Disc sanders, and changing the sandpaper.

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KenB259

KenB259

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Is there a trick for this. Seriously, I absolutely hate this chore. The adhesive never ever comes off with the sanding disc and the adhesive sticks tight go the metal disc. So, I peel off as much as I can. I have tried heating it a bit With a heat gun, doesn't seem to help much. I end up using acetone with a scotch brite pad. Takes forever. It's not like I'm using cheap low quality disc, the ones I have are from Kingspor. So any tricks for this?


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KenB259 said:
Is there a trick for this. Seriously, I absolutely hate this chore. The adhesive never ever comes off with the sanding disc and the adhesive sticks tight go the metal disc. So, I peel off as much as I can. I have tried heating it a bit With a heat gun, doesn't seem to help much. I end up using acetone with a scotch brite pad. Takes forever. It's not like I'm using cheap low quality disc, the ones I have are from Kingspor. So any tricks for this?


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Click to expand...
Hi Ken,

I had the same issue so I "fixed" it but buying a proper size velcro pad to glue to the machine metal surface and then use the velcro backed sanding discs to go with the base, this means that the sticky-backed discs you have in stock will not be suitable to be used on the velcro.

Works for me.

Cheers
George
 
robutacion said:
Hi Ken,

I had the same issue so I "fixed" it but buying a proper size velcro pad to glue to the machine metal surface and then use the velcro backed sanding discs to go with the base, this means that the sticky-backed discs you have in stock will not be suitable to be used on the velcro.

Works for me.

Cheers
George
Click to expand...

Might do that down the road but I still have quite a few adhesive backed pads. I also wonder if the Velcro ones have to much cushion. Has that been an issue at all ?


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I used white spirit ( petroleum based solvent like turps) to clean the residue off mine Ken but I agree it's a total pain. On the big 12" disc sander I intend to upgrade to velcro backed but only when I've used up the 12" discs I have already . With a cleaning stick they do seem to be lasting well though.
 
howsitwork said:
I used white spirit ( petroleum based solvent like turps) to clean the residue off mine Ken but I agree it's a total pain. On the big 12" disc sander I intend to upgrade to velcro backed but only when I've used up the 12" discs I have already . With a cleaning stick they do seem to be lasting well though.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have quite a few too to use up. Thankfully, my discs last probably 4 to 6 months as I don't use it on a daily basis. But doesn't make the job easier. Does the turpentine work better than acetone? I also use a cleaning stick regularly.


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Never tried acetone I'm afraid and current disc is in good nick so unlikely to need removing soon.

I just found turps or white spirit more efficient than say methylated spirit to remove label glue which is similar to the disc glue.
 
Lacquer thinner is my go to for these type of adhesives.
Use with ventilation and move the used paper towels/rags outside to dry as they will stink up your shop big time.....plus the fumes are not good for you either.

Also, if considering going the Velcro route, make sure there is enough clearance between the disc and the table for the additional thickness.
 
Charlie_W said:
Lacquer thinner is my go to for these type of adhesives.
Use with ventilation and move the used paper towels/rags outside to dry as they will stink up your shop big time.....plus the fumes are not good for you either.

Also, if considering going the Velcro route, make sure there is enough clearance between the disc and the table for the additional thickness.
Click to expand...

Yes , I don't have a lot of clearance so Velcro may not be an solution.


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KenB259 said:
Might do that down the road but I still have quite a few adhesive backed pads. I also wonder if the Velcro ones have to much cushion. Has that been an issue at all ?


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Click to expand...
I had the same concerns but it didn't seem to be an issue.

PS: One of the ways I remove the glue from the metal is to wet it with acetone and then use a sharp scraper to remove most of it, the rest will come out with a wet rag and acetone.

Cheers
George
 
I use BBQ lighter fluid. Melts the glue and slow evaporation time so glue stays removable with a rag. Wipe down afterwards with acetone to make sure it is clean before applying next disc.

