CA accident

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rtparso

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No I did not glue my finger to my ?????[:0]. I was using my usual method of applying a heavy coat of CA and burn it in with sawdust. I always knew that it got hot but a clump of the sawdust landed on the palm of my hand burned through the vinyl glove I was wearing and left two nice little blisters on my hand[xx(]. Good thing I still have a little callous left form when I used to work for a living[^].
 
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I hope you had a fire extinguisher handy. When CA cures it creates heat...potentially enough to start a fire with the fine sawdust. I'm glad to hear it was not worse than a couple of blisters, Ron. [8D]
 
OUCH!!! That is just another reason I brush off the lathe ways and surrounding area before applying the finish to my pens... I keep a soft bench brush next to the lathe to brush off the area before finishing... last thing I need is sawdust particles in the finish... or as in Ron's case embedded in HOT CA on my hand...
 
Ron, I know the feeling. I've had CA go through a thin spot in my applicator (paper towels) and burn my fingers. I even had one that the CA bonded the paper towel to my finger and I could not get it off. I had to wait until the CA finished burning my skin then I was able to slowly peel the paper towel off. I used the ways (sp?) of my lathe to help cool the burn. Ended up being a 2nd degree burn, ouch!

Ryan
 
Ouch, I'm glad everything turned out ok and the worst was only a blister.

I didn't know CA glue can cause a fire while curing! [:0] That's a awake up call![:0]
 
Ron, you've never seen CA smoke when it hits some of the shavings? Unlike Tom, I don't always remember to clean up after turning...when the CA hits some of the woods, I've seen it start to smoke.
 
and use some bacitracin or Neosporin on it.
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Heck I just but a little more CA on it. Works like a second skin. BTW Pat it dry because the moisture causes it to cure real quick and hot whish is haw I got here in the first place.
 
Glad it was only your hand. I've seen CA splash up towards my face - and have the marks on my face shield to prove it. Sometimes I think we take CA a little too lightly. It's potent stuff.

Glad it only caused a little pain. Heal quickly[:)]

Alan
 
I agree with Wayne about that being a good reason for me to be glad I'm not using CA for finishes. Unlike Wayne, however, I use Shellawax or Crystal Coat friction finishes preceded by shellac sealer and followed by Ren Wax. [8D]
 
I had another interesting CA accident. Much different than yours though. I was turning some knobs and was using CA to glue the blanks to a waste block. I used accelerator and spun the lathe up to turn. Evidentially I didn't get all the glue accelerated because it slung off the piece and went straight in my eye. (A good reason to wear safety glasses) My eye was sore for a few days, but the CA eventually dissolved away with no adverse affects. I'm lucky it didn't glue my eye shut.

Keep those glasses on.

John
 
Man! Sell your sticky stock! I bet sales are gonna drop and the stock exchange is gonna take another tumble when the word gets out about the dangers of CyanoAcrylate use by American PenTurners! [}:)] Your local congressman will propose new legislation to limit use of CA except by licensed professionals. Police will actively began closing state borders to limit unlicensed and nefarious use of CA by penmakers who are not licensed card carrying members of the CyanoGlue Guild. Get over the border and stock up now before it's too late. [}:)][}:)] REMEMBER! The CGG is looking at you![:p][}:)][:p]

======================
Thanks guys. You brought something to our attention we often take for granted! The chemicals we use can often be more dangerous than we are prepared for; but just a little preparation and awareness can make all the difference! Thanks again!
 
Originally posted by ryannmphs
<br />Ron, I know the feeling. I've had CA go through a thin spot in my applicator (paper towels) and burn my fingers. I even had one that the CA bonded the paper towel to my finger and I could not get it off. I had to wait until the CA finished burning my skin then I was able to slowly peel the paper towel off. I used the ways (sp?) of my lathe to help cool the burn. Ended up being a 2nd degree burn, ouch!

Ryan
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Ryan, if it makes you feel any better, I had the EXACT same thing happen about 2 weeks ago. As it happened, I remembered reading your post, and "felt your pain"!
 
I'm new here and was hoping I would find some more explanation about using BLO and CA as a finish. I tried it last night and after wasting close to 2 hours on it, I gave up. After reading these posts, I think I'll just forget the whole thing.
 
Gerry,
First off, welcome! Second, don't give up! Try the instructions in the Articles section of our homepage. I use BLO/CA for most of my wood pens; I'm trying to get to the point where I'm patient enough to try something else, but so far, I haven't progressed to that point. [:D] Feel free to ask questions; most of us have been in your shoes at one point or another. If you want to start a new thread, maybe we can help you figure out what's happening.
 
Originally posted by gerryr
<br />I'm new here and was hoping I would find some more explanation about using BLO and CA as a finish. I tried it last night and after <u>wasting close to 2 hours</u> on it, I gave up. After reading these posts, I think I'll just forget the whole thing.
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Only 2 hours... HECK.. most of us wasted a whole lot more time than that before we got it even half right... and I don't doubt that we spend a lot more time than that trying other finishes to find the "perfect" one...
Give it some time... read all the threads on CA finish and try again.. if that technique does not work... try another one... worst case scenario you sand the finish that does not work off and try another one...
Personally I don't use BLO with CA... I only use a straight CA finish and then only on my less expensive pens... my expensive pens get lacquer or Enduro... But that is a whole other finishing system....
 
Takes a bit of time, but I really like using the Enduro method. It has taken me a few tries to get it right, but I have it about down now. Follow Wayne's method and you'll do fine. Don't vary it! My main problem has been that I tried using foam brushes (as I saw suggested over at Yahoo penturners) rather than the Viva towels. They just don't smooth it enough, and I was having a terrible time with rings. Finally got the towels and it's MUCH better!

This thread gives me yet another reason not to even try a CA finish, though my main reason is the smell - I got lightheaded the other day just gluing up an inlay I was paying around with. I'd probably be on the floor if I tried to finish an entire pen with it! [:p] I'm not usually so sensitive to stuff. I'll still use CA for some gluing where I'm in a hurry, but I just tried poly for my tubes and my initial impression is that I'm going to keep using it.
 
Heck I spent the better part of 8 hrs once on 2 ebony pens before deciding the looked " really great " with a natural finish. There will be days that seem to go for naught, but in reality it is simply a learning curve. I once glued myself to some pieces of blanks I had stacked together not realizing ca can penetrate end grain quite well. My first hint of a problem occurred shortly after I thought my thumb was on fire. Had to soak my hand in a bucket of acetone for a little over 20 mins. to get loose. My wife thuoght that was real funny. Guess thats one reason I love her so.
Jim
 
So Ron - I tried a modified version of your method and was absolutely stunned with the finished pen.

Instead of using a bare finger, I thought I'd try a nitrile glove and see what happened. Well, the results were spectacular - my opinion of course, but as soon as I get a picture of this pen, I'll post it to the "show off your pens" forum and you can tell me what you think.

Since the glue doesn't react to the glove, the glue stays "wet" longer, allowing time to smooth the glue nicely.

I used Woodcraft's mid-viscosity "Super T" for the CA product. I found I could cover the blank with two drops and smooth it back and forth several times before it began to get tacky.

I used the lathe's slowest speed, 500 rpm. Very nice - no glue "sling", everything was predictable. A drop of CA, a few passes back and forth and just back away and watch it dry. To be on the safe side, I waited 15 minutes before touching it to give it plenty of time to dry.

Then I sanded the waves off with 400 grit and worked from 600 through 2400. Then a second coat, same procedure. Sanded a second time and polished with two rounds of HUT's Perfect Pen Polish. Just Amazing.

Bear in mind that the blank I used was nothing spectacular, a stick of Honduran Rosewood I've had for ages and used because I felt I was willing to risk losing it if the process went south. But what a nice surprise. That neglected blank looks spectacular now! Certainly one of my more beautiful pens.

Thanks to everyone for all the CA contributions, I read them all with keen intrest and I believe I've come up with a hybrid process that suits me just fine. Having tried many, many wax and lacquer finishes, I wanted something with high gloss and better durability. I've been looking for an "ultra gloss" finish for my wood pens and using this method is like hitting the jackpot.

Dan Hurd
Unionville, VA [:D]
 
Originally posted by woodguy1975
<br />I had another interesting CA accident. Much different than yours though. I was turning some knobs and was using CA to glue the blanks to a waste block. I used accelerator and spun the lathe up to turn. Evidentially I didn't get all the glue accelerated because it slung off the piece and went straight in my eye. (A good reason to wear safety glasses) My eye was sore for a few days, but the CA eventually dissolved away with no adverse affects. I'm lucky it didn't glue my eye shut.

Keep those glasses on.

John
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Now I know why I wear a full face mask. [:0][:p]
 
Ron -

So far no mishaps with the nitrile gloves. They do seem to load up and get stiff over time, so I try to remember to wipe the little CA spot off of the fingertip I use while it's still wet. That way they seem to stay clean and flexible.

So far, I've finished about 15 pens with this method and after losing one glove (the first) to buildup (it cracked!) I haven't had any trouble since.

I have a beautiful Spalted Box Elder blank turned for a HUT AmeroClassic Gold Double Twist ballpoint drying on the lathe right now (sanding sealer), so it'll get it's first coat of CA in the morning. I'm lovin' it! [;)]
 
I toss the glove after each use. But the batch of gloves I am using is 5 years old and going (gone?) bad. They are stiffer and easyer to rip then new gloves. Need to order some fresh gloves. We go through cases of them at work.
 
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