Woodchipper
Member
As the title indicates, what would be the basic setup to start? Or is this in the Library for my own information?
Considering casting my own blanks
- Thread starter Woodchipper
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egnald
Member
Knowing what I know right now....
Most of what I have for casting I either made myself (molds), or I bought from Exotic Blanks. If I were to start over I would likely go with the following:
- California Air Tools 2.5 Gallon Pressure Pot (Exotic Blanks $195)
Sometimes - but not very often, I wish I would have went with the 5 gallon, but the 2.5 Gallon one works quite well for me. Instead of having to modify a typical paint pot (like the Harbor Freight), this has great features specifically geared to casting and works great right out of the box.
- California Air Tools Portable Light & Quiet Compressor (Amazon $195)
This is the one I have. I bought mine from our local Menards store and at the time it was more like $150-ish. I like it because it really is Light and relatively quiet compared to other oil-free compressors I have had or been around.
- Underhill Casting Vertical Mold System - Standard (Exotic Blanks $75)
Even though I made my own PVC molds from schedule 80 pipe, I still bought this setup. It has the advantage of being capable of making "clear cast" or "label cast" blanks in addition to "color cast" blanks where my PVC molds can only do "color casting". (Of course I would also recommend buying additional tubes and bases right away -- they are relatively inexpensive).
- Alumilite Clear SLOW Casting Resin - 8 lb Kit (about 1 gallon - Exotic Blanks $110)
For me, to make sure I have enough but to also make sure that it doesn't go bad before I get it used up, this quantity is just about right for making blanks at my pace. Also, I'm sure I need the "slow" version to give me enough working time, because "slow" still can seem pretty fast when I'm pouring for color separation and trying to get the blanks into the pressure pot before they start to set-up too much.
- Scale (Exotic Blanks $50)
Alumilite Clear SLOW gets mixed according to weight and not according to volume. This is the scale I use. I essentially calculate the amount of resin I want to use in grams and then tare the scale to ignore the mixing cup, pour part A until I get to the amount I want, then tare the scale again and pour the same amount of part B.
- Digital Infrared Thermometer (Exotic Blanks $18)
For color casting with multiple colors, knowing the temperature of the resin before pouring is important for color separation. They also have a little more expensive one (about $25) that has better accuracy, but so far the one I have works just fine.
- Eye Candy Pigments Variety/Sample Packs (Exotic Blanks $20 - $25)
I would recommend the Opalescent and Hues packs because they contain most of the individual colors that I like (completely a personal preference thing). I started out by buying several (like way too many) individual 50g jars - but so far I haven't found a color that I didn't like! I have a few other brands, but Eye Candy has become my favorite.
- Resin Mixing Cups (Exotic Blanks $0.50 for 16oz)
I find the 16 oz cups to be just right for the amount I usually pour with. After mixing the main volume in one of these cups I pour it into paper cups for each color and then pour from those into my molds. Of course this isn't necessary for "clear casts". I buy the paper drinking cups from one of our local stores. (I also use one of the big 64 oz cups to put my whole PVC mold in when pouring and setting it into the pressure pot - it makes the mold easier to carry and I don't have to worry about spillage and overfilling making a mess when I pour).
- I also use Stoner Urethane Mold Release (Exotic Blanks $13)
But I only use it with my homemade PVC molds. It isn't necessary when using John Underhill's system as the clear plastic tubes are a consumable item and either get turned away with the blank or stripped off before turning.
I'm sure there are ways to get started that are less expensive, and it did take me a long time and a lot of thoughtful consideration before making the big spend, but I certainly have no regrets - it's a lot of fun and it is very satisfying making pens from my own blanks.
Dave
Most of what I have for casting I either made myself (molds), or I bought from Exotic Blanks. If I were to start over I would likely go with the following:
- California Air Tools 2.5 Gallon Pressure Pot (Exotic Blanks $195)
Sometimes - but not very often, I wish I would have went with the 5 gallon, but the 2.5 Gallon one works quite well for me. Instead of having to modify a typical paint pot (like the Harbor Freight), this has great features specifically geared to casting and works great right out of the box.
- California Air Tools Portable Light & Quiet Compressor (Amazon $195)
This is the one I have. I bought mine from our local Menards store and at the time it was more like $150-ish. I like it because it really is Light and relatively quiet compared to other oil-free compressors I have had or been around.
- Underhill Casting Vertical Mold System - Standard (Exotic Blanks $75)
Even though I made my own PVC molds from schedule 80 pipe, I still bought this setup. It has the advantage of being capable of making "clear cast" or "label cast" blanks in addition to "color cast" blanks where my PVC molds can only do "color casting". (Of course I would also recommend buying additional tubes and bases right away -- they are relatively inexpensive).
