This post is for glu boost users only. It is not to be a discussion on the best CA. If you don't use or have never used glu boost, this question isn't for you. Now that all the disclaimers are in place, here's what I want to know. I watched Mark Dryer's video on glu boost. Thanks Mark for the video. In the video, I don't see Mark using micro mesh and he applies it in reverse order of how I have always used CA. That being he used the thin last, where I always use thin first. So all you glu boosters, do you apply like Mark and not micro mesh ? Also Mark, if I have it wrong how you apply, feel free to correct me.
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JohnU
Member
So in the beginning I felt the same as you. We always used thin first to soak in and seal, then layered a thick medium to sand level and polish. Since GluBoost orange and blue labels are a finish, I use them opposite. Blue label fills voids and cracks and self levels. Orange is thinner and leaves a nice surface to polish.
On wood, I apply both and 3-5 layers each. On alumilite resin where it's harder to get a glass like finish I use 1-2 of the blue label and 3 of the orange. I DO use micromesh but with little pressure. Prior to micromesh I use extra fine steel wool (light pressure) with the lathe on high to smooth out any ridges from application. I use micromesh wet and sometimes buff depending on the results. I know some that go straight from application to buffing but I'm guessing they have to work a little harder at buffing to make up for not micromeshing. I just set up a permanent buffing station so I will play around with both processes to see what I like the best. Currently I've always been a micromesh guy with little or light buffing.
On wood, I apply both and 3-5 layers each. On alumilite resin where it's harder to get a glass like finish I use 1-2 of the blue label and 3 of the orange. I DO use micromesh but with little pressure. Prior to micromesh I use extra fine steel wool (light pressure) with the lathe on high to smooth out any ridges from application. I use micromesh wet and sometimes buff depending on the results. I know some that go straight from application to buffing but I'm guessing they have to work a little harder at buffing to make up for not micromeshing. I just set up a permanent buffing station so I will play around with both processes to see what I like the best. Currently I've always been a micromesh guy with little or light buffing.
mg_dreyer
Member
Ok I am sorry if I confused you. I do use micromesh, but here it is step by step.
- Turn the blank down to the bushings
- Traditional sand paper (every grit - don't skip a grit) up to 400 wet-dry in dry mode
- Two coats of the Fill N Finish Blue (yes you got that correct the Blue first)
- If there are any nibs some steel wool #0000 - just to de-nib
- Then 2 - 3 coats of the Fill N Finish Thin - Orange (de-nib if you need)
- ALWAYS GluDry in between - but only a spritz - not a big spray. This is where I think I lot of people over spray
- De-nib
- Now light sand paper (do not sand through (no lower than 400 and light at that)
- Micro mesh through 12,000 (every other grit "with the grain" then tangential)
- Novus 2 polish
- Buffing system
- I use the Blue (medium) first because the self leveling feature allows the medium to fill any small voids. Then the Orange only has to act as a finish.
- GluDry - light spritz
- You can apply the Fill N Finish with the lathe on or off. I go off, but I know Underhill and Ed both do it lathe on.
- Just make sure you do not sand through the finish - light touch
- I think another issue is not understanding a little goes a long way - I would rather see a few extra coats but light coats not heavy
- Heavy coats give bigger ridges and more sanding
One more tip - to practice on a new wood just round the blank and leave it way proud of the bushing (literally just rounded). Apply and test the finish. Turn it off and try it again. Do it until comfortable. Then go for the bushing and final finish.
Sincerely - let me know if you have other questions and let me know how things work out for you. I hate to do a commercial but I will be doing a demo on this and Master Tint at the MPG April 24 and 25.
Looking forward to hearing back,
Mark
JohnU
Member
I forgot to mention, in Marks video he applies with the lathe off. I've tried both but unless I'm filling precise areas (cracks or holes) I apply with the lathe on at a very low speed.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
I have tried lots of ways--so far NONE has failed. But my preference is to start with thin to fill (I am old-school). I apply 2 to 3 coats of thin and the blank is nice and shiny. I apply 2 coats of blue (pro finish) to build. I use glu-dry if the humidity is such that the glu-boost is taking longer than 30 seconds to become "non-tacky". Finally, I let the blank sit overnight. The last coat of blue is usually not even, but I don't care. Just to be clear, the lathe is running about 600 rpm.
Next day, the glue is thoroughly cured, so I sand with 600 grit to achieve a nice even, smooth to the touch finish. I will sometimes sand lightly with 1000 grit (all dry). Then, take it to the buffer and use tripoli and white diamond--finish with a flannel wheel with nothing on it, just to get off any white diamond residue.
I tell you this not to "argue" with my friends above--instead I hope to point out that every method I have tried has yielded excellent results!! For the past two years, gluboost is the only finish I have used on my pens--pens that are made to photograph and serve as models on our website. The optimum result gives a great "shine-line"--I have achieved that on every pen! You will too!! Using ANY of the methods shown.
Next day, the glue is thoroughly cured, so I sand with 600 grit to achieve a nice even, smooth to the touch finish. I will sometimes sand lightly with 1000 grit (all dry). Then, take it to the buffer and use tripoli and white diamond--finish with a flannel wheel with nothing on it, just to get off any white diamond residue.
I tell you this not to "argue" with my friends above--instead I hope to point out that every method I have tried has yielded excellent results!! For the past two years, gluboost is the only finish I have used on my pens--pens that are made to photograph and serve as models on our website. The optimum result gives a great "shine-line"--I have achieved that on every pen! You will too!! Using ANY of the methods shown.
greenacres2
Member
I do the same, with lathe on like John. Also--and i started this before switching to BluBoost--I start with the MicroMesh as soon as the final coat is cured enough to not be tacky. Used to wait overnight for the CA to cure, but find that hitting it sooner while the ca is a little "soft" makes for a smoother final product. But--the MM has to be clean, or it's easy to scratch the CA at that point.
earl
earl
JohnU
Member
I agree... it's just that good. It fills, finishes and shines very nicely. I find that I use so much less glue and without all of the waiting time between layers like I did with previous brands. A CA finish used to be work. Now it's a quick process, and the end results have improved for me. I no longer find cracks in my finish when using the pen later down the road, and I certainly don't miss the white spots from activator reactions. I truly think any application process with it will end in success.
JackNapalm
Member
This was my first GluBoost pen. Tried it the other day. I watched Mark's video and this is the result. At first I swear I thought I watched a video somewhere that didn't use micromesh. I got to the point of 3 coats of Orange and said, it needed to be polished. Did it and was very pleased.
duncsuss
Member
I was lucky in the BASH losers' train drawing and got a certificate to PennState; I put it towards a GluBoost kit, the first time I've tried it.
I made a couple of clutch pencil kits that I found, and finished both of them the counter-intuitive way per the instructions - thick first - thinking to myself the whole time that this is not going to work.
Very happy with the result (full disclosure: I use 3M Tri-mite papers rather than Micromesh)
I made a couple of clutch pencil kits that I found, and finished both of them the counter-intuitive way per the instructions - thick first - thinking to myself the whole time that this is not going to work.
Very happy with the result (full disclosure: I use 3M Tri-mite papers rather than Micromesh)
sorcerertd
Member
tomtedesco
Member
Just started using glueboost and have had very good luck with it. I also start with thin and MM between coats of thin and finish with blue.
JohnU
Member
If you mm between coats you risk removing what you just put on. You'll have better results if you apply a few of each coat before you micromesh.
RichAldrich
Member
Going to try it!
That's how I got mine, I won a gift certificate in the bash.
penicillin
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2019
- Messages
- 1,036
I have seen Mark's video and a recent live demo. Mark used Micro-mesh in the demo, saying that he uses all nine pads, but changes the direction for each pad.
I use all nine pads, but go both directions for each pad - spin the lathe slowly first, then stop the lathe and go lengthwise for each pad. I also wipe the pen blank with a small clean cloth before starting the next pad, to avoid "oversize grit scratches." The cloth removes residual grit that may be left on the pen blank. (I do the same with sanding before finishing.)
Before you judge Mark or me, I note that Mark can turn and finish a pen in 5-10 minutes. The same pen takes me an hour.
I bought GluBoost Fill n' Finish in May 2019 at my local Rockler store after hearing good things about GluBoost.
-> Y'all take a Sharpie and write the date of purchase and the date of first opening on all your glue bottles, right? ... Right!
The first time I used GluBoost, I put thin (orange) first, then medium (blue) because that's the way I always did CA finishes. Soon after, I found instructions or notes from GluBoost recommending the medium (blue) first, then thin (orange) as a topcoat, and that's what I have been doing ever since. To me, the results are better. I believe that using the thin as a topcoat leaves a better, more crystal-like finish.
I apply two drops of GluBoost using a small piece of 2mm craft foam. A 12x9 inch sheet of craft foam costs 88 cents at Walmart. I cut it up into small pieces - one sheet will do a lot of pens. I like craft foam because it does not absorb CA glue.
Unlike Mark, I apply it with the lathe turning at a low speed. I have heard Mark's comments about "self-leveling." My secret for a smooth, no-ripple finish is to avoid too much CA in one application. One or two drops per application is perfect for a typical pen.
Note on aging:
The medium bottle is starting to show signs of yellowing, so the two year lifetime is probably a pretty good estimate.
I use all nine pads, but go both directions for each pad - spin the lathe slowly first, then stop the lathe and go lengthwise for each pad. I also wipe the pen blank with a small clean cloth before starting the next pad, to avoid "oversize grit scratches." The cloth removes residual grit that may be left on the pen blank. (I do the same with sanding before finishing.)
Before you judge Mark or me, I note that Mark can turn and finish a pen in 5-10 minutes. The same pen takes me an hour.
I bought GluBoost Fill n' Finish in May 2019 at my local Rockler store after hearing good things about GluBoost.
-> Y'all take a Sharpie and write the date of purchase and the date of first opening on all your glue bottles, right? ... Right!
The first time I used GluBoost, I put thin (orange) first, then medium (blue) because that's the way I always did CA finishes. Soon after, I found instructions or notes from GluBoost recommending the medium (blue) first, then thin (orange) as a topcoat, and that's what I have been doing ever since. To me, the results are better. I believe that using the thin as a topcoat leaves a better, more crystal-like finish.
I apply two drops of GluBoost using a small piece of 2mm craft foam. A 12x9 inch sheet of craft foam costs 88 cents at Walmart. I cut it up into small pieces - one sheet will do a lot of pens. I like craft foam because it does not absorb CA glue.
Unlike Mark, I apply it with the lathe turning at a low speed. I have heard Mark's comments about "self-leveling." My secret for a smooth, no-ripple finish is to avoid too much CA in one application. One or two drops per application is perfect for a typical pen.
Note on aging:
The medium bottle is starting to show signs of yellowing, so the two year lifetime is probably a pretty good estimate.
tomtedesco
Member
I do MM between the orange and blue after applying several coats, I was not clear in my description. Thanks.