - short answer is it depends. On Alumilite blanks I always consider a coat or two of the orange bottle. It will bring out better color and vibrancy. On other commercial acrylic - I can usually polish it. As for deer antler (another nom-wood) I use GluBoost as my finish also.

Hope this helps.

Hey Mark, quick question for you about using GB on alumilite. I've been doing this, however, when I use just a couple of coats, I seem to sand through it, just a little, somewhere on each blank. I also haven't yet been able to figure out a way to apply just a couple of coats of thin (orange) without there being undulations or something in the surface that usually requires some kind of light sanding back, hence the reason I end up sanding at all and then sanding through.

I've been sanding the alumilite to about 400 or 600 grit....thinking I needed some scratches for the GB to bond to. I'm curious though, how you approach this, and whether you sand to a finer grit, or how you avoid sanding or polishing right through the GB. On my last several pens, I ended up having to turn the blanks a couple thousandths below the caliper diameter, then build back up a thicker coating of CA, to ensure that I could get a truly crystal clear glassy gloss super shiny finish (something that I've only been able to approach, but not 100% entirely achieve, when sanding raw alumilite up to about 20,000 grit or more using lapping pads and a lot of effort). Getting that super shiny glossy finish, which after wet sanding, polishing with HUT Ultra Gloss plastic polish (which brings out the majority of that brilliant gloss that GB is so good at), and finally buffing with blue rouge (eliminates the final bit of super fine scratches that show up in certain kinds of light, HUT just can't quite seem to entirely eliminate all of them), is CRYSTAL clear, hasn't quite seemed to be achievable yet, with just a couple of thin coats of GB. At some point or another, I seem to sand or polish right through somewhere. And its usually not a large defect...its always just large enough, that its unacceptable. 🤦‍♂️

The bummer so far has been, I end up using a fair bit more GB than I should be per pen, due to waste from the initial attempt at thinner coatings, and then having to use more to build up a thicker coating I could sand, polish and buff without concern of going entirely through the finish. Its sometimes a bit more frustrating even than finishing wood blanks, since with the wood, you actually get some penetration of the CA into the wood, and that seems to help in the long run.
 
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