Getting started

[WriteON]

I did some searching but not finding what I want to know. I'd like to try casting blanks. I'm not going to do a lot but will enjoy what turns out. I do not mind buying quality equipment but do not want to over spend. What do I need? P.Pot, compressor, etc. Thanks.

Does the resin have brutal order? Cold curing acrylic does.

 

[JohnU]

It's a broad subject with different answers based on what type of blanks you want to make. As for supplies needed, resin, mold, pressure tank and air compressor. Then if your color casting, you'll need micas or dyes. Here's a video I made on color casting that can give you an idea of what's involved. Beware…. It's a deep rabbit hole!

 

[WriteON]

It's a broad subject with different answers based on what type of blanks you want to make. As for supplies needed, resin, mold, pressure tank and air compressor. Then if your color casting, you'll need micas or dyes. Here's a video I made on color casting that can give you an idea of what's involved. Beware…. It's a deep rabbit hole!

I'll study your utube...thanks for posting it. For now clear material poured around 3/8th tubes... I'll decorate the tube. What pressure pot from where? Compressor from where. Best supplier.

Deep rabbit hole? I've been eating carrots since I got my first lathe.

 

[JohnU]

I really enjoy clear casting the most. I do all sorts but that's my favorite. The pot and compressor can range in price and size so it really comes down to the size needed and how much you want to spend. I use a 2.5 gal the most because my casting rack fits inside it for tube on vertical casting. I have California Air and Harbor freight tanks. I also have a California Air compressor because It's very quiet. ExoticBlanks.com carrie's that pressure pot and vertical casting racks and supplies for clear casting if you're interested in vertical casting. I like it because I can cast more at one time and the air moves up and away from the blanks easier and the vertical molds can handle higher pressure without leak risks with urethane resins. I like Alumilite clear and clear slow. I stay away from epoxy resin because it yellows quicker and is a softer resin so it doesn't polish up as easy. Plus it takes 7 + days to fully cure. But your resin choice may depend on what you're casting. I use Silmar 41 Polyester Resin for some things like snake skins, and Urethane resins for others like pine cones. Some just work better than others with different materials. Epoxy resins are usually thinner and can leak in some mold and also be harder to demold and eventually ruin some molds. Alumilite Clear Slow would be my suggestion for starting out. It gives you a 12 minute working time (approx) and demolds in about 3-1/2 hours.
Here's how I set up a blank to clear cast.

 

[jttheclockman]

I agree with all John said except I do not use any of the Alumilite stuff. I do use Silmar on some things but I will always use an epoxy resin on things like watch parts because I feel that epoxy resin sticks to just about anything and is thin enough to get easily into any nooks and crannies in time before the resin kicks. Epoxy is a slow setting resin and it does yellow over time but so does every other resin. Again a discussion that has been had here many times. For what we cast and how thin the blank becomes after it is turned you will not see the yellowing even after time sitting. My opinion. I use HF pot and have for over 15 years and keep my pressure to 50lbs for any casting and have no problems. I use my standard air compressor I use for nailing. You will need a good scale for measuring and they are cheap and can get anywhere. Resins can be bought from many vendors. Shop around. I too am into vertical casting. Much easier. Mixing cups are needed and if you plan to heat the resin to thin it then an old toaster oven works. You will need to watch the grade of plastic cups you use as well because some will melt fast and boy what a mess that becomes if you are heating. Don't ask how I know. Good luck and welcome to the world of casting.

 

[magpens]

I did some searching but not finding what I want to know. I'd like to try casting blanks. I'm not going to do a lot but will enjoy what turns out. I do not mind buying quality equipment but do not want to over spend. What do I need? P.Pot, compressor, etc. Thanks.

Does the resin have brutal order? Cold curing acrylic does.

What does this mean ? . . .
"Does the resin have brutal order? Cold curing acrylic does."

 

[WriteON]

What does this mean ? . . .
"Does the resin have brutal order? Cold curing acrylic does."

Odor…brutal odor. Thanks for questioning It. The computer spell checked it

 

[magpens]

Odor…brutal odor. Thanks for questioning It. The computer spell checked it

Ha, Ha ! ! ! . . . Thanks for clarifying ! !

 

[KMCloonan]

My wife is seriously sensitive to fumes/odors, so I have only used Alumilite clear Slow that John mentioned. It has no odor that I can detect.

The 12 minute working time depends a lot on your ambient temperature. I cast in my basement, and in the winter it's barely above 60F in my shop, and it takes quite a while for the resin to reach good temperature for mixing colors (above 95F). I have never needed to worry about getting everything done in 12 minutes. I thank John for that advice. Early on, I asked this forum which was more important - resin temperature or working time. John suggested focusing on the resin temperature. If you cast in a garage in Arizona or Texas in August, the 12 minute open time is probably pretty critical.