Drill press advice

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secureideas

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Feb 21, 2020
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Hello all,

I have right I believe is probably a stupid question. I have a PORTER-CABLE 8-Amp 12-Speed Floor Drill Press that I bought last year (I think, it may have been early this year) to drill pen blanks and various random projects. When I purchased this press, I looked for the longest travel I could get for a reasonable price. But I am having troubles with it, that I am sure could just be me being an idiot. My hope is that either someone can point me in the right direction OR recommend a better drill press as I have read some things being an issue with this one.

So my first problem is the drill seems to struggle in drilling. The wood will catch or such and prevent the bit from spinning. Additionally when I first turn it on, the bit doesn't spin at all for a few seconds. It is as if the belts are slipping. I have replaced bits for brand new ones thinking maybe they were dull. This happens in all types of wood and resin. I do clear the bit as I am drilling.

The second problem, which is probably related to the first, is that the arbor falls out periodically. I think it is slipping because of the wood catching, but not sure so I thought I should mention it.

It is pretty irritating as I watch other use their drill presses and they seem to be able to easily drill into what ever they need. All I want is a drill press that can handle pen blanks and other randomness. Nothing fancy here but I would like at least 4" of travel for the larger blanks.

Help?!? <grin> And thanks in advance.
Kevin
 
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secureideas

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And to add to the issues which are irritating me, the laser cross hairs won't come on any longer. This is not really important, just making me pissy. :)
 

monophoto

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I've also had the problem that the JT33 taper between the DP and the chuck lets go and the chuck drops to the floor - always landing on my foot, of course. I don't know if there is a good solution, but wiping the taper with a gray Scotchbrite and then whacking back in place with a piece of 2x4 sometimes works - for a while.
 

jttheclockman

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So many things come to mind. But first and foremost if you bought new then it is still under warrenty and would look into getting it serviced. But things you can do. Lets address the chuck falling out. It should have a morse taper setup. If so you need to clean the male and female parts and to do this is to wipe with acetone to get rid of any grease. Rub your finger on both parts to see if there are any burrs. If so file off and sand clean. Next if all is good. Insert the chuck as far as you can and then lower table so that you can swing a hammer under chuck. Use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and regular hammer and hit dead center of chuck with the chuck opened all the way. You do not want to hammer on the ways of the chuck. that should seat it. Give it a good wack.

Next the starting thing. Not sure if this is a soft start drill press because you did not supply the model number. But just like many routers they are set up to do a soft start up which gives time to get fingers out of way and also does not jerk your work piece. Some drill presses are this way also. also you have 12 speed which I assume is belt driven so make sure you are set up on the correct belt configuration for the bits and material you are drilling. Also make sure the voltage is correct. If it is a duel voltage make sure it is wired to what you have plugged into and again I pressume 120 volts. Do not use long extension chords on motors. That is a no no. especially if using undersized wire chords like #14.

As far a drill you need to keep swarf cleared from hole. Need to keep bits cool and you need to control advancement by not pushing so hard. Let the bit do the work.
 

secureideas

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So many things come to mind. But first and foremost if you bought new then it is still under warrenty and would look into getting it serviced. But things you can do. Lets address the chuck falling out. It should have a morse taper setup. If so you need to clean the male and female parts and to do this is to wipe with acetone to get rid of any grease. Rub your finger on both parts to see if there are any burrs. If so file off and sand clean. Next if all is good. Insert the chuck as far as you can and then lower table so that you can swing a hammer under chuck. Use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and regular hammer and hit dead center of chuck with the chuck opened all the way. You do not want to hammer on the ways of the chuck. that should seat it. Give it a good wack.
Thanks. I will do this tonight or tomorrow. I cleaned it to clear any debris, but not for grease.

Next the starting thing. Not sure if this is a soft start drill press because you did not supply the model number. But just like many routers they are set up to do a soft start up which gives time to get fingers out of way and also does not jerk your work piece. Some drill presses are this way also. also you have 12 speed which I assume is belt driven so make sure you are set up on the correct belt configuration for the bits and material you are drilling
I didn't think about the soft start. It is model PCB660DP but I can't find a feature list in a quick search. I will look further.

Also make sure the voltage is correct. If it is a duel voltage make sure it is wired to what you have plugged into and again I pressume 120 volts. Do not use long extension chords on motors. That is a no no. especially if using undersized wire chords like #14.

Yup to the no extension cords. I actually had extra breakers and outlets added to prevent them.
As far a drill you need to keep swarf cleared from hole. Need to keep bits cool and you need to control advancement by not pushing so hard. Let the bit do the work.

Thanks for the help
 

Woodchipper

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Acetone will remove the lubrication, inviting rust. I wipe my tapers but make sure they have a light coat of WD-40. Same on tool tapers.
secureideas, my father always said the only stupid question was the one not asked. I have learned a lot from this forum by asking questions.
 

KenB259

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Acetone will remove the lubrication, inviting rust. I wipe my tapers but make sure they have a light coat of WD-40. Same on tool tapers.
secureideas, my father always said the only stupid question was the one not asked. I have learned a lot from this forum by asking questions.
Sorry but I have to disagree, morse tapers should not be lubricated. They are not supposed to move and I have never had one rust ever.
 

jttheclockman

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Looked up your drill press and here is a link to a video. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...F40CB63D9ADCD3315B13F40&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

To again address your concerns. It is not a soft start motor so that is out. As far as bits slipping could be you do not have the pulleys locked down on both sides. Video shows how to do that. The lasers could be a bad switch. Or there could be a loose wire inside somewhere which can cause both no laser and maybe the reason the motor takes time to start up. I would look for loose connections. It is a 120 volt motor so the theory of wrong wiring is out. If it were mine I would do a little troubleshooting and then call porta cable and see what they say. Good luck.
 

Woodchipper

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Sorry but I have to disagree, morse tapers should not be lubricated. They are not supposed to move and I have never had one rust ever.
Very light coat... tapers wiped and/or cleaned frequently. I understand what you are saying. I'm not one to soak with lube as some tend to do.
 

KenB259

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Very light coat... tapers wiped and/or cleaned frequently. I understand what you are saying. I'm not one to soak with lube as some tend to do.
Still wrong, morse taper, no oil, no grease, no dirt, no gunk. Any morse taper I've ever installed implicitly states from the manufacturer to make sure they are completely free from all the above mentioned before installing. My chucks don't fall out while I'm drilling. It's your drill press though, do as you want.
 
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