tinker
Member
LOML wants a crushed velvet pen. Does this turn like wood or are there a few things I need to know first?
crushed velvet?
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PenWorks
Member
It is a celluloid I believe. Pretty hard stuff. Use sharp tools, should have no problem, polishes up real nice.
vick
Member
it is very easy to turn it can be a pain to drill though. Drill very slow and allow your drill to cool down periodically. make sure to have a waste block underneath your blank for when the drill bit comes out. Maybe I am paranoid but I broke 2 blanks drilling then out.
its_virgil
Member
Here's a gold crushed velvet pen
<br />. Turns much like any other plastic...go easy, sharp tools, and it polishes nicely. This was sanded to 12000MM and polished with HUT's Ultra Gloss Plastic polish. The black is PVC rod.
Good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Czarcastic
Member
Tinker:
I just finished a crushed velevet pen for my Daughter.
It turns a little easier than most acrylics, but as mentioned, keep your tools VERY sharp and slow your lathe down a little. I usually turn most wood blanks between 3000 and 3500RPM. For this material I slowed it down to about 2000.
Also, as mentioned earlier, drill at slow speed. I keep my drill press at 550RPM for almost everything, so its not a problem most of the time.
Take your time finishing, too. I found regular sanding to about 400, then wet sanding with MM (or the plastic "polishing pads") all the way through 12000 works best for me. Keep the MM and the blank clean during sanding to prevent scratches. I typically keep a wet rag in my left hand on TOP of the blank, and the MM in my right hand under the blank, moving horiziontally in unison.
To finish, my preference is HUT plastic polish. I turn the speed up to about 2500 for that.
HTH,
I just finished a crushed velevet pen for my Daughter.
It turns a little easier than most acrylics, but as mentioned, keep your tools VERY sharp and slow your lathe down a little. I usually turn most wood blanks between 3000 and 3500RPM. For this material I slowed it down to about 2000.
Also, as mentioned earlier, drill at slow speed. I keep my drill press at 550RPM for almost everything, so its not a problem most of the time.
Take your time finishing, too. I found regular sanding to about 400, then wet sanding with MM (or the plastic "polishing pads") all the way through 12000 works best for me. Keep the MM and the blank clean during sanding to prevent scratches. I typically keep a wet rag in my left hand on TOP of the blank, and the MM in my right hand under the blank, moving horiziontally in unison.
To finish, my preference is HUT plastic polish. I turn the speed up to about 2500 for that.
HTH,
tinker
Member
Thanks fellas. That justifies the recent sharpening station.[8D]
I guess I better get a 5 pack and do LOML's last, a better chance of success on it.[:I]If I can just get close to either of the pictures in this thread, I will be happy.
I have been practicing with the Walnut and have become fairly comfortable with it, so I am ready to move on now.
I have been using slow (about 900rpm) speed. Should I step it up a bit or does it matter that much?
I made a list for the Rockler trip tomorrow.[
]
I guess I better get a 5 pack and do LOML's last, a better chance of success on it.[:I]If I can just get close to either of the pictures in this thread, I will be happy.
I have been practicing with the Walnut and have become fairly comfortable with it, so I am ready to move on now.
I have been using slow (about 900rpm) speed. Should I step it up a bit or does it matter that much?
I made a list for the Rockler trip tomorrow.[
]Czarcastic
Member
900 seems a bit slow, but whatever makes you comfortable is what works. Don't let anyone - especially me - tell you HOW to do it. We can only relay what works for US, and suggest you try it if your method is not working for you.
Most of what I've learned in the past two years has been form trial and error and error and error. Did I mention that I made a lot of mistakes along the way... still do!
Most of what I've learned in the past two years has been form trial and error and error and error. Did I mention that I made a lot of mistakes along the way... still do!
Justin_F
Member
I agree with all the good advice above. All i would say in addition is that when you turn acrylic, knock the edges off with a gouge (or bandsaw if you want), NOT THE SKEW as I have seen done. then go to the skew and try to produce a ribbon of acrylic as you cut rather than little bits (chips). Also, I turn acrylic at the same speed as timber but the enemy here is not speed but heat. Dont let the blank get overheated as it will distort or discolour or both
]
Hope this helps - i turn as many acrylics as timber these days and love the stuff...
]Hope this helps - i turn as many acrylics as timber these days and love the stuff...
Fangar
Member
Originally posted by tinker
<br />Thanks fellas. That justifies the recent sharpening station.[8D]
I guess I better get a 5 pack and do LOML's last, a better chance of success on it.[:I]If I can just get close to either of the pictures in this thread, I will be happy.
I have been practicing with the Walnut and have become fairly comfortable with it, so I am ready to move on now.
I have been using slow (about 900rpm) speed. Should I step it up a bit or does it matter that much?
I made a list for the Rockler trip tomorrow.[
900 is too slow for this material in my opinion. I turn it at 1800 rpm. As it seems to be a bit harder than most woods, at a slower speed your scraper (Which I recommend for plastics) will want to bounce more. I turn aluminum at 3900 rpm to avoid this bouncing. Other than that, you will love it. Expecially the finish. I too use MM to 12000 and the HUT. I then follow that up with a White Daimond buffing compund with a buffing wheel. That takes out all of the mirror fine finish scratches.
James
RPM
Member
Don,
What is the kit you used for the pen shown above? I don't recognize it and its a nice looking pen. BTW, the craftsmanship looks good also.
Richard
What is the kit you used for the pen shown above? I don't recognize it and its a nice looking pen. BTW, the craftsmanship looks good also.
Richard
its_virgil
Member
Richard,
I used a slimline...modified of course. Check out this link to an earlier post on a similar pen. Down in the thread I show a picture of the pen apart. Look here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5551
If I can be of any help, email me.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
I used a slimline...modified of course. Check out this link to an earlier post on a similar pen. Down in the thread I show a picture of the pen apart. Look here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5551
If I can be of any help, email me.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
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