CSUSA peppermills

[Mikey]

I was thinking about getting a few of the Premium peppermills from CSUSA. I was wondering if anyone else has tried these out, and if so, how do you like them? I have never made a peppermill before and am a bit worried I will screw it up. (Although I don't know how since I keep making pens that are much smaller and need better tolerances)

Also, I was wondering if there may be a bunch of people who would want to order some mills to try and get an additional discount. Even if you order a handful, the discount could pay for shipping costs.

Thanks guys,
Mike

 

[Ptolemy]

So, it looks like they have a deluxe mechanism and a premium mechanism now. They are the same price from what I can see and if the diagrams are accurate the grinder is different but the parts for assembly are identical. I use the deluxe mechanism for my peppermills and enjoy them. You have to pay very close attention to size as there is little room for error. People use the crush grinder to avoid this, I just like the look of these better.

One other tip I can offer with these mechanisms is grind down the edges of the top two inches of the post a bit. This allows for the top to slide on and off more easily. My early mills the fit was way too tight after the wood settled.

I think I still have a photo in my album from one of my first mills.

Overall, I recommend them.

 

[winpooh498]

I use the "Deluxe" Salt and Pepper mills from CSUSA. I really like them. I don't like their cheaper ones, though. Ed Brown "ED4Copies" made a really good tutorial for making pepper mills.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26182&SearchTerms=pepper,mill,tutorial

Hope this helps

 

[TellicoTurning]

Hey Mike,
I don't use the "Deluxe" mills, but I like the crush/grind mechanism... I find them more forgiving if you have any measurement challenges .. (sometimes I will cut something, measure it again, cut it again and it's still too short.. [:I][:I][:I][)])

 

[Woodlvr]

Chuck are we related?[:I] Maybe we both need tead that magic book, Measure Twice, Cut Once. I always seem to get the two confused, I am a blonde after all.

Mike

 

[TellicoTurning]

Mike
Funny, I'm a blonde too.. do you think it has a relevance??

 

[jenamison]

Hey Chuck, I am new to this pepper mill stuff and I see you like the crush/grind mechanisms but don't use the "deluxe" mechanisms. Sorry to be so ignorant, but what is the difference in these two devices? Where do you get your mechanisms? Thanks for your patience.

Mike
amisoncollectibles@comcast.net

 

[toolcrazy]

Originally posted by jenamison

Hey Chuck, I am new to this pepper mill stuff and I see you like the crush/grind mechanisms but don't use the "deluxe" mechanisms. Sorry to be so ignorant, but what is the difference in these two devices? Where do you get your mechanisms? Thanks for your patience.

Mike
amisoncollectibles@comcast.net

I know, I'm not chuck but.........
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...xe_Pepper_Mill_Mechanism___dlx_pep_mill?Args=
I bought some of the deluxe kits from ed cheaper than what csusa sells them for.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...__Crush_Grinder_Mechanism___crush_grind?Args=

 

[Woodlvr]

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

 

[toolcrazy]

Originally posted by Woodlvr

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

Your very welcome. I think the hardest part of mills is the 1 1/16" forstner bit and deciding what blanks that are food safe. And I'm at the blanks stage.

 

[TellicoTurning]

Mike,
I didnt't see your post earlier... I use the crush/grind because they don't require the knurl knob on the top of the peppermill.. also you have a little more leeway in the length of the bodies... the shaft on the crush/grinds are about 10", so you are limited if you want to make big peppermills, but I only use a Jet mini and about 11 inches is max I can do on the body anyway. The grind mechanism is ceramic and supposed to be better. And they leave a lot of room for innovative designs.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by toolcrazy

Originally posted by Woodlvr

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

Your very welcome. I think the hardest part of mills is the 1 1/16" forstner bit and deciding what blanks that are food safe. And I'm at the blanks stage.

Are you trying to get me going on the weirdo drill bit size rant? [}] I gave away a pepper mil kit just because I wouldn't give in and buy the weirdo forstner bit. BTW, I doubt you have to worry about the food safety issue with something like this. But, that's only IMHO.

 

[Draken]

Originally posted by toolcrazy

Originally posted by Woodlvr

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

Your very welcome. I think the hardest part of mills is the 1 1/16" forstner bit and deciding what blanks that are food safe. And I'm at the blanks stage.

