First try at table saw chevrons.

[KenB259]

Sierra super button click. Woods are maple, bloodwood, osage orange, santos rosewood and olive green vaneer. Chevrons have been a little elusive to me, finally came up with a method that works for me.

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[mark james]

Whatever techniques you tweaked, the results are great. Very nice. While there were many incremental issues to overcome, the most difficult for me was to get thiner slices.

Well done . Stay safe

 

[magpens]

Lovely looking result, Ken !!! . I love it !

Congratulations on your success !!!

 

[tseger]

Looks great, Ken!!!

 

[tseger]

Did you make the oak pen stand?
It really looks nice too!

 

[KenB259]

Whatever techniques you tweaked, the results are great. Very nice. While there were many incremental issues to overcome, the most difficult for me was to get thiner slices.

Well done [emoji122] . Stay safe [emoji40]

My method is just cutting infill, instead of gluing a lot of little strips together. I tried it before by gluing thin strips together and then cutting them again into strips at an angle. I was wasting a lot of material. I realized, while typing this, if I glued those thin strips offset a little every time, I would have very little waste.


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[KenB259]

Did you make the oak pen stand?
It really looks nice too!

Yes I make those. I have sold quite a few. I offer them to buyers at a little cheaper price if they buy a pen from me.


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[mark james]

Reply to post #6 above.

YES! SteveJ visited me a few years ago and gave me that suggestion. If I make a 1" (H) x 2" (W) x 6" (L) on the angle, I get 2-3 more pen materials (4 sided). It was a great suggestion (thanks, Steve).

Not to hijack your thread, but I'll attach pictures for those that are unsure of what we are chatting about.

(Gluing up the rectangular blocks leave the corner as waste (Pic 1 & 3). Gluing up blocks on an angle greatly reduces the waste... 2-3 more pens for each block).

 

[KenB259]

Reply to post #6 above.

YES! SteveJ visited me a few years ago and gave me that suggestion. If I make a 1" (H) x 2" (W) x 6" (L) on the angle, I get 2-3 more pen materials (4 sided). It was a great suggestion (thanks, Steve).

Not to hijack your thread, but I'll attach pictures for those that are unsure of what we are chatting about.

(Gluing up the rectangular blocks leave the corner as waste (Pic 1 & 3). Gluing up blocks on an angle greatly reduces the waste... 2-3 more pens for each block).

Yes that's exactly what I was thinking. Now my method only uses one pen blank and whatever I'm using as infill. Your method allows for more elaborate chevrons. Looks to me like there is a place for both methods.


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[mark james]

Yes that's exactly what I was thinking. Now my method only uses one pen blank and whatever I'm using as infill. Your method allows for more elaborate chevrons. Looks to me like there is a place for both methods.


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The more the merrier. Designs propagate more designs. Your recent jigs/blanks have me wishing to get back home to hide in the basement and play...

 

[leehljp]

Ken, It may be obvious to chevron makers but since I haven't started yet, . . . do you size your strips with a thickness planer? I can't see how it can be done without a thickness planer. Just curious.

 

[KenB259]

I just use my thin rip jig. Once I get it dialed in, usually only takes 2 or 3 adjustments, I'm good to go. On the pen I showed here, the maple was one pen blank, the blood wood was put in as infill, exactly as you would with a Celtic not. The blood wood is exactly, or actually slightly under my blade kerf, which is .102, the infill is .100 thick. Adding a bearing to my thin rip jig, suggested by John, increased the accuracy to a degree I wouldn't have believed possible.


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