Jay
 
howsitwork said:
I used white spirit ( petroleum based solvent like turps) to clean the residue off mine Ken but I agree it's a total pain. On the big 12" disc sander I intend to upgrade to velcro backed but only when I've used up the 12" discs I have already . With a cleaning stick they do seem to be lasting well though.
Click to expand...
I have a 12 inch disc sander and would love to change it out to velcro, but I never thought about it until you mentioned it.
WHERE to find a conversion to Hook&Loop? Have you already researched it?
 
leehljp said:
I have a 12 inch disc sander and would love to change it out to velcro, but I never thought about it until you mentioned it.
WHERE to find a conversion to Hook&Loop? Have you already researched it?
Click to expand...

Lee, I just looked at Industrial Abrasives and found this.
IMG_0233.JPG



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Basically any place you buy bulk sandpaper will have the conversion pad. Here is my thoughts because I do much more woodworking than just pens so I found different applications a must. First and foremost these are MY OPINIONS . But when doing pens (lets start there) I never use hook and loop. I always will use adhesive backed paper because it is flatter and will not wrap around the blank as you trim it back. With hook and loop it is too soft and will sand the corners down as well as the flats. This will throw off the fit if you are picky like I am. For this I have a flat plate disc that I attach sandpaper to, right on the lathe.

Next I have a couple disc / belt sanders. I have a 12" disc sander that I use sticky back adhesive paper because I do not find myself changing between grits very often and again like the flatness. Now I have a small table top Delta 6" disc sander and belt. and on this I use hook and loop because I am always changing grits and use this for my scrollsaw work.

My suggestion if you use the disc sander for other things than pens than I suggest switching to hook and loop. If using for pens than stay with adhesive. To get adhesive off I use acetone. Never had a problem getting adhesive off.
 
KenB259 said:
Is there a trick for this. Seriously, I absolutely hate this chore. The adhesive never ever comes off with the sanding disc and the adhesive sticks tight go the metal disc. So, I peel off as much as I can. I have tried heating it a bit With a heat gun, doesn't seem to help much. I end up using acetone with a scotch brite pad. Takes forever. It's not like I'm using cheap low quality disc, the ones I have are from Kingspor. So any tricks for this?


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Click to expand...
I have found over the years that golf grip solvent works really well...
www.golfworks.com

The Golfworks Grip Solvent

This economical solvent activates all solvent-activated tapes.
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com
 
Last edited:
Chiming in to reinforce what Jay said along with some of the other comments. Most adhesives like those used on sanding discs are more easily removed with a petroleum distillate type solvent, goo-gone, mineral spirits, turps, etc. Then follow up with a non-petroleum solvent like Acetone or Denatured Alcohol to remove any resedue or oily film left behind from the previous solvent. This has worked for me for many years. - Dave
 
In my workshop to remove adhesives normally the application of heat with a hot gun helps a lot. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) removes glue residues easily. Don't forget to wear gloves, IPA dehydrates and damages the skin and can cause itching and other problems.
 
I think, from what I surmise, I have been using the wrong type of solvent. Can't believe I'm saying this, but I can't wait until my disc wears out to try it out.😬
 
I always loved the Norton brand of sandpaper and I really do not have a problem with adhesive sticking to wheel after I remove. I pull the disc off slowly and most comes off and then wipe down with acetone.
 
I had same issues with removing the sand paper I got some goof off and it takes the adhesive off fast. then I use acetone to clean it. Has been a lot easier And faster then scraping it


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robutacion said:
Hi Ken,

I had the same issue so I "fixed" it but buying a proper size velcro pad to glue to the machine metal surface and then use the velcro backed sanding discs to go with the base, this means that the sticky-backed discs you have in stock will not be suitable to be used on the velcro.

Works for me.

Cheers
George
Click to expand...
Where please George. MLMAYO2@VERIZON.NET. Thanks
 
robutacion said:
There are no secrets as to where I purchased these velcro pads from, I'm in Australia so my go-to place for sanding papers is The Sand PaperMan the bigger round discs are towards the bottom of the page.

Good luck,

Cheers
George
Click to expand...
I don't know what is will cost when said and done, but I'm buying some later today. I am very tired of struggling to remove the paper and then the residue. For flushing up pen tubes, this will be a real time and frustration saver.

Thanks a 10^6

Mark
 
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