For the crush grind I made, I used a 1" spade bit, and it fit perfectly. Also, there is a current CSUSA group buy open for another day to so, and I've already ordered 2 crush grind mechanisms, so it is at the 10% discount. If a few more jump in, then it would go to the max 15%.

 

[TellicoTurning]

Originally posted by Draken

Originally posted by toolcrazy

Originally posted by Woodlvr

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

Your very welcome. I think the hardest part of mills is the 1 1/16" forstner bit and deciding what blanks that are food safe. And I'm at the blanks stage.

For the crush grind I made, I used a 1" spade bit, and it fit perfectly. Also, there is a current CSUSA group buy open for another day to so, and I've already ordered 2 crush grind mechanisms, so it is at the 10% discount. If a few more jump in, then it would go to the max 15%.

Frank is correct on the food safe... but to be safe, one some woods, namely those with spalting, I will spray a sealer inside the mill.. usually a varethane or something like that... you have to let them sit for a while to let the sealer cure and the smell to disapate.. on the 1 1/16 drill bit, I bought the bit because I make lots of mills, but have also used a 1 1/8 forstner or spade bit and works just as well... I like the forstner because it makes a cleaner hole.. just wish the bit were a little longer. I've used mine so much that I can't keep it sharpen now... probably will have to replace it soon, or go exclusive to spade pit.

One caution, clear your drill bit often or you will get lots of smoke as the bit heats up... also will scorch the wood (DAMHIKT)

I was using a spade bit on a piece of Honduras Rosewood and didn't clear the bit soon enough... twisted the bit right out of the Jacobs... do you know how hard it is to get a jammed spade bit that is buried 5 1/2 inches into a piece of wood out?[|)][xx(]

 

[toolcrazy]

Originally posted by ozmandus

Mike,
I didnt't see your post earlier... I use the crush/grind because they don't require the knurl knob on the top of the peppermill.. also you have a little more leeway in the length of the bodies... the shaft on the crush/grinds are about 10", so you are limited if you want to make big peppermills, but I only use a Jet mini and about 11 inches is max I can do on the body anyway. The grind mechanism is ceramic and supposed to be better. And they leave a lot of room for innovative designs.

My kits can make mills up to 14". But that is a limit.

 

[byounghusband]

I have done two of the Crush-Grind grinders.... They seem to have much more design flexability since there is no metal ball at the top of the mechanism and the shaft CAN be cut down.

I had the mechanisms for over a year as I was searching for the specified "Off-Size" bits to bore with. I finally bit the bullet and bought them from Grizzly along with a 6" extender. I think it was around $50 for the 4 bits and extender. If I make one Pepper and Salt Grinder set, they will be paid for.

I had two 3.5"x3.5"x12" English Claro Walnut blanks that I bought specifically for them.
turning them was really pretty easy. Just take your time boring the blanks. I made a depth guage out of a popsicle stick to measure the holes being bored.

I have a question concerning the depth of the holes that are bored. The first hole, 1-3/4" in diameter is 1" deep. I wonder why SO deep, as the mechanism goes all the way up to that point. Seems to be a waste to drill it up THAT far... I ended up cutting two inches off one of the shafts due to the length of the finished body (Jet 1014 limitiation), so the dpeth is NOT a huge issue......

 

[byounghusband]

I just got off the phone with CSUSA and they are going to revise the Crush-Grind instructions based on my question above. There was a re-design in the mechanism and the instructions were not updated. The 1-3/4" hole only needs to be 1/2" deep instead of 1" and the clips do not need to be cut off anymore.

 

[Glenn McCullough]

Originally posted by toolcrazy

Originally posted by Woodlvr

Thank you for the info Steve. I am on the verge of getting some and trying my hand at Peppermills.

Mike

Your very welcome. I think the hardest part of mills is the 1 1/16" forstner bit and deciding what blanks that are food safe. And I'm at the blanks stage.

I just ordered a set of forstner bits from MCLS, the catalog that comes with the Penn State catalog and made my first mill. I am very pleased and felt the price was fair, though I had to purchase the 1-1/16 bit in addition as it was not in the set I chose.