casting material reference

[mostangrypirate]

I would like to start a thread for my benefit as well as anyone else who is interested in casting thier own blanks. It would be great to have a thread that shares each individual experience with different types of casting material, brand names, where they got it and how much it was.( such as PR, alumilite, silmar41 etc.) I will begin with the small amount of info that I have gathered and I hope everyone will chip in. if our despriptions are brief yet informative, it will make for easy, quick reading and help guide others in the direction they want to go.

)Clear casting resin from douglas & sturgess www.artstuf.com 12.90 per quart and about 45.00 per gallon. I found this resin to be very easy to work with. it has the much talked about oder and fumes, but I don't mind it. it turned very well, (only 1 out of 10 or so, chipped) much better than the acrylester I got from PSI( 1 in 10 survived) finished great.

)clear polyester resin by castin' craft. purchased one gallon at wood world for 50.00, but have seen this brand elsewhere also. I found this stuff to be a little different. everything went well until it got to the lathe. I have had nothing but trouble trying to turn this stuff without blowouts and shattering. this is MY personal experience with this product and I connot promise that it was not user error. the surving pieces finished well.

)Alumlite made a bottle stopper blank at a chapter meeting. do not know brand or price. I found this product was very easy to work with. it is ready to turn much sooner then the PR, but the working time before it hardens may not always be a desire. it turned extremely well. smooth cuts and not a hint of being brittle. one downside I saw was that the shavings were almost like fishing line. they flew off like a dream, but when they got wound up I had to stop the lathe and pretty much cut them off.(which was often) they were stong enough to grab my chissel and drive it into the piece otherwise.

 

[spiritwoodturner]

I guess I'm lucky, I've got a local plastics distributor not too far from me. I get Silmar 41 for about 40 bucks a gallon, about 36 if I get 5 at a time. They give it to me in 5 1's, which is nicer for handling.

I don't mind the smell at all, but I have a good space with lots of air. When Alumilite shines as nice as PR (folks are working on that) I would like to try it.

I have my little Wally World toaster oven, and I'm chunking out good quality blanks after a few months of working with it.

Dale

 

[Manny]

I would like to start a thread for my benefit as well as anyone else who is interested in casting thier own blanks. It would be great to have a thread that shares each individual experience with different types of casting material, brand names, where they got it and how much it was.( such as PR, alumilite, silmar41 etc.) I will begin with the small amount of info that I have gathered and I hope everyone will chip in. if our despriptions are brief yet informative, it will make for easy, quick reading and help guide others in the direction they want to go.

)Clear casting resin from douglas & sturgess www.artstuf.com 12.90 per quart and about 45.00 per gallon. I found this resin to be very easy to work with. it has the much talked about oder and fumes, but I don't mind it. it turned very well, (only 1 out of 10 or so, chipped) much better than the acrylester I got from PSI( 1 in 10 survived) finished great.

)clear polyester resin by castin' craft. purchased one gallon at wood world for 50.00, but have seen this brand elsewhere also. I found this stuff to be a little different. everything went well until it got to the lathe. I have had nothing but trouble trying to turn this stuff without blowouts and shattering. this is MY personal experience with this product and I connot promise that it was not user error. the surving pieces finished well.

)Alumlite made a bottle stopper blank at a chapter meeting. do not know brand or price. I found this product was very easy to work with. it is ready to turn much sooner then the PR, but the working time before it hardens may not always be a desire. it turned extremely well. smooth cuts and not a hint of being brittle. one downside I saw was that the shavings were almost like fishing line. they flew off like a dream, but when they got wound up I had to stop the lathe and pretty much cut them off.(which was often) they were stong enough to grab my chissel and drive it into the piece otherwise.

On the Castin Craft stuff I get alot of shattering with any tool but a sharp skew. I usually seem to find a nice sweet spot and I use it to round and shape.

I agree on the Alumilite. Lol I have strings coming off my lathe looks like someone shot it with silly string.

What are you using in your shop to control fumes? I found an article in a woodworking magazine that has plans for a home made air cleaner. I am considering making one.


