Finaly Found My Finish

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VirgilJ

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Brooksville, Florida, USA.
I've been trying a variety of finishes looking for the one that suits me best. This pen is only my second try at a laquer finish and to me there is no doubt that this is the "one". IMHO nothing else has the depth and clarity of laquer. Laquer is definately the one for me!!



2007827145329_Laquer1.gif
 
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I'm using Deft thinnned about 20% and airbrushed.The airbrush puts on very thin coats so I'm using 4 coats. May change that as I gain more experience.

Another photo that shows the finish a little better.


200782715414_Laquer2.gif
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For those of you with more experience with laquer, I would be interested in learning your techniques.
 
I think you are correct in saying that there is nothing that has the depth and clarity of a lacquer finish.

The only problem with lacquer is using it too soon. Lacquer doesn't develop it's full hardness for several months. It can take that long for all of the thinners to evaporate. A good way to tell if it has cured is when all of the odor is gone. It is not unreasonable to give it a month before using the pen. Otherwise you will find that it abrades more easilly than lesser finishes and the original brilliance is quickly lost.

Beside being faster to apply, one of the endearing characteristics of the CA glue finish it reaches its full hardness faster. We can apply it today and use the pen the day after tomorrow. Done right, the CA finish will approach the lacquer in depth and clarity.
 
Hey, no politics in your props!!!!! [;)]

Nice work! I have been using rattle cans for my lacquer finishes; maybe I should learn to airbrush.

BTW, LISTEN to Russ. Lacquer takes time to fully cure.
 
Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />
Nice work! I have been using rattle cans for my lacquer finishes; maybe I should learn to airbrush.
Click to expand...

Cav,

You should definitely learn to airbrush. In addition to better performance, you will waste significantly less material.

If you don't have an airbrush, the HF airbrush, that typically goes on sale for $6, works just fine.



jeff
 
I will definately listen to Russ. I've read the laquer section on his website and he reccomends automotive laquer. Haven't been able to find any. Seems like everything is now base coat-clearcoat systems. Automotive laquer is a thing of the past. At least around here.

This pen has my first attempt at a laquer finish.


200782717639_Laquer3.gif
<br />
 
That looks excellent! Did you sand or micro mesh between coats and on the final coat? I love the smell of laquer but hate the CA smell. I'm sure those fumes are not helping what is left of my brain.- Chris
 
In my limited experience it's not necessary to sand between coats. The laquer isn't dry enough anyway for at least a week. I believe that laquer melts the coat below it when you apply the next one.

This pen has four coats of laquer, a week to cure, and a polishing with Hut plastic polish.
 
I am curious - what is the durability of (properly cured) lacquer compared to a CA finish?

The pen looks great! Your photo does an excellent job of showing the finish, as well.
 
I use a spray lacquer as well. No sanding in between. I generally put six coats on every fifteen minutes or so. After a week, I polish while on the lathe. It will cure faster than poly, and it can be sanded and repaired without having to sand to bare wood.

Rmartin
 
Another method you might find interesting is the "dip" method.

Basically you take an all-thread with some nuts and hang your blank in the all thread along with the bushings then dip it into a container filled with slightly thinned lacquer. Remove the blank and hang on a rack to dry, then reverse the blank and dip again. After three or four coats you have a very nice finish.

Lyle Walden uses this method and I have never seen a finish come close to his lacquer finish. He may have something written up on it. I tried it but will reserve the finish for those special pens and CA the rest![:D]
 
Thank you all for all the nice comments!

I will try dipping in laquer in the near future. I want to see which way works out best for me.

I also would like to avoid comparing finishing techniques. I personally haven't had consistant results with CA. I just don't seem to be able to get it on smooth enough. That's my fault not the fault of the finish.
All I can say is laquer has produced the best finish fo me. It is kind of a finicky pain in the rump finish, but I'm kind of a finicky pain in the rump old man so I guess it's a good match.
 
Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />I think you are correct in saying that there is nothing that has the depth and clarity of a lacquer finish.

The only problem with lacquer is using it too soon. Lacquer doesn't develop it's full hardness for several months. It can take that long for all of the thinners to evaporate. A good way to tell if it has cured is when all of the odor is gone. It is not unreasonable to give it a month before using the pen. Otherwise you will find that it abrades more easilly than lesser finishes and the original brilliance is quickly lost.

Beside being faster to apply, one of the endearing characteristics of the CA glue finish it reaches its full hardness faster. We can apply it today and use the pen the day after tomorrow. Done right, the CA finish will approach the lacquer in depth and clarity.
Click to expand...

Russ is right about lacquer. I have spray thousands of gallons of the stuff (sorry ozone layer!) on cabinets.

However, there is one VERY EASY way to get around that wait. Buy "precatalyzed" lacquer. NOT HARD TO FIND. Call Sherwin Williams (ask for a gallon of "sherwood" precat lacquer) or even hardwood distributors. Any hardwood distributor that sells wood finishing products will have precat lacquer. Precat lacquer has a crosslinking agent (the catalyst) that hardens the lacquer. You should be able to buff the pen in 24 hours rather than a week. The other plus: no sanding sealer needed. It hardens enough to sand just fine and is more durable than sanding sealer as a basecoat anyhow. THE ONE DOWNSIDE (other than cost) is that precat lacquers have typically a 120 day shelf life, and most of us won't use a gallon of lacquer spraying pens. It does work great for spraying bowls, bookshelves, and any other woodworking.
 
From the Sherwin Williams website.

S H E R - W O O D® L A C Q U E R ( P R E - C A T A L Y Z E D ) T 7 7 F 3 7
A fast-drying, high-performance conversion lacquer for the general wood finishing market. It offers the best durability for a lacquer product. After catalyzation, it provides <b>6 months </b>pot life as a pre-cat lacquer.
 
My .02...

Lacquer is the best look for my money. I don't mind the wait, the results are worth it. I've tried Enduro, but seem to have a challenge getting a smooth cover, and seem to MM through the low spots quite easily. I like the speed and no smell of Enduro, but the sanding through is killing me. I can't get that nice deep look with Enduro.
 
Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />From the Sherwin Williams website.

S H E R - W O O D® L A C Q U E R ( P R E - C A T A L Y Z E D ) T 7 7 F 3 7
A fast-drying, high-performance conversion lacquer for the general wood finishing market. It offers the best durability for a lacquer product. After catalyzation, it provides <b>6 months </b>pot life as a pre-cat lacquer.
Click to expand...


Thanks Lou- our local Sherwin Williams informed us originally of a 4-month (120 day) shelf life, they apparently changed it.
Sherwood is a good product. Stinks a tad more than regular lacquer, but only when spraying and still wet.
 
For those of you that dip in lacquer, Does the thickness after drying have an effect on whether the pen is proud or do you compensate for it when turning?
 
When you spray, are the blanks still mounted on the mandrel? How much time in between coats?
 
Is there a tutorial on dipping? So you are supposed to keep the bushing on when doing so? The biggest issue I have with a CA finish right now is getting separation when removing the bushings. It seems to me that dipping would create the same issue. How long do you wait between dips?
 
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