Best for cutting segments?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Woodchipper

Woodchipper

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
7,448
Location
Cleveland, TN
Have a new bandsaw, an old bandsaw and an old table saw. I can make a jig for either one. Which is considered the most accurate or does it matter?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Each can be used, but the most accurate is probably the table saw with a good jig. The bandsaw tends to leave saw marks which can affect accuracy. However, a good sled and the right blade will alleviate most of that.
 
Tablesaw by far from my point a view. A solid true consistant blade compared to a bandsaw. Even with sleds I am not a fan of doing segments with it. Others may have found to be sufficient so this is just my opinion. Also a sled that can do exact repetative cuts. Plus just as important a zero clearance plate of some sort. With a sled you can make it so that is easily replacable. I can not stress that factor more because of tear out and believe me it can show if doing exacting segmentation. If you are doing basic oops bands like that then a good sanding station can work just as well. As mentioned my opinions only.
 
Depends on the tool and the user.
I had a Laguna LT-16 with a 1-1/4" resaw blade which would rip 1/8" slices without burning or wavering when set properly.

I have a Delta Unisaw which will pass the nickel test using a dime and with a jig, it's as accurate as can be.

Years ago, I made a jig for a Craftsman contractor TS (the old Emerson Electric design). I made numerous celtic knot blanks and pens with it.

However, you can have a great saw, like the Unisaw and a crappy blade which flexes and you can obtain burning, wavering and other defects in the cuts.
Or, your jig can be sloppy in the tracks and allow your cuts to wander.

Is there a specific problem you're trying to solve?
 
Blades for what? Again your question leads to more questions. What is it are you trying to do? What materials are you cutting. Are you inlaying segments of different thickness. More teeth the smoother the cut. 1/2 or 3/8" blade is a good size to work segments with a bandsaw.. Unless you are doing curves within the blank than a thinner blade is needed. Tablesaw, 60 tooth is a good starting point. I like to use FGT blades so that maybe a problem getting to that high a tooth count. You would have to get a 40 tooth blade. I like the Freud line tablesaw blades. Well tuned machine with an accurate sled will get the job done.
 
I use a table saw with a 7-1/4" fine tooth blade mounted. This cuts a thinner kerf about .075". You have to cut slowly because the blade tends to vibrate (sing) if you push it. That and a jig works well.
 
jttheclockman said:
Blades for what? Again your question leads to more questions. What is it are you trying to do? What materials are you cutting. Are you inlaying segments of different thickness. More teeth the smoother the cut. 1/2 or 3/8" blade is a good size to work segments with a bandsaw.. Unless you are doing curves within the blank than a thinner blade is needed. Tablesaw, 60 tooth is a good starting point. I like to use FGT blades so that maybe a problem getting to that high a tooth count. You would have to get a 40 tooth blade. I like the Freud line tablesaw blades. Well tuned machine with an accurate sled will get the job done.
Click to expand...
Cut pieces for pen blanks. Wood.
 
Woodchipper said:
Cut pieces for pen blanks. Wood.
Click to expand...
John
This doesn't really answer the questions we're asking to attempt to help you.

For instance, I recall (I did double check) your TS is the ryobi without the tracks most saws have for sleds. This makes any solution more complicated.
Cut pieces: a straight, chop cut is different than a rip cut and both are different than a beveled or mitered cut.
Some suggest a thin kerf blade but now you're introducing the possibility of blade flex.
I prefer a full size high quality carbide tipped blade which isn't going to flex regardless of which cut I'm making because, in the big scheme of things, the amount of wood used in a pen blank is minimal and inexpensive.
Also, how the wood is held matters.
On my Celtic Knot sled, I used sacrificial wood screw style clamps. The blade knicks the front clamp but the piece being cut doesn't move at all so I get a perfect cut where I want it.
If you can find the Stehle TS blades, they're excellent. I typically end up with Diablo blades 'cause they're readily available but I have many others too. For furniture, I have an older Forrest — when they were almost affordable; I don't see the need for it for pens.

So, please layout a few specific details as to what you're looking to create using segmentation. There's lots of general advice which will lead you towards your goals but
the devil is in the details.
 
Gary, pondered your reply. I have a 60 tooth ATB on the chop saw. Looked in the TS cabinet and I found a 150 tooth, 7-1/4 inch blade but no carbide tips. Ryobi table saw is at the top of my buyer's remorse list.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom