Ca-Blo / Plastic Polish

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JimGo

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I know Tom (OldGriz) uses either HPP or and automotive polish and/or swirl remover with a lot of success. I've used HPP too. I don't see as big of a difference with it on my CA finishes as I do on my polyester resin pieces - on those, it does make a visible difference.
 
its_virgil

its_virgil

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I use HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish as soon as I finish sanding the CA. I don['t know what you mean by "cures"; for me it is cured as soon as it is dry. I sand with MM and and use the HUT Ultra Gloss. Some use McGuire's auto polish, but I'm not sure which formula. John "Deere41h" can answer the auto polish question if he sees this post. He uses it with great success.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
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JimGo

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Bryan,
I've been paying attention to Tom and some of the other CA people's posts lately, and noticed something - they are using MicroMesh AFTER the last CA application. Until now, I've always just finished the wood out to MM12000, then did a light touch of BLO on the blank, followed by some CA, then a little more BLO, then more CA, then one more application of each, then I've been done. I've always been really pleased with my blanks when they come off the lathe, but some of them lose their luster after a day. I was thinking that it might be because the BLO is gradually drying. I am thinking about trying MM (starting around 4000 or so) after the three to five layers of CA are dry to see if it brings up more of a polish. Finishing THAT with some HPP might really make it pop. It may be that my final CA coats are too rough for the HPP to really give it the kind of polish I am seeing on the polyester resins.

Thanks again for the mesquite - now I know why everyone raves over Dario's mesquite! That should make a great pen!
 
O

Old Griz

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After CA (CA only, no BLO), I ALWAYS sand to 12000MM, then use automotive polishing compound followed by either Hut Plastic Polish or anti-swirl cream (whichever is closer to hand)... I get a very high gloss on the finish...
I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks.. I think it was from the BLO.. if you use too much BLO I believe it happens.. have not had the problem since.
 
dubdrvrkev

dubdrvrkev

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I had the same issue but I started letting the BLO sit overnight before the major CA application, I usually do one or two light coats of thin CA pretty soon after BLO just to get a little seal on it. But after I have been letting them sit the finish has got lots better.

Back on the original topic, I MM all the way through after the CA has sat at least overnight then sometimes HUT Crystal Coat burned in with lots of friction and TSW over that after it sets a day or so.
 
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DCBluesman

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Bryan--CA or any of the polyurethane coatings are plastics with a pedigree, as are automotive clear coats. The swirl removers are extremely fine abrasives that replace visible swirls (scratches) with ones that are not visible to the un-aided eye.
 
Rifleman1776

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Griz said, "I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks". Even though I have never used boiled linseed oil on pens, it is a popular finish for gunstocks. Those who use it for that purpose know that not all brands of boiled linseed oil are created the same. Quality varies greatly between brands. Tru-Oil by Birchwood Casey is often considered the going away best on the market. What they do to make it superior, I can't say. And it is also far more expensive than the stuff you will pick up at the local hardware store. A 3 oz. bottle is about six dollars. Even the instructions that come with Tru-Oil mention clouding is possible and suggests to remove, just lightly sand with a fine paper or steel wool. Side note, boiled linseed oil is not boiled. It is treated with chemicals so as not to become sticky with time. And, no, I dunno why it's called 'boiled'.
 
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Old Griz

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Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />Griz said, "I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks". Even though I have never used boiled linseed oil on pens, it is a popular finish for gunstocks. Those who use it for that purpose know that not all brands of boiled linseed oil are created the same. Quality varies greatly between brands. Tru-Oil by Birchwood Casey is often considered the going away best on the market. What they do to make it superior, I can't say. And it is also far more expensive than the stuff you will pick up at the local hardware store. A 3 oz. bottle is about six dollars. Even the instructions that come with Tru-Oil mention clouding is possible and suggests to remove, just lightly sand with a fine paper or steel wool. Side note, boiled linseed oil is not boiled. It is treated with chemicals so as not to become sticky with time. And, no, I dunno why it's called 'boiled'.
Click to expand...

When I referred to no longer using BLO and a CA finish.. I meant in combination as a BLO\CA finish that is very popular with some...
I will still use a 50/50 cut of BLO to pop the grain of some woods and in the case of some open pored woods like walnut, I may even sand some BLO into the wood with 400 grit paper to fill the pores and pop the grain. HOWEVER, when I do use BLO to pop the grain, I also burnish dry using a piece of brown paper bag... This accomplishes two things, it dries the BLO quicker, and it gives a smoother surface to apply you overcoat onto...
I will also put a sealer coat of cellulose sanding sealer over the BLO and buff that out to 6000MM or better before applying a CA topcoat.
This seals the BLO from the CA and eliminates any possibility of clouding the CA finish.
As Frank mentioned Tru-Oil is the cat's meow for gunstock finishing... it is a polymerized boiled linseed oil that is thicker than what we see from the local BORG.. It is generally applied by hand rubbing the oil into the wood with your fingers and the palm of your hand until you can feel the heat of the friction setting the oil a bit... basically a stock makers version of friction finish.. but a lot better than what we use.. expensive and you still need to let it cure a couple of days after application.. but if done right the finish can look like glass.... but not feel like plastic...
 
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Old Griz

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I do not... repeat... do not use any BLO with the CA for the finish.... I only use straight CA when I to that type of finish.
<b>NOW THIS IS JUST MY OPINION... </b>
I believe that if you have a little too much BLO on the towel it causes a fogging in the finish.. BUT since I stopped using the BLO on the towel, I no longer get the fogging...
Lately more and more of my pieces are being done in lacquer or Enduro.... a longer process, but definately well worth the time...
 
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Fangar

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Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />I do not... repeat... do not use any BLO with the CA for the finish.... I only use straight CA when I to that type of finish.
<b>NOW THIS IS JUST MY OPINION... </b>
I believe that if you have a little too much BLO on the towel it causes a fogging in the finish.. BUT since I stopped using the BLO on the towel, I no longer get the fogging...
Lately more and more of my pieces are being done in lacquer or Enduro.... a longer process, but definately well worth the time...
Click to expand...

I'm the same way. I often apply the BLO and get to dry before I apply my CA. I also apply two or three thin coats of Thin CA first. Then I switch to medium and add several more. I find this works to get a smoother application for me. Since I stopped adding wet BLO to the CA application, my clouds have parted as well.

James
 
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