Calibrate level.

[WriteON]

I brought a Starrett 98. Any good tips or good videos to calibrate it. Bought it to check and maybe fine tune my pool table. Thanks.

 

[Penultimate]

Hi
Blondihacks on YouTube has a vid on leveling a lathe. She explains how to use the machinist level.

 

[WriteON]

Hi
Blondihacks on YouTube has a vid on leveling a lathe. She explains how to use the machinist level.

Thanks. I'm interested in calibrating the level. It's not accurate out of the box. But I'll watch the vid.

 

[jttheclockman]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...A085EB73D59A7D77C58AA085EB73D59A7D7&FORM=VIRE


https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...04C7B51D5990FA89462504C&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

 

[rherrell]

Any surface you put a level on will have a "level" point, all you have to do is rotate the level to find it. Put your level on your bench and spin it around until you get the bubble perfectly level. Now, without moving it, set up some kind of a "fence" that will serve as your "home" location. I use a couple pieces of steel but you can also just draw the outline of the level with a pencil, anything will work as long as you can repeat that exact location. Now flip the level 180 degrees and check the bubble, most likely it won't be perfectly centered so adjust the vial half the distance that it's out. At this point you're not trying to get it "level" you're trying to get it to read the same when you rotate it 180 degrees. When it reads the same after you rotate it you're done.

FYI, it's not really necessary to get it level before you start calibrating, it's just how I do it. You can just plop it down anywhere to start with, the idea is to get the bubble to read the same when you rotate it 180 degrees. The most important part is to set up some kind of a perimeter so the level will be in the exact same spot every time you rotate it.

Also, a lathe doesn't need to be "level", think about a lathe in the machine shop of a big ship. It's nice to have it level from left to right but the most important thing is to remove any "twist" in it. Placing your level "across" the ways on each end is how you measure the "twist".

 

[jttheclockman]

Wow, trying to level a pool table is a job and bet you will never get it perfectly level. A good quality carpenters level would do the same. If your table is a 2 piece or 3 piece slate then making sure those are aligned is foremost important so then you can level the wooden portion of the table next. If it is a one piece that is an expensive table. (if we are talking full size table). Make sure all joints and bolts are tightened before doing any leveling. Moisture content always will effect roll of balls as well as expanding and contracting of wood as you know. The quality of balls used effects roll of balls as well as cloth. Top pro's play on top equipment. Homeowners look to have a fair game with the table they play on. I wish you luck. Those are nice levels for sure and need special care because they are not as rugged as standard levels. Just to take Rick's instructions out to the construction fields we use to check our levels by using a wall. Place level against wall either horizontally or vertically and get the bubble level. Now trace a line around the level. Flip level 180 degrees and place inside the outline you drew and if it reads level then it is good for construction work.

When all my work is completed in my house I need to tune my pool table also when I can get game room back. I have stored heavy stuff on it and it needs new cloth. I will have a pro come in and do all that.

 

[rherrell]

Here is my typical set-up for calibrating my level...

I find the level spot and block it off.

Here's how you measure for twist...

If you look real hard you can see the shim under the 1-2-3 block nearest you, I use it to get the bubble in between the lines so I have a reference point. I take note of where the bubble is and move the whole set-up to the other end. This is where you either adjust your leveling feet or use shims to raise one end.
If I need shims to put under one end of the lathe I use regular shim stock and cut off a piece. For temporary shims like the one under the 1-2-3 block I use feeler gages, I bought several cheap sets on Ebay, disassembled them and sorted them into individual envelopes. HANDY!!

I should mention that this just gets you close to where you need to be, the next step is to make some test cuts to get it perfect, but that's a whole other subject!!!

 

[Penultimate]

Any surface you put a level on will have a "level" point, all you have to do is rotate the level to find it. Put your level on your bench and spin it around until you get the bubble perfectly level. Now, without moving it, set up some kind of a "fence" that will serve as your "home" location. I use a couple pieces of steel but you can also just draw the outline of the level with a pencil, anything will work as long as you can repeat that exact location. Now flip the level 180 degrees and check the bubble, most likely it won't be perfectly centered so adjust the vial half the distance that it's out. At this point you're not trying to get it "level" you're trying to get it to read the same when you rotate it 180 degrees. When it reads the same after you rotate it you're done.

FYI, it's not really necessary to get it level before you start calibrating, it's just how I do it. You can just plop it down anywhere to start with, the idea is to get the bubble to read the same when you rotate it 180 degrees. The most important part is to set up some kind of a perimeter so the level will be in the exact same spot every time you rotate it.

Also, a lathe doesn't need to be "level", think about a lathe in the machine shop of a big ship. It's nice to have it level from left to right but the most important thing is to remove any "twist" in it. Placing your level "across" the ways on each end is how you measure the "twist".

Most of the vids I watch call leveling the lathe taking out the twist. South Bend lathes made for ships we're made with three legs.