Enduro Test

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Old Griz

Passed Away Oct 4, 2013
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Ok, went out and finish sanded my Enduro test this morning...
I want the thank ObiWan Wayne for his insite on this finish and his time on the phone answering my dumb questions..;)
I turned a piece of fairly plain walnut that I had and sanded it to 1200 grit. I did not fill the pores or use BLO as I usually would with walnut. I wanted to see what the finish would do as is.. I usually do not like most walnut for pens as I find it plain looking... I use a lot of it for scroll saw work, however.
After sanding and removing the sanding dust with some DNA, I put 3 thick coats of Enduro Sealer on one side and the same amount of Cellulose Sanding sealer on the other... I let them dry overnight and dry sanded to 8000 MicroMesh (Wayne suggests 12000, but I could not find my 12000 piece [:p]). I then applied the same amount of Enduro Gloss Poly to both sides and let dry overnight and sanded as I did the sealers. The pic below shows the results.. The side with the Enduro sealer has a brighter and clearer finish than the side with the Cellulose sealer, but I would not throw out either finish.. If anything the side with the cellulose might be just a tad bit less glossy, and that could probably be fixed if I had sanded to 12000 MM.
All in all, I would say that the side with all Enduro has a magnifying effect that the other does not... I think I might attribute this to the fact that cellulose sealer is not as clear as the enduro.
I did a fingernail dent test on both sides and could dent the finish, with some effort... but then again any poly or lacquer finish needs to cure. I would not wait to assemble this if it were a pen blank.. but I would wait a couple of more days before adding it to stock or selling it.
This is a finish that is definately going to be added to my arsenal.

2005614123718_EnduroTest.jpg
 
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Cool, thanks for the update Tom!

I've been thinking of trying the Enduro finish for some time now, just haven't had the time to get to it yet.

Ryan
 
Tom, great comparison and thanks for posting the results. I have received my order of Enduro and am working to try it out. I hope my results are the same (if not better[:p]).

Dale
 
[:D] Thanks Tom!!! That is a good report!
I ordered the 'introductory' kit last Friday, I think I made the right move.

How did you apply the gloss coat? Spinning? Brush? Spray?
When you sanded to 8000, anything else? TSW? REN?

Thanks!
 
It was applied with a Viva paper towel with the lathe at the slowest speed. On the test, nothing was put on as an overcoat, but I would probably do a coat of Ren wax as a protectant from fingerprints... if you do decide to use TSW make sure you wait an additional day or two to let the poly cure more.. TSW has some poly in it and may soften into the Enduro. Or at least that is what ObiWayne said.. [:p]
 
Enduro has a nice starter set for $25 that includes a quart each of sealer and gloss and two 3M sanding pads..
The finish takes 2 days... you put on the sealer and let it dry overnight then dry sand to 12000MM, then you put on the gloss and do the same.. it is well worth the time.
You can put on 2 coats of sealer in about 15 min and the same with the gloss.. you do not have to sand between coats.. just wait until it is dry to the touch and put the next coat on... Wayne told me to put them on fairly thick.. you will notice that the coat is milky, but it dries water clear...
I use a rack (see pic) for my blanks when I do a production run... I will be using the same rack for my Enduro finish... that way I don't need to tie up mandrels and bushings while the finish is curing.
200561414738_AssemblyStand.jpg
 
I'm a cheapskate. I made my racks with wooden dowels. For Enduro drying, I have one rack for sanding sealer and one for the poly since I tend to forget which pen has what one it! [:I]
 
GEEZ Guys, how cheap can you be... I think I have about $3.00 invested in that rack... all in the hardware... the wood was shop scrap....
 
How cheap? Wood that was given to me for a base, less than a dollar for the dowell, and I drove the pieces of dowell into the holes I drilled to save that expensive glue! [:D]
 
enough of the cheap rack talk. could endanger your lives if your significant others find out what your conversing about. [:p]

BTW thanks for the ideas on getting myself a cheap rack.
 
I have been trying the enduro and have had problems with it being too thin. Using paper towels (brawny I think), I can't smooth it out without making it thin, even if touching the pen lightly. If I put too much on, then the finish gets big rings of enduro. I tried using a brush and doing 3 coats with brush and 3 coats (6 total) with paper towel, ending up with halfway decent finish that didn't get sanded through when I smoothed and polished at end (lightly lightly touching with 600 to smooth, then MM up through 12000).

Any additional suggestions on getting a thick coat on?
 
Clayton, the Viva paper towels have a feel like a flannel shirt, I really think that makes a big difference in applying the finish... I basically just let the paper towel barely touch the blank and drip the Enduro at the junction of the towel and blank and move it back and forth... IT you have your fingers under the towel supporting the blank, you WILL NOT get a thick finish... I fold the towel so it is about 8 plies thick... this gives it some support when wet...
I spoke to Wayne about the rings and even he gets them occassionally, but probably a lot less than you or I will... there were some small ring lines when mine dried and I just started sanded with the coursest MM and went from there to the end... IF you are getting heavy ridges, the lathe speed may be too high when you are applying the finish...
I have a Jet1236 and found out that I can lower the speed below the bottom notch... I just pull the handle down until it stops and then have a little wire catch that holds it in place... it slows the lathe down real nice for applying finish.... If the lathe is spinning too fast, it is very easy to get ridges on a thick coat of finish
 
You do not have to put the sanding sealer and Enduro on real thick but you do have to sand with lighter grades of MM and be carefull of how long you sand with each grit. There are some woods that I prefer a lighter coat so it does not have the depth, like some of the plain grains. If its a burl then I prefer as much depth as I can get which means thicker coats. When I put on the coats thick I bearly touch the pad to the blank and I do believe that the brand of towell makes a large difference. Like Griz says, Viva is rather like flannel so its so easy to just let it glide across. The other trick to learn is what grade of MM to start out with and how long to sand with each grade. I think the tendence is to sand to long with each grade and end up sanding through to the wood.

I have not put thins in my article yet but if you are turning an oily wood then you can still use Enduro. Instead of using the sanding sealer that cane with the Enduro use a lacqure based sanding sealer like the product that Mylands sells. Everything else is done the same way, just switching sanding sealers is all you need to do.

Wayne
 
Griz, your results are undeniable. Beautiful. But, for impatient me, the time factor is a hang-up. I don't do production runs for pens. But the results are compelling. I might just be readjusting my thinking. Unfortunately, though, I won't be making any more pens. I have killed myself in a fit of jealousy over Eagle's ever-more innovative and creative pens. [;)]
 
Originally posted by Rifleman
I won't be making any more pens. I have killed myself in a fit of jealousy over Eagle's ever-more innovative and creative pens. [;)]
Click to expand...
Please arrange for the executor of your will to contact me about the transfer of your pen turning materials... I will assure that they are properly distributed to the members of this forum (AFTER, I get the good stuff [}:)][:p])
 
Speaking from the grave. [}:)] I ditto your favoring Viva paper towels. I use them to apply Johnson's paste wax but use cloth to apply my other finishes. Question, Griz, since the Enduro takes so long to dry, how do you transfer the sticky blanks from the mandrel to your very expensive drying rack without leaving finger prints in the finish?
 
Wayne, Griz, thanks. The results are indisputable. I may have to set my stubborn ways aside and give Enduro a try, maybe even Micro Mesh. Even though the MM prices still seem very steep to me. I'll have to re-read Daniel's long dissertation again before deciding. If y'all should hear some loud, painful screaming coming from Arkansas way, it will be me parting with a dollar.
 
[}:)][:p][}:)]Frank, please don't take offense, BUT...
You are tighter than a clam's butt and that's waterproof.. [:p][:p][:p]
Only Joking Buddy..
 
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