Barrel trimming question.

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aprayinbear

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Noobie question....:rolleyes:

I have a standard 7mm barrel trimmer. Do I need larger cutting shafts (for larger holes) if I am using a dedicated chuck to hold the barrel and a drill chuck in the tailstock to hold the trimmer? Seems like the lathe should line up the barrel and cutter just fine.

I know about making sleeves, but if I can do without, all the better.

Happy Turning!:bulgy-eyes:
 
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I would make sleeves. They are easy to make, only take a few minutes, and make absolutely certain the ends are square to the tube. I also use them on my little sanding tool to dress the ends just before assembly. (they are also handy as spacers on the mandrel when sanding and finishing only one blank.)
 
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If you hold the barrel in a chuck and put the trimmer in the tailstock, the ends will be square to the barrel, not the tube. You need the ends to be square to the barrel or the hardware will not close tight to the barrel.

I'm editing because it occurred to me that if you hold the blank in a chuck and the tube is not square to the blank, the trimmer in the tailstock will not go into the tube, as it will be at an angle to the ways of the lathe.
 
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I learned here that the best way to do it,is to screw a flat piece of wood onto your faceplate that comes with most lathes.Turn it round,then affix sandpaper to the faceplate block.Then get the inexpensive transfer punch set from Harbor Freight that fits all the different tube sizes perfectly.put that into a chuck in the tailstock and you are all set.

I'm always in a hurry so I got some super-coarse 36 grit heavy paper disc that I cut to fit.These are easy to keep from clogging up.I use that to take the majority off,then switch over to a 120 grit one to put a finer finish on.

Ever since I went with this method,no more problems with blowing up blanks with a barrel trimmer & it's just as quick once you get used to it, & it's as accurate as can be since it's squared to the tube.

Steve
 
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I glued some 7mm tubes in some Walnut blanks, squared the ends, and turned them to the size of the Sierra, Jr series, Orion....etc. I then use a Sharpie and write what they fit.
 
aprayinbear said:
Noobie question....:rolleyes:

I have a standard 7mm barrel trimmer. Do I need larger cutting shafts (for larger holes) if I am using a dedicated chuck to hold the barrel and a drill chuck in the tailstock to hold the trimmer? Seems like the lathe should line up the barrel and cutter just fine.
Click to expand...

Yes
 
One last thought.

Jim.... I'm not sure which part of my question you are saying yes to. It still seems that as long as I drill my barrels true (with no drift) a sleeve shouldn't be necessary. On the other hand, turning sleeves to fit specific hole sizes means more turning and I'm always up for the practice.

Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions:glasses-nerdy:
 
Do as ossaguy does and you wont need all those sleeves and trimmers and such.
I use a disc sander to get ends close to the tube as possiable(dont have a jig) then i do the same as ossaguy does. The ends are square to the components when done.
 
aprayinbear said:
Jim.... I'm not sure which part of my question you are saying yes to. It still seems that as long as I drill my barrels true (with no drift) a sleeve shouldn't be necessary. On the other hand, turning sleeves to fit specific hole sizes means more turning and I'm always up for the practice.

Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions:glasses-nerdy:
Click to expand...

Always try to use the correct size barrel adaptor. It also helps clean the inside of the barrel. If you use a 7mm trimmer on a Jr Gent II cap...the bushing will not fit! So yes...use the correct size to fit the tube. There are other methods...this is just the one I use.
 
What a great solution!

Sharon


ossaguy said:
I learned here that the best way to do it,is to screw a flat piece of wood onto your faceplate that comes with most lathes.Turn it round,then affix sandpaper to the faceplate block.Then get the inexpensive transfer punch set from Harbor Freight that fits all the different tube sizes perfectly.put that into a chuck in the tailstock and you are all set.

I'm always in a hurry so I got some super-coarse 36 grit heavy paper disc that I cut to fit.These are easy to keep from clogging up.I use that to take the majority off,then switch over to a 120 grit one to put a finer finish on.

Ever since I went with this method,no more problems with blowing up blanks with a barrel trimmer & it's just as quick once you get used to it, & it's as accurate as can be since it's squared to the tube.

Steve
Click to expand...
 
Question for Ossaguy.

I like your method as well...

My only question is, how do you attach the sand paper to the block?

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Ossaguys method is pretty darn good.

I will try it if I ever stop getting satisfactory results with my belt / disk sander.

You can get adhesive sandpaper or Velcro.
 
You will find a demonstration of this method, here. Titled "Facing a feather blank" (fourth one down).

You can put the sandpaper on with a spot of thin CA, rip it off when it stops working and replace. Once in a while, turn the face flat so the paper doesn't build up.
 
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aprayinbear said:
It still seems that as long as I drill my barrels true (with no drift) a sleeve shouldn't be necessary.
Click to expand...

You may be mistaken if you think there is absolutely no 'drift' when you bore the hole for the tube. You can get it real close but there will still be some.
Also, unless you are hammering in the tubes, there is a strong possibility that the tube is not sitting perfectly in the center of the hole after the glue sets.

I don't use my barrel trimmer any more. I turn the blank consistently round between centers, use a pin jaw and drill the hole. Then I use TBC bushings to again turn the blank to a consistent OD. In this way I am assured that the tube is parallel to the OD of the blank. I can then put the blank back in the pin jaws and trim the ends. They are always square that way.
 
aprayinbear said:
I like your method as well...

My only question is, how do you attach the sand paper to the block?

Thanks for the suggestions.
Click to expand...


I used to get the peel n stick paper,but the goo residue that is left after you pull the paper off is a hassle to scrape/wipe off.

Now I use the double-sided carpet tape that home depot sells.Just cut off a piece,afix it to the back of your piece of sandpaper & then peel off the paper.It leaves no residue,and you can pull it off,readjust to a new,clean portion of the paper,and restick it a lot of times,never slips.

I attached some pics of it,amd the holders I made for my lathe stand to keep the face plate,transfer punches,and keyless chuck right at my fingertips so there's no looking around for stuff.My feet never have to even move.That made it so much faster and quicker.The sandpaper pieces I keep in the drawer.

Steve
 

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