EEE and BLO/CA

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Well, that's my method now since I've got the CA finish semi understood. I do the EEE after my last MM, then the BLO/CA, then I hit it with MM one last time. The finish has been coming out really nice, although I'm not sure the final MM is needed.

Bob
 
I don't know if EEE will interfere with CA or not, but I don't use EEE prior to CA. I wouldn't think the wax binder in the EEE is good for CA adhesion to the wood.
 
If it works for you, that is great. I personally would not have tried it that way because that is adding a layer of WAX before the finish. Generally, finish doesn't stick well or long term over waxes, but then CA is not an ordinary finish.

Question: What is the purpose of adding EEE before CA?
 
Hank,

I tried to sand to "just 400" and then used EEE to eliminate scratches. It did!

I am concerned about the wax in EEE interfering with adherence of the CA. I wiped with mineral spirits and alcohol before applying the BLO/CA. It looks OK, but how well will it wear?

Larry
 
Since I started using the Ultrashine EEE it just seems to bring out the richness of the wood, at least IMO, but then again, I'm easily impressed :) I do MM after taking it to 600 wetsanding, so I dont know how much "finer" scratch removal it is actually doing, it's just been my standard practice and I figure if it aint broke, dont fix it. Besides, I'm just killing time when I make them anyway, so the added time consumed doing it is a bonus.
 
Since I started using the Ultrashine EEE it just seems to bring out the richness of the wood, at least IMO, but then again, I'm easily impressed :) I do MM after taking it to 600 wetsanding, so I dont know how much "finer" scratch removal it is actually doing, it's just been my standard practice and I figure if it aint broke, dont fix it. Besides, I'm just killing time when I make them anyway, so the added time consumed doing it is a bonus.

I make pens like you do - as my creative outlet, for relaxation and to consume time. :biggrin:

AS to "bring out the richness of the wood", that is also referred to as "popping the grain" and some people, including me, use BLO for that. One thing that I do is after popping the grain - while the blank is turning on the lathe, I use a folded paper towel and let friction heat it up a fair amount. This helps the BLO cure/dry and the rest of the oiliness is wicked by paper towel. I personally have not had a problem with CA adhering to this.

Please note that this is not the same as using BLO as a mild catalyst for CA applications.
 
bdonald said:
I do the EEE after my last MM,
Using EEE after 12000 micromesh is going backwards with regards to grit sizes. But, if it works for you that is all that matters.

I do MM after taking it to 600 wetsanding
My experience with wetsanding wood is the water raises the grain and makes the wood swell a little. But, once again, do what works and if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Using EEE after 12000 micromesh is going backwards with regards to grit sizes. But, if it works for you that is all that matters.


My experience with wetsanding wood is the water raises the grain and makes the wood swell a little. But, once again, do what works and if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Well, I will do some comparisons on my next batch of pens and see. As I said, this is all going off of my perception, I have no experience in this stuff so my ignorance is bliss :) I'm just going through the motions that I use, and keep learning every day reading the forums here. Thanks for the info.
 
I make pens like you do - as my creative outlet, for relaxation and to consume time. :biggrin:

AS to "bring out the richness of the wood", that is also referred to as "popping the grain" and some people, including me, use BLO for that. One thing that I do is after popping the grain - while the blank is turning on the lathe, I use a folded paper towel and let friction heat it up a fair amount. This helps the BLO cure/dry and the rest of the oiliness is wicked by paper towel. I personally have not had a problem with CA adhering to this.

Please note that this is not the same as using BLO as a mild catalyst for CA applications.

Ok, so I should hit it with a BLO before doing the BLO/CA finish? Maybe go from MM to BLO to CA? Thanks for the input!
 
Back to old method

I tried EEE after sanding with 400 omitting the longitudinal sanding. The circular scratches were very visible with magnification. I guess I can't get away being lazy.

I have reverted to sanding to 400 with longitudinal sanding after each grit; continuing with 600, 800, 1200, and 2000 (circular only); burnish with brown paper; alcohol wipe.

I used BLO alone to "pop the grain" as suggested by Hank and then continued with BLO/CA. Looks good.

Larry
 
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