We haven't worked with blood wood up until now, and I have to say I'm a fan. Beautiful burnt orange coloring with darker grain that the ebonite seems to complement. This one has no inlay, but features a sleek modern look with ebonite rings at body and cap that highlight the beautiful wood coloration and grain.
The sleeves run all the way up into the body and cap. This is to help protect from ink leakage leaching into the wood as well to protect the nib from drying out.
The sleeves run all the way up into the body and cap. This is to help protect from ink leakage leaching into the wood as well to protect the nib from drying out.
Stunning combination! I have turned a few Bloodwood pens, but nothing kitless (yet).
If you are looking to try some different woods and don't want to commit to buying whole boards, I have found WoodShopGas on ebay to be reasonably priced and you can buy what exactly what you want, species, quantity and he ships quickly. He has some Birdseye Bloodwood. It doesn't have the density of birds eyes that maple can, but it is still pretty cool.
I have only just begun my journey into kitless, so I hope you don't mind a few questions for you (sorry in advance):
Do you sleeve the wood with solid ebonite first and then cut & thread the tenon/drill and tap bores? Or do you do all that first and then glue in the sleeves?
Looks like CA finish, how do you treat the ebonite portions, do you just CA over turned/sanded ebonite and then polish the whole body/cap or is there special treatment/process. So far, I have only used ebonite for making sections.
Are you doing all of this on a wood lathe?
The one kitless pen I made with a hybrid blank, I used the Alumilite portions for the threading and tapping. To try to protect and seal the wood inside the body and cap, and to keep the nib from drying out, I used thin CA to soak/seal the inside of the body and cap. It seems to have worked pretty well.
Stunning combination! I have turned a few Bloodwood pens, but nothing kitless (yet).
If you are looking to try some different woods and don't want to commit to buying whole boards, I have found WoodShopGas on ebay to be reasonably priced and you can buy what exactly what you want, species, quantity and he ships quickly. He has some Birdseye Bloodwood. It doesn't have the density of birds eyes that maple can, but it is still pretty cool.
I have only just begun my journey into kitless, so I hope you don't mind a few questions for you (sorry in advance):
Do you sleeve the wood with solid ebonite first and then cut & thread the tenon/drill and tap bores? Or do you do all that first and then glue in the sleeves?
Looks like CA finish, how do you treat the ebonite portions, do you just CA over turned/sanded ebonite and then polish the whole body/cap or is there special treatment/process. So far, I have only used ebonite for making sections.
Are you doing all of this on a wood lathe?
The one kitless pen I made with a hybrid blank, I used the Alumilite portions for the threading and tapping. To try to protect and seal the wood inside the body and cap, and to keep the nib from drying out, I used thin CA to soak/seal the inside of the body and cap. It seems to have worked pretty well.
First off, you are correct in your spelling, Bloodwood is all one word. Oops!
1) We drill the ebonite as per a usual pen, then epoxy in place. I'm not sure if that's the right way, but works for us.
2) The ebonite portions are treated just like the wood. You can do the section that way as well, but I've read that buffing makes a big difference with ebonite. I don't have a buffing wheel though so I do the best I can.
3) Yes, wood lathe.
I love Bloodwood... but it is one of the timbers that I am allergic too. I have gifted most of my stock away. Excellent finished pen, I love the mix of materials and the finish is superb! Thanks for sharing.
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.
However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.
However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.
Bloodwood should be pure red and it is but it depends where it was harvested. Also is it from South America. There is bloodwood that also is called Satine and is more brownish than true bloodwood. I have boards that are deep red and true bloodwood. But whenever I ordered turning stock bloodwood they sent Satine which is not even close to red. Redheart has streaks of brown through it and over time will turn brown just as Padauk does but that is more orange red. Redheart also known as Chakte Kok comes from Souther Mexico and again when harvested and where play a role.
Here is a bloodwood and maple pen and it is as red as the day I turned it.
Here is an example of Redheart and it too has stayed this color but see very little direct sunlight.
We purchased the Bloodwood from the local lumber supplier, I'm not sure where it may have been harvested, but clearly doesn't look anything like yours. The grain does look the same to me though. Hmmm?
We purchased the Bloodwood from the local lumber supplier, I'm not sure where it may have been harvested, but clearly doesn't look anything like yours. The grain does look the same to me though. Hmmm?
I can show you true bloodwood boards that are a deep red and wil always stay that way. Plus bloodwood is a hard heavy dense wood. Man when cutting and sanding that stuff you better have a good vac system because that red will stain and get all over the place. Do not ask how I know. Someone told me.
I can show you true bloodwood boards that are a deep red and wil always stay that way. Plus bloodwood is a hard heavy dense wood. Man when cutting and sanding that stuff you better have a good vac system because that red will stain and get all over the place. Do not ask how I know. Someone told me.
The end grain where it was parted off and subjected to heat is more red and closer to the red that others are showing. The grain is the same and it was hard. According to the wood data base "the heartwood is bright vivid red that can darken to dark brownish red over time."
The sleeves run all the way up into the body and cap. This is to help protect from ink leakage leaching into the wood as well to protect the nib from drying out.
Bloodwood should be pure red and it is but it depends where it was harvested. Also is it from South America. There is bloodwood that also is called Satine and is more brownish than true bloodwood. I have boards that are deep red and true bloodwood. But whenever I ordered turning stock bloodwood they sent Satine which is not even close to red. Redheart has streaks of brown through it and over time will turn brown just as Padauk does but that is more orange red. Redheart also known as Chakte Kok comes from Souther Mexico and again when harvested and where play a role.
Here is a bloodwood and maple pen and it is as red as the day I turned it.
Yes it is. Scrolling is my first and long time passion and hobby. That piece is done with Redheart and red oak and the overlay is bright brass. There is red stain glass within the steps behind the fret work. All cut on a scrollsaw. Thanks for the kind words.
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.
However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.
I have a bloodwood board I bought from Cook last year or maybe 2 years ago. More brownish red than a true red.
Reminds me a bit of how purpleheart browns after a while. Still, a beautiful wood.
I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
I got started with pen turning while living in Japan, and had access to quite a bit of exotic woods - mostly at a chain hobby store called Tokyu-Hands. LOTS of exotics there. Plus I had access to some of my American woods. Technically I was not supposed to bring any over, but they were planned 4 sides and 7 ft long (fit in my crate) and I listed them as unfinished book shelves. It sure was nice. In the Mid-South, Memphis - Jackson MS, it is hard to find exotics and non-southern woods. I get my exotics when I go to visit my daughter in Missouri, or other daughter in Dallas.
Yes it is. Scrolling is my first and long time passion and hobby. That piece is done with Redheart and red oak and the overlay is bright brass. There is red stain glass within the steps behind the fret work. All cut on a scrollsaw. Thanks for the kind words.
I have a bloodwood board I bought from Cook last year or maybe 2 years ago. More brownish red than a true red.
Reminds me a bit of how purpleheart browns after a while. Still, a beautiful wood.
I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.
However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.
I have been there a couple of times. I couldn't remember the name off hand, until you named it. I'll be visiting there before Christmas when I go to visit my daughter in Ozark.