montmill
Member
The directions I found on Berea's site say to use an 11/32 drill bit. The opening seems pretty large and the fit of the brass was loose. I'm hoping the epoxy will hold ok. What has been your experience making the Blade kit?
Blade Kit Hole
- Thread starter montmill
- Start date
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monophoto
Member
Suggestion - using calipers, measure both the drill bit and the pen tube. Its possible that the bit is mismarked, or that you grabbed the wrong bit. It is also possible that the tube you have is undersized. In other words, check everything - don't assume that anything is what is says it is.
You could also drill a hole in a scrap of wood to test fit the tube. But that only helps if you are sure that the tube is the correct size.
How are you drilling the blank? Is it possible that your bit isn't centered in the drill chuck? In that case, the bit will wobble and drill a hole that is larger than the bit. The same thing can happen if you are drilling on the lathe and your tailstock isn't aligned with the axis of the headstock.
You could also drill a hole in a scrap of wood to test fit the tube. But that only helps if you are sure that the tube is the correct size.
How are you drilling the blank? Is it possible that your bit isn't centered in the drill chuck? In that case, the bit will wobble and drill a hole that is larger than the bit. The same thing can happen if you are drilling on the lathe and your tailstock isn't aligned with the axis of the headstock.
qquake
Member
KMCloonan
Member
I sometimes pre-measure the tube and compare to the prescribed drill bit. If the bit seems too large or small, I use my drill bit diameter reference chart that came with my drill bit set, and sometimes choose a Letter drill bit, or a metric bit that is closer to the pen tube diameter. I then write this info in the instructions sheet for the next time.
Woodchipper
Member
KMCloonan, good idea. I have a portable file box. I printed off the instructions for every pen I make or will make. I add notes when necessary as you suggest. Saves time, frustration and trying to work while the air has a blue cloud.
Gregf
Member
I learned the hard way to always double check the tube and drill bit with digital caliper.
montmill
Member
It looks like it was a poor job of drilling. I will start with a starter center, then a jobber bit, then finish with the longer bit. It's a long tube and looking closely it's obviously wobble that enlarged the hole. Thanks for the feedback.
qquake
Member
I use this chart online:
KMCloonan
Member
Thanks!
Mike
Member
Are the bits in the link below what you are referring to? I sometimes have difficulty with twist drills starting off center when using the lathe for drilling blanks and it wobbles all the way in. Seems like it could cause more heat build up and definitely a slightly larger hole. Brad points are better about staying staying centered.
Do centering bits start better in end grain? I know if the bit is going into a hard layer of the wood it will move over into the softer layer next to it. It also happens on the drill press even when a punch is used.
I think I will buy a set of these and try them, they are fairly inexpensive.
Center Drill Countersink Set, 5 Piece
Amazing deals on this 5Pc Center Drill Countersink Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike
Member
An ignorant guy question, why is that pen called a blade point? Beautiful pen btw.
Mike
Mike
qquake
Member
Do you use a vise to hold the blank when drilling?
egnald
Member
Are the bits in the link below what you are referring to? I sometimes have difficulty with twist drills starting off center when using the lathe for drilling blanks and it wobbles all the way in. Seems like it could cause more heat build up and definitely a slightly larger hole. Brad points are better about staying staying centered.
Do centering bits start better in end grain? I know if the bit is going into a hard layer of the wood it will move over into the softer layer next to it. It also happens on the drill press even when a punch is used.
I think I will buy a set of these and try them, they are fairly inexpensive.
Center Drill Countersink Set, 5 Piece
Amazing deals on this 5Pc Center Drill Countersink Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
Thanks,
Mike
These should certainly help with the starting off center problem.
Center Drills are designed to serve two purposes. First of all, they are short and have a relatively large diameter shaft with a narrower point. These makes it more rigid and less capable of flexing when entering a material that has varying densities - like wood. Thy also have a cutting taper between the shaft and the point which can serve as a countersink.
Using a center drill to make a starter hole helps keep the regular drill on track because it reduces the contact surface of the regular drill which reduces catching and grabbing making it also less prone to flexing even though it is longer.
Whenever possible, and practical, like for drilling holes for tapping threads, I use Screw Machine-Length drills. Like Center Drills, they are shorter and therefore more rigid, mitigating deflection. The trade off of course is that they can only drill to a certain and shorter depth than the most common, Jobber-Length, drill bits.
Regards,
Dave
Mike
Member
Yes, and when using the drill press if the blank moved a fraction, it never caused me to lose a blank. Have not lost a blank on the lathe either, but thought I was going to because of enlarged hole. I am just a little OCD and want everything to go as perceived perfect by me.
I have not made as many pens as most of the people on here. I have many small projects I do around the house for myself and my wife. Have not turned anything in a few months, but am getting back to it this week. I am not in a hurry and am just enjoying retirement.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike
Member
Thanks, Dave.
I am going to pick up a set of these today. I only have a couple more small projects and I will be turning pens again. I just finished a small job modifying my outdoor griddle to hinge the aftermarket cover and these would have been very handy.
I am going to look at options and try to find some that are better quality. Do you have a recommendation?
I buy tools and supplies at HF, but I think I will be using these often in wood and metal so would pay more for more durable.
Thanks,
Mike
I have been using the Harbor Freight ones for years. They have worked well and I wouldn't even dream of drilling a segmented blank without them. For what it's worth, I drill all my blanks on the lathe.
Mike
Member
I quit drilling blanks on the drill press last year and only use the lathe now. Much better control. It does take a little longer but I am not in a hurry. I am going to pick up a set of these bits at HF today. Driving right by there on another errand. I am a long way from segmented blanks or bespoke pens. I need to get some pics on here, but I am a terrible photographer. Will get my wife to take some pics for me at some point.
Did not mean to change the thread topic.
Mike
egnald
Member
I just bought inexpensive ones. I can't remember if it was Harbor Freight or just something inexpensive from eBay. For most of my bits and stuff I go with McMaster Carr or Grainger. - Dave
Mike
Member
I picked up the HF bit set. I used one to pre-drill a bocote blank this past weekend and it centered perfectly. Will be pre-drilling with centering bit going forward. It did not heat up either.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike