Attic Stairs??

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jttheclockman

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This summer one of the projects I need to have done is put an attic stair system for my attic. The pull down version. Right now I always have to grab a ladder. Been meaning to do this for many years but now that I am remodeling, need to get done. My question for those in the know, what is a good brand that can support 350 lbs?? Any do's and don'ts and or things to beaware of. Hopefully I can increase the width of opening that I have now. Aluminum VS wood??? They all seem basic but just like everything you get what you pay for. I do not mind paying a little more if it is justified. Basic ceiling height. Thanks.
 
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monophoto

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Wife and I designed the floorplan for our home, and the developer then wrapped a shell around it that matched the other homes in the neighborhood. We worried a lot about the placement of windows, the number and location of electrical outlets (the sales person thought I was going overboard, but we don't need extension cords - anywhere), the view of the fireplace when you walk through the front door, etc.. We thought through every detail - - -

But we overlooked specifying that there should be access to the attic crawlspace. Oops!

Several years later, we changed out the lighting in the kitchen, and the