Manny

 

[mostangrypirate]

for fume control I open the door, I built my mixing station near it. if the wind is kicking dust into my molds, I close it and wear a double filter mask.

 

[Glass Scratcher]

You have Polyester Resin (PR) and Polyurethane resins.

Polyester Resins:
Silmar 41, Onyx resin by Silmar, Polylite(Acrylester) in several formulations manufactured by Reichold, Onyx resin by Reichold, Castin'Craft manufactured by ETI...

Polyurethane Resins:
Alumilite Clear, Alumilite White, Alumilte Regular...
Smooth-On 325, 326, & 327, and many, many others
Polytech polyoptic clear urethane resins
Golden West,
Synair...

The particular MSDS worksheets will tell you what you are really working with.

 

[mostangrypirate]

thanks for the more accurate descriptions scratcher, but will you tell us your personal experience with each of the products that you have tried.

 

[Jim15]

I can't add anything yet as I haven't done any casting yet, just wanted to say thanks for starting this thread.

 

[DozerMite]

I used to use the Castin' Craft without any problems at all but, found out it is much cheaper to get the Silmar by the gallon even after shipping.
The Silmar and the CC each react differently from one another in both the mixing/gelling and the turning. No problems using either one.

 

[DurocShark]

Castin Craft - $15 a quart with the 50% Michaels coupon. I agree with it being tough to turn though. Not like...

Alumilite - $30 for 2 quarts (one quart part A one quart part B) at Hobby Lobby. They only have the white, which is what I use for my marbled blanks. Lovely to cast and turn.

I haven't done any heated curing, or pressure pots, so can't speak to those.

 

[Manny]

Castin Craft - $15 a quart with the 50% Michaels coupon. I agree with it being tough to turn though. Not like...

Alumilite - $30 for 2 quarts (one quart part A one quart part B) at Hobby Lobby. They only have the white, which is what I use for my marbled blanks. Lovely to cast and turn.

I haven't done any heated curing, or pressure pots, so can't speak to those.

Michael's by my house sells the PR and the catalyst seperate so it is much more expensive. The 50% coupon is for 1 item only

Manny

 

[DurocShark]

Michael's by my house sells the PR and the catalyst seperate so it is much more expensive. The 50% coupon is for 1 item only

Manny

It's just MEK. And it's only $5 for a bottle... Enough to do a gallon or two.

 

[Manny]

Wellll much more expensive I admit is an over exaggeration. But by percentage it seems like alot!!!! :tongue:

 

[bkersten]

The AC Moore craft stores around me sell the PR with the MEPK in a small casting dish as a cap for the PR can. I've used 2 cans of PR so far and still on the first dropper of MEPK .

 

[Charles]

Question? Does the MEPK ever go bad like the castin craft does? ie the resin will eventually harden in the can if not used, Will the MEPK still be good on another can of the castin craft?

Personaly I have cast numerious snake skins but all in castin craft. I'm reading and learning about what pigments works best because I am ready to try some color. Even did a special set of snake skin darts for a tourney tosser.

 

[Glass Scratcher]

Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide, MEKp, does what all peroxides do, they will oxidize out over time. It all depends on how it is stored.

 

[GouletPens]

I have used the ArtStuf PR and Alumilite, both in a PV pot. I was never able to get the hang of the PR, it wouldn't harden quick enough for me, but that was before I read about the toaser over trick. Haven't tried it again since. I'm waiting for a nice day when I can cast it outside. The alumilite it much faster and isn't toxic to breathe, but does need a finish on it to get that PR like shine. I have only used Alumilite to cast worthless woods, so I'm doing a CA finish anyway. I like to work 'by inspiration' a lot of the time, so being able to take a piece of wood, come up with a couple of colors and cast it real quick is a nice aspect of alumilite for me. PR would take at least a day to cure right and by then I've moved on to something else that grabbed my attention.

 

[NewLondon88]

The alumilite it much faster and isn't toxic to breathe, but does need a finish on it to get that PR like shine.

.. might want to check out the Crystal Clear. A bit longer working time, and
it seems that low temp slows that down a lot more than the clear, but it
polishes up nicely without a CA coating

 

[GouletPens]

.. might want to check out the Crystal Clear. A bit longer working time, and
it seems that low temp slows that down a lot more than the clear, but it
polishes up nicely without a CA coating

The clear is what I use....but I've only done casting with 'worthless wood', so I've always put on CA anyway. From what others have said, alumilite needs CA to really shine up, you're the first I've heard say otherwise. I'll have to try it for myself though (one of these days).

 

[NewLondon88]

The clear is what I use....but I've only done casting with 'worthless wood', so I've always put on CA anyway. From what others have said, alumilite needs CA to really shine up, you're the first I've heard say otherwise. I'll have to try it for myself though (one of these days).

. not the clear, but the crystal clear

 

[baker4456]

I have used Casting Craft from Michaels (50%off coupn) on a lot of snake and other castings and have found the catalyst last for several quarts. You do have to use a light touch and sharp tools when turning. It will crack during curing if you use too much catalyst. It polishes nicely.

 

[DurocShark]

Yep. It's because of CC that I've begun actually honing my skew. I have a slipstone and a diamond hone handy and use both frequently. Saves trips to the grinder, and the cut is much nicer on a honed edge.

 

[Gordon]

I've only used Castin Craft - but have an interest in trying Alumilite as I understand that embedded objects are less likely to rise to the top of the mold. Don't know how or why - could use some advise on this.

 

[workinforwood]

Yes, Alumilite is now offering Crystal Clear. It is different than what we are used to with the Water clear. It is a bit harder, thus takes a shine comparable to PR. The price of the new product is the same as the old. $160 for a 1 gallon kit. It is $510 for a 5 gallon kit, or $550 for <5> 1 gallon kits. That is the best buy for most of us. Broken down, the 5 gallon kit price is only $51 per gallon, keeping in mind that a 5 gallon kit is actually 10 gallons of resin. That is quite close to competing with the Price of Silmar 41. PR requires Hazmat if being shipped, which adds to the price, bringing the 2 products pretty much neck and neck if shipping is your only option.
Although Alumilite can become soft from a hot drill bit, it does not melt. Therefore, the drill hole is less likely to elongate and if the Alumilite does soften, it will re-harden very quickly once the bit is removed. For Crystal or Water clear, you pretty much have to use a pressure pot. Ribbons are a pain, but PR does the same thing when I turn it. I have learned to use my thumb to catch the ribbons while turning so after each pass I am able to pull the ribbons away from the lathe. I use my finger as a guide on the tool rest and my thumb up over the top and as I get close to the end, I clamp down and pull away.

 

[GouletPens]

Dang, so that 2 gallons of water clear I just bought last month are now inferior...go figure:tongue: Looks like I'll be trying the crystal clear when I run out of the water clear....in a couple years

 

[NewLondon88]

Dang, so that 2 gallons of water clear I just bought last month are now inferior...

Water clear? Dude.. water clear is like ..so 2008. :tongue:

 

[GouletPens]

Water clear? Dude.. water clear is like ..so 2008. :tongue:

Naah dude, I bought it during the Birthday Bash! Man, they couldn't have some out with it just a month sooner?:redface:

 

[NewLondon88]

I've been doing the clear casts and I like it, but yesterday I poured another
tortoise shell blank that I did with clear before and it came out nice. With
the crystal clear, I just checked on it.. left it under pressure overnight
(only because I poured it and went home) I just took it out and it was
tacky on the top. I put it in the toaster oven and I just checked it again,
it is liquid on top.. like .. even thinner than when I poured it. It seemed to
have a lot of TransTint on the top. The compatibility might not be the same..
(20 drops to 16 ounces) .. I'll let it cool off and come back and check
this afternoon. I HOPE this stuff works the same with tints ,because that
tortoise shell looked good!

 

[brianh]

Hi. I would also be very interested to know more about making my own castings, I know absolutely nothing about the process. Is there any one in the UK who might help?

Regards

Brian H.

 

[MesquiteMan]

The Crystal Clear is what I have been working on with Mike for a while now. He is still tweaking the forumla to come up with the best pen making resin out there. I have tested 2 different versions and I believe we have come up with just the right forumla. The stuff I have been working with polished up just as well as a PR control piece that I turned and sanded using the same methods. The Crystal Clear has a little longer working time and has even less odor than the Water Clear. It is a little more brittle but still not as brittle as PR. Mike should be announcing the new forumlation here real soon.

As for New London's problem with CC...did you pre-heat your mold as suggested? I only use Alumilite dyes since they are designed to work with Alumilite and I have not had any curring issues whatsoever with CC. Why no just use Alumilite dyes? One drop per ounce is what I use and get great color. The cost is cheaper and guaranteed to work. Transtint is $6.45 per ounce online and Alumilite dye is $4.50. The pigment carrier in Alumilite dye is part A of the resin which guarantees it will work.

 

[NewLondon88]

As for New London's problem with CC...did you pre-heat your mold as suggested? I only use Alumilite dyes since they are designed to work with Alumilite and I have not had any curring issues whatsoever with CC. Why no just use Alumilite dyes?

Because I already have the TransTint, it worked with the Clear and I was
trying to duplicate a successful recipe. I've got about a dozen bottles
of the TT on the shelf and to get a dozen new dyes at $4.50 .. well, that
just isn't in the budget at the moment. (neither was the CC, but I splurged)

One drop per ounce is what I use and get great color. The cost is cheaper and guaranteed to work. Transtint is $6.45 per ounce online and Alumilite dye is $4.50. The pigment carrier in Alumilite dye is part A of the resin which guarantees it will work.

No doubt it will work. I don't normally dye a crystal clear resin, I've got
lots of other resins for that. I just tried it out, that's all. I wasn't making
a recommendation or anything. Still don't know what went wrong.. I put it
in the toaster oven and I just noticed that the block is divided in half
(colorwise) and the tray at the bottom is full of colored resin
I won't be trying that one again..

 

[mostangrypirate]

OK folks. If you read my first post then you know I have tried(to an extent) 3 other products for casting. I now have a 4th. I recieved one gallon of Silmar 41 from US composites. It was 35.00 and came with plenty of MEKP. I did one experimental bottle stopper blank. half with loads of color and 1/2 clear. I then proceeded to abuse this thing in several ways. I was very agresive with my gouge and skew. I let it get hot. and pressed harder than I ever would. I was able to produce slight chipping but none of the major "shattering" I have gotten (without trying) from the CC. For the moment, this is my favorite medium for casting. Price vs. Ease in turning and results. I have several more bricks in the PP, and when I have finished this gallon I will confirm or retract my opinion.
I hope evryone who finds this thread, also finds it helpful.

 

[traderdon55]

Paul thanks for all the info. After watching Terry's demo at the last meeting I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a paint pot so I that I can start casting. I was undecided what to use but was leaning towards Silmar 41 due to the price. You helped me make up my mind.I will be placing my order tomorrow. THANKS

 

[mostangrypirate]

this is exactly the type of response I was hoping to see. I am glad this stuff helped.

Paul thanks for all the info. After watching Terry's demo at the last meeting I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a paint pot so I that I can start casting. I was undecided what to use but was leaning towards Silmar 41 due to the price. You helped me make up my mind.I will be placing my order tomorrow. THANKS

 

[NewLondon88]

I would have replied, but I'm still cursing you.

I need to make more room in my shop for all the cans of spray paint.

And to make it worse, I discovered that I can get glow in the dark
powders, mix them with lacquer and spray them with the airbrush.

Curse you, mostangrypirate. Curse you I say.

 

[mostangrypirate]

I would have replied, but I'm still cursing you.

I need to make more room in my shop for all the cans of spray paint.

And to make it worse, I discovered that I can get glow in the dark
powders, mix them with lacquer and spray them with the airbrush.

Curse you, mostangrypirate. Curse you I say.

IAP does not carry a little smiley the really expresses the amount of laughing and finger pointing that I am doing right now.:biggrin: