Birdseye Maple Cane

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Dalecamino

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My first item turned on a lathe aside from a pen . Got the blank from Bellforest Products . The hardware is from CSUSA , and I finished the wood with friction polish also from CSUSA . I eliminated the bushings and turned it as one piece . By not having a center support , I had to sand it as opposed turn using tools . Thanks for looking . Any comments are welcomed . Sorry for the poor photography .
 

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Thank you all . This cane is for my cousin . He has collected canes and walking sticks from all over the world , and I noticed that none of them were light colored wood . So , I thought I would fix him up . :wink:
 
If you ever do another one look into a steady rest so you can use your turning tools and hopefully make it a little easier on yourself.

Either way though..beautiful piece.
 
Very fine job. That is beautiful and unique, I'm sure it will be appreciated.
The few canes I have made proved near impossible to turn, even with a steady rest.
Just too long and slender. I first cut down with a draw knife, then, like you, did the final work with sanding on the lathe. Tedious but possible.
Another approach is to use couplings and turn shorter sections.
 
Thank you all for the kind words . Being my first cane , and a gift that probably never be used by it's intended recipient , I simply guessed at a suitable length . Maybe someone who knows how this is done can answer the question .
 
Turning canes!

Thank you all for the kind words . Being my first cane , and a gift that probably never be used by it's intended recipient , I simply guessed at a suitable length . Maybe someone who knows how this is done can answer the question .

I'm certainly no expert, but several years ago I made several. I turned them on a Crafsman lathe the had a 48" bed, and made them of various lengths. For my own use, I stood with my hand at my side, andwith my wrist bent at 90 degrees measured to the floor from my palm. This distance will vary with each individual, and I don't know that it is right, I just know it works for me.
I never had any sucess with the joyned canes, as they were never straight the way I made them, and they tended to loosen up with the vibration of walking.
Mr. bell has some truly outstanding figured maple, and would certainly appreciate your posting your pictures on thier website, (www.bellforestproducts.com). Our AAW turning club meets there and I always come home with more turning wood :smile:
WS (Bob)
 
I'm certainly no expert, but several years ago I made several. I turned them on a Crafsman lathe the had a 48" bed, and made them of various lengths. For my own use, I stood with my hand at my side, andwith my wrist bent at 90 degrees measured to the floor from my palm. This distance will vary with each individual, and I don't know that it is right, I just know it works for me.
I never had any sucess with the joyned canes, as they were never straight the way I made them, and they tended to loosen up with the vibration of walking.
Mr. bell has some truly outstanding figured maple, and would certainly appreciate your posting your pictures on thier website, (www.bellforestproducts.com). Our AAW turning club meets there and I always come home with more turning wood :smile:
WS (Bob)
Bob Thanks . That's pretty much what I did , and considered my cousin is 3 inches shorter than me . I have some pen photos posted on the Bellforest forum . And plan to send these photos to them . Not sure if they're good enough quality . Nice folks over there . Thanks for the comments .
 
I have made a few and from what I researched you should have the customer stand straight with hands down at his/her sides and mark the length at the wrist.

Total hight of the cane (Where the hand will rest) should hit the customer at the wrist so when they lean over they have good support. Too low they have to lean over too much and could fall, Too high and they may not have the arm strength to help hold themselves.

But my mom liked hers a little bit higher. I guess it would be a comfort thing.
 
I have made a few and from what I researched you should have the customer stand straight with hands down at his/her sides and mark the length at the wrist.

Total hight of the cane (Where the hand will rest) should hit the customer at the wrist so when they lean over they have good support. Too low they have to lean over too much and could fall, Too high and they may not have the arm strength to help hold themselves.

But my mom liked hers a little bit higher. I guess it would be a comfort thing.

Thanks Lupe and everyone else, that gives me a good idea of length. I've got a carved eagle head cane project in the new year.
 
Very nice job Chuck. A question, if I may. How do you determine the length of a cane for a specific person?

Very good question. I believe most canes made, and used, are too long for the person using them. I have made myself two canes (for future use, if ever) and they are shorter than 'store bought'. They fit me and I like them.
BTW, one has a nearly 1" hickory shaft and an antique brass tip from a horse hame. It is heavy and stout. I call it my 'New Orleans walking stick'.
 
Good information Frank . I saw on a TV show decades ago , that a good walking stick was indeed made from Hickory , because it was stout . I may put one of those in order .
 
A little long, yes!

Hi Larry..measure from bent palm of hand while it is straight down your side..better to make them too long than too short!!!
Having walked with one for a few years, the method I suggested works pretty well. I'm sure that the orthopedic people are mjch more scientific about it. :smile:
WS (Bob)
 
Having walked with one for a few years, the method I suggested works pretty well. I'm sure that the orthopedic people are mjch more scientific about it. :smile:
WS (Bob)

Thanks Bob. Sounds like your the man with the experience. I'm going to start with one using your advise but just a ball end for a test before I go through with the carved one. With that problem solved I still have to pick the material for the eagle's beak. The design I have in mind exposes the sharp beak to possible peril should the cane fall over.
 
Eagles head?

Thanks Bob. Sounds like your the man with the experience. I'm going to start with one using your advise but just a ball end for a test before I go through with the carved one. With that problem solved I still have to pick the material for the eagle's beak. The design I have in mind exposes the sharp beak to possible peril should the cane fall over.
Larry,
When I started making canes I used several of the CUSA heads, and found that the only one comfortable was the curved T head. I put quite a bit of preassure on my cane hand, and those other CSUSA shapes can hurt a lot afeter a very short time. If you can make the head in the form of the two T handles already posted here I'm sure it will work. I think the most uncomfortable I have used is the steam bent "drug store" cane.:peace:
WS (Bob)
 
My first item turned on a lathe aside from a pen . Got the blank from Bellforest Products . The hardware is from CSUSA , and I finished the wood with friction polish also from CSUSA . I eliminated the bushings and turned it as one piece . By not having a center support , I had to sand it as opposed turn using tools . Thanks for looking . Any comments are welcomed . Sorry for the poor photography .
Beautiful. Absolutely beautiful. Love that BEM.
 
Hey thanks. I appreciate this. I'm not going to turn the dowel. Only the ends. Are you saying the 1.25 is slightly over 1" not 1.25. That would be ok with me.
No...I'm saying the 1" is slightly over 1" But that's what I got, a 1" dowel and all I had to do was sand it, and finish it, and fit the hardware on the ends.
 
No...I'm saying the 1" is slightly over 1" But that's what I got, a 1" dowel and all I had to do was sand it, and finish it, and fit the hardware on the ends.
ok... perfect... just want to sand / finish. Maybe some burn lines and inlays eventually. 1' is perfect. I'm ordering.
 
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