Buffing?

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David350

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2017
Messages
55
Location
Dallas, TX
I recently purchased the Beall 3 wheel buffing system for my lathe. It has Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnauba wax / wheels. I have 2 questions for those who have used buffing wheels before:

1. For acrylic pens and stoppers, what part in the finishing process do you turn to the buffing system? I have traditionally wet sanded starting at 320 to 800, and then use the 9 pad micromesh, then Novus 3-2-1. I'm wondering if I still use micromesh and then go to buffing, eliminating the Novus, etc.

2. For wood pens with a CA finish, the same question, what part of the process do you go to the buffing wheels.

Thanks in advance for any assistance, David
 

More4dan

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
1,404
Location
Katy, TX
I buff after MM with a single rouge, pink compound which is a bit finer than white diamond. The CA finish over wood leaves an acrylic finish so it gets sanded and polished the same as plastic.

Danny


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TonyL

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
6,414
Location
Alpharetta, GA 30004
Same answer for CA and non-woods. I dry sand to 2000 (Nortons or 3M), then hit the wheels. I also go a few steps finer than white diamond and don't use the wax. I use Rejex which is a synthetic wax as a protectorant. I only use MM for M3 and Trustone. There are dozens of ways to approach this. You find the one that you are most pleased with. Enjoy the wheels!
 

Chasper

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Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
1,919
Location
Indiana
For resin pens I dry sand to 600, wet sand through the full set of micro mesh, then buff with tripoli, Caswell P22 and Caswell P37 in that order. Often I skip the tripoli. If the resin is Aluminite I add a coat of Plastix Polish.

For wood and antler pens, sand to 400 and immediately after applying the final coat of CA (I really mean immediately, while the CA is still hot) I buff with Caswell P37. I add a coat of Plastix Polish on antler
 
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