- Alumilite Clear SLOW Casting Resin - 8 lb Kit (about 1 gallon - Exotic Blanks $110)
For me, to make sure I have enough but to also make sure that it doesn't go bad before I get it used up, this quantity is just about right for making blanks at my pace. Also, I'm sure I need the "slow" version to give me enough working time, because "slow" still can seem pretty fast when I'm pouring for color separation and trying to get the blanks into the pressure pot before they start to set-up too much.
- Scale (Exotic Blanks $50)
Alumilite Clear SLOW gets mixed according to weight and not according to volume. This is the scale I use. I essentially calculate the amount of resin I want to use in grams and then tare the scale to ignore the mixing cup, pour part A until I get to the amount I want, then tare the scale again and pour the same amount of part B.
- Digital Infrared Thermometer (Exotic Blanks $18)
For color casting with multiple colors, knowing the temperature of the resin before pouring is important for color separation. They also have a little more expensive one (about $25) that has better accuracy, but so far the one I have works just fine.
- Eye Candy Pigments Variety/Sample Packs (Exotic Blanks $20 - $25)
I would recommend the Opalescent and Hues packs because they contain most of the individual colors that I like (completely a personal preference thing). I started out by buying several (like way too many) individual 50g jars - but so far I haven't found a color that I didn't like! I have a few other brands, but Eye Candy has become my favorite.
- Resin Mixing Cups (Exotic Blanks $0.50 for 16oz)
I find the 16 oz cups to be just right for the amount I usually pour with. After mixing the main volume in one of these cups I pour it into paper cups for each color and then pour from those into my molds. Of course this isn't necessary for "clear casts". I buy the paper drinking cups from one of our local stores. (I also use one of the big 64 oz cups to put my whole PVC mold in when pouring and setting it into the pressure pot - it makes the mold easier to carry and I don't have to worry about spillage and overfilling making a mess when I pour).
- I also use Stoner Urethane Mold Release (Exotic Blanks $13)
But I only use it with my homemade PVC molds. It isn't necessary when using John Underhill's system as the clear plastic tubes are a consumable item and either get turned away with the blank or stripped off before turning.
I'm sure there are ways to get started that are less expensive, and it did take me a long time and a lot of thoughtful consideration before making the big spend, but I certainly have no regrets - it's a lot of fun and it is very satisfying making pens from my own blanks.
Dave
egnald
Member
Although I have never used it, I have read many times that because of it's low viscosity, Liquid Diamonds resin can be used successfully without a pressure pot. I'm pretty sure that doing color casts with multiple colors might be more problematic because of the low viscosity, but for clear casts or single color casts it should work. - Dave
I begin turning my own blanks. The tools I use:
- Safety tools like gloves etc.
- Resin and colorants
- Suitable mold
- Mold release
- Pressure pot (a must for me to avoid bubbles)
- Air compressor (I think it is also a must for Alumilite considering working time), for pressurizing pressure pot, also needed for taking blanks out of the mold
- Temperature measuring device (it might be negotiable)
- A scale
- Sticks for mixing resin
- Long sticks or wires to create swirls (needed for vertical cylindirical molds)
- Plastic or nylon sheeting to keep the area clean
- Kitchen towel for cleaning and some king of cleaning solvent
Woodchipper
Member
Seems easier to buy them at this stage of the game. Thanks to all.
jttheclockman
Member
That is a loaded statement. I do not agree with it but I must make sure I put the words "I" because some people here sure get pissed at my "negativity." Seems I have that problem.
Here are "MY" thoughts. Easier to buy yes but and this is a big but. No creativity. You are not in control. Yes it is another expensive slope and road to travel but this is what this hobby is about. learn the basics and then expand your wings. Fly. I agree with most of what Dave listed except the Alumilite stuff because I never used it. Others can talk to that. I use Silmar41 for the longest time and always will. I use Liquid Diamonds as my clear casting epoxy resin. Yes I use pressure pot on both resins. Better to be safe than sorry and ruin a blank with air bubbles. I also do not use molds that need release agents. You can get those foam molds sold by a few people here or you can go to the vertical molds such as John Underhills set up. This works for all blanks. So money saved on the foam molds.
Have to tell you making color blanks does not excite me because there are so many premade colored blanks to chose from. The talent is in clear casting blanks which will sell 3 to 4 times higher than colored blanks. Now do not get me wrong because I have made my own color molds if looking for certain colors so there is always a call for them too.
I guess the bottom line is do you want to take that ride down that road. ? From the statement you last made looks like you made up your mind. Good luck either way. yes to tutorials in the library.
Woodchipper
Member
John T., I hit the adding machine keys and came up with $674 outlay right out of the starting gate.
I recall some YouTube videos where blanks were cast with PVC pipe molds and no pressure pot.
I recall some YouTube videos where blanks were cast with PVC pipe molds and no pressure pot.
NJturner
Member
Ingoing price is pretty large if you try and make a full permanent setup, but you can get quality results with some shortcuts like using PVC pipe from HD and a slower resin that does not require a pressure pot. Build an inexpensive pipe holder to keep the PVC pipes upright in and order some stoppers from Amazon for the ID of the pipe. A can of mold release is about $10 and its worth it. You can also get sample mica or color packs from some of the providers that will get you off the ground for a cheap start. An IR temp gun from Harbor Freight can be had on sale for under $20 and they do the job. I did it this way to do my first attempt - and it worked - but it also got me hooked into the creative possibilities. My initial outlay was less than $100 and yielded about 15 long rods, which in my brain was a savings.
My second step was a modified pressure pot from HF and since my shop already had a compressor, it was fairly inexpensive. I also cut up some cutting boards and made my own rectangular molds to pour into. Realized why I stopped using square blanks, but it was cheap. That allowed me to go to Alumilite Clear Slow for the resin.
I'm now all in and my list of gear looks like some of the above comments. I enjoy it, but it does always seem like I need 'just one more mica or color or something' but I'm used to that response since the day I started turning, its been a pretty common saying!
Kevin
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jttheclockman
Member
Other than epoxy resins I know no other casting resin that does not need pressure pot. The big expense is the pressure pot because you want a good quality and safe one and a compressor. All the rest stuff is materials needed no matter what you use. When you use PVC you are at the mercy of not knowing if there are bubbles until you demold. But to each their own.
NJturner
Member
JT - I now mostly use blue silicone long gang molds for casting, along with the PVC pipe. You can't see bubbles in either - you just need to attend to pouring and mixing it carefully. to minimize the bubbling. I will say that I often de-gas my resin mix in a vacuum chamber before pouring it into the silicon vertical molds and it has pretty much really given me good results without voids. I'd rather not leave things to fate and if I have the time the extra degassing step helps really clear out the air, leaving the pressure pot to do less work - as I normally pour my resin on the hot side, so it doesn't have a really long time to sit and lose the voids in the resin from the pressure before it begins to set up.
Kevin
jttheclockman
Member
I use to use a converted HF pressure pot for many years and still have it but with time I know the wear and tear on those lids and those flimsy knobs just pushed me to a safer and highly recommended California Air Tool pressure pot. Night and day and now feel so much safer and anyone ever asks me which pressure pot to buy I will say that one. Comes all outfitted and ready to go. It is like the argument about tablesaws. Is a standard saw as good as a SawStop saw. It can be but many feel the SawStop is worth the extra $$.
NJturner
Member
Same here. Used the HF for a good number of years - it worked great, but when I went to custom pen making, I needed longer blanks and they just don't fit in the HF pot vertically. Enter the 5 gal California Air tools pot - worth every penny! If you have the cash and want top of the line, this is it. Use it right out of the box - no add ons. I do suggest if you buy one that you test the 'pop-off' pressure on the safety valve and be sure to set the regulator to your desired pressure level. Mine was sort of close, nothing to be hazardous or a problem, but a few minutes making the adjustment is time well spent.
Kevin
moke
Member
I helped a guy with a remodel and got a very nice gig=ft certificate and started with that Cal air pot....i have just been casting for a few months now and have had a ball...I pretty much now have a lifetime supply of blanks!!! If you watch John Underhill youtubes it is not hard...just follow his instructions....
I get it is easier to maybe buy them...but so is buying pens....
I get it is easier to maybe buy them...but so is buying pens....
not claiming to be an expert, but ill begin by saying, ive only very recently got a vac chamber, and of the few things ive done with it, about 1/3 had bubbles. to be fair, i also have been trying a new, cheaper epoxy with those. its much thicker and i feel may be the issue.
but to the point, no pens, but i have made wands and pool sticks with pvc pipe as a disposable mold. (before the degassing days) i just tape one end of the pipe shut, pour, then turn as usual, turning the pvc off as i go. (eta, AFTER its cured, of course)
i feel this would be a lot more work for a pen blank, especilly with pre made silicon molds available for under $50.
imo: cost to get started.
first, theres mixing cups. ratios are very important, ive had pours never cure properly because of being SLIGHTLY off in ratios. i have tested the stuff that i use and the specific gravity of both parts are close enough that i use a scale to mix equal parts and it works for me. so...
scale - $35-50 and any cheap $0.05 cups, ---- or graduated cups $1 ea
$50-100 for some decent resin epoxy
up to $50 for a cheap silicon mold.
colorants: skys the limit here, but a small basic set can probably be had for around $15
maybe some release spray, not always nessicary for quality silicon molds, but makes it easier. $5
and the other small odds and ends you probably already have, like mixing sticks, nitrile gloves, paper towels/rags, ect...
should be able to do that for WELL under $674. the epoxy is really the main cost. i wouldnt go dirt cheap, good chance you might get trash, but you dont need to go top of the line either. only problem is mid grade is also hella expensive (imo). if you wish to continue, then you can add things like degassing chambers, silicon mats, better/different moulds, ect... as you go
Woodchipper
Member
Thanks deth502 but this is pigeonholed for now.