Best for cutting segments?

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Each can be used, but the most accurate is probably the table saw with a good jig. The bandsaw tends to leave saw marks which can affect accuracy. However, a good sled and the right blade will alleviate most of that.
 
Tablesaw by far from my point a view. A solid true consistant blade compared to a bandsaw. Even with sleds I am not a fan of doing segments with it. Others may have found to be sufficient so this is just my opinion. Also a sled that can do exact repetative cuts. Plus just as important a zero clearance plate of some sort. With a sled you can make it so that is easily replacable. I can not stress that factor more because of tear out and believe me it can show if doing exacting segmentation. If you are doing basic oops bands like that then a good sanding station can work just as well. As mentioned my opinions only.
 
Depends on the tool and the user.
I had a Laguna LT-16 with a 1-1/4" resaw blade which would rip 1/8" slices without burning or wavering when set properly.

I have a Delta Unisaw which will pass the nickel test using a dime and with a jig, it's as accurate as can be.

Years ago, I made a jig for a Craftsman contractor TS (the old Emerson Electric design). I made numerous celtic knot blanks and pens with it.

However, you can have a great saw, like the Unisaw and a crappy blade which flexes and you can obtain burning, wavering and other defects in the cuts.
Or, your jig can be sloppy in the tracks and allow your cuts to wander.

Is there a specific problem you're trying to solve?
 
Blades for what? Again your question leads to more questions. What is it are you trying to do? What materials are you cutting. Are you inlaying segments of different thickness. More teeth the smoother the cut. 1/2 or 3/8" blade is a good size to work segments with a bandsaw.. Unless you are doing curves within the blank than a thinner blade is needed. Tablesaw, 60 tooth is a good starting point. I like to use FGT blades so that maybe a problem getting to that high a tooth count. You would have to get a 40 tooth blade. I like the Freud line tablesaw blades. Well tuned machine with an accurate sled will get the job done.
 
I use a table saw with a 7-1/4" fine tooth blade mounted. This cuts a thinner kerf about .075". You have to cut slowly because the blade tends to vibrate (sing) if you push it. That and a jig works well.
 
jttheclockman said:
Blades for what? Again your question leads to more questions. What is it are you trying to do? What materials are you cutting. Are you inlaying segments of different thickness. More teeth the smoother the cut. 1/2 or 3/8" blade is a good size to work segments with a bandsaw.. Unless you are doing curves within the blank than a thinner blade is needed. Tablesaw, 60 tooth is a good starting point. I like to use FGT blades so that maybe a problem getting to that high a tooth count. You would have to get a 40 tooth blade. I like the Freud line tablesaw blades. Well tuned machine with an accurate sled will get the job done.
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Cut pieces for pen blanks. Wood.
 
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