Brass Section Finished

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AdventiveIowa

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May 2, 2020
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I finally finished the section for my Brass pen. It came out really well, and I've been starting to get the hang of turning again. It's been fun, I can't wait to make the body and cap to go with it.

I used an Edison #6 nib (AKA a Jowo #6, bought from Goulet Pens). I smoothed it out with some 0000 Steel Wool, and made it shine with a cleaning grease my Father-in-law showed me. Very happy with the results, not sure if I should've gone for a smoother finish though.

-Hank
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AdventiveIowa

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Nice. I really like the shape of your section and can't wait to see the rest of the pen when you are done.

Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. I just tried to fit a converter into it this morning and realized it doesn't retain the converter, so I may end up needing to remake it... I'm gonna take a close look at the dimensions as machined and see if I can figure out a workaround. I may make the ID a bit bigger to take a Pilot cartridge instead of an international converter (I have a bunch of empty Pilot cartridges lying around).

-Hank


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anthonyd

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What holds the converter is the friction fit with the little plastic bit at the end of the nib unit. Try drilling your section a little deeper (on the end where the converter goes in) until you get good engagement with the converter. This should save you from making a new section.

Tony
 

AdventiveIowa

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So i rested the converter fit with the nib unit and there was little to no holding friction, so I ended up wrapping a piece of tape around the converter to get a friction fit with the housing instead.

-Hank


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magpens

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@AdventiveIowa
Hi Hank,
You said, " Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. "
Do you have a special tool for cutting the internal taper ? .
Would appreciate any comments you can make about making that taper, please.
Thanks.
 

darrin1200

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Lyn, Ontario, Canada
What drill did you use in the rear of the section. Mine is tight enough, that It goes over the nib in the section, but is also a friction fit to the back of the section. It is close, but works because the converter walls have a little give.
You might want to take a bit that is smaller than you expect. When you drill out plastic, there is a little bit of spring back from the, relatively soft, material. Resulting in a smaller hole than if you used the same drill in brass.
Won't fix this section, but its a step to the next.
 

More4dan

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Mar 17, 2016
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Katy, TX
Schmidt makes a threaded converter, the K6 that might work too.

I've started making my section a little longer past the section threads so there is a longer overlap with the converter. It gives it better support and more contact area.

Danny


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AdventiveIowa

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@AdventiveIowa
Hi Hank,
You said, " Thanks, I think the taper came out really well. "
Do you have a special tool for cutting the internal taper ? .
Would appreciate any comments you can make about making that taper, please.
Thanks.

It's just the external taper, there's no internal taper. I used the compound axis on the lathe I've got, I just set it to 1.5 degrees and ran it back and forth real slow. There's a few different methods I've seen for creating tapers but this one was the most easily available to me.

-Hank


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AdventiveIowa

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What drill did you use in the rear of the section. Mine is tight enough, that It goes over the nib in the section, but is also a friction fit to the back of the section. It is close, but works because the converter walls have a little give.
You might want to take a bit that is smaller than you expect. When you drill out plastic, there is a little bit of spring back from the, relatively soft, material. Resulting in a smaller hole than if you used the same drill in brass.
Won't fix this section, but its a step to the next.

Looking back at my notes, looks like it was a J letter drill bit on the back end. I'm using a tutorial as the basis for my pen written by watch_art, and that's his recommendation.

That's a good point about the spring back in plastic: I might try to find a slightly smaller drill bit next time, or take Dan's suggestion and thread it for a Schmidt converter.

-Hank


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