Brass Section Finished

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

AdventiveIowa

Member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Los Angeles California
I finally finished the section for my Brass pen. It came out really well, and I’ve been starting to get the hang of turning again. It’s been fun, I can’t wait to make the body and cap to go with it.

I used an Edison #6 nib (AKA a Jowo #6, bought from Goulet Pens). I smoothed it out with some 0000 Steel Wool, and made it shine with a cleaning grease my Father-in-law showed me. Very happy with the results, not sure if I should’ve gone for a smoother finish though.

-Hank
253c87c1674d4ca973c83ec73eef737d.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

AdventiveIowa

Member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Los Angeles California
Nice. I really like the shape of your section and can't wait to see the rest of the pen when you are done.

Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. I just tried to fit a converter into it this morning and realized it doesn’t retain the converter, so I may end up needing to remake it... I’m gonna take a close look at the dimensions as machined and see if I can figure out a workaround. I may make the ID a bit bigger to take a Pilot cartridge instead of an international converter (I have a bunch of empty Pilot cartridges lying around).

-Hank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

anthonyd

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Messages
308
Location
Ancaster ON Canada
What holds the converter is the friction fit with the little plastic bit at the end of the nib unit. Try drilling your section a little deeper (on the end where the converter goes in) until you get good engagement with the converter. This should save you from making a new section.

Tony
 

AdventiveIowa

Member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Los Angeles California
So i rested the converter fit with the nib unit and there was little to no holding friction, so I ended up wrapping a piece of tape around the converter to get a friction fit with the housing instead.

-Hank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

magpens

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
13,604
Location
Coquitlam, BC, Canada
@AdventiveIowa
Hi Hank,
You said, " Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. "
Do you have a special tool for cutting the internal taper ? .
Would appreciate any comments you can make about making that taper, please.
Thanks.
 

darrin1200

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
1,265
Location
Lyn, Ontario, Canada
What drill did you use in the rear of the section. Mine is tight enough, that It goes over the nib in the section, but is also a friction fit to the back of the section. It is close, but works because the converter walls have a little give.
You might want to take a bit that is smaller than you expect. When you drill out plastic, there is a little bit of spring back from the, relatively soft, material. Resulting in a smaller hole than if you used the same drill in brass.
Won’t fix this section, but its a step to the next.
 

More4dan

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
2,070
Location
Katy, TX
Schmidt makes a threaded converter, the K6 that might work too.

I’ve started making my section a little longer past the section threads so there is a longer overlap with the converter. It gives it better support and more contact area.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 

AdventiveIowa

Member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Los Angeles California
@AdventiveIowa
Hi Hank,
You said, " Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. "
Do you have a special tool for cutting the internal taper ? .
Would appreciate any comments you can make about making that taper, please.
Thanks.

It’s just the external taper, there’s no internal taper. I used the compound axis on the lathe I’ve got, I just set it to 1.5 degrees and ran it back and forth real slow. There’s a few different methods I’ve seen for creating tapers but this one was the most easily available to me.

-Hank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AdventiveIowa

Member
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Los Angeles California
What drill did you use in the rear of the section. Mine is tight enough, that It goes over the nib in the section, but is also a friction fit to the back of the section. It is close, but works because the converter walls have a little give.
You might want to take a bit that is smaller than you expect. When you drill out plastic, there is a little bit of spring back from the, relatively soft, material. Resulting in a smaller hole than if you used the same drill in brass.
Won’t fix this section, but its a step to the next.

Looking back at my notes, looks like it was a J letter drill bit on the back end. I’m using a tutorial as the basis for my pen written by watch_art, and that’s his recommendation.

That’s a good point about the spring back in plastic: I might try to find a slightly smaller drill bit next time, or take Dan’s suggestion and thread it for a Schmidt converter.

-Hank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top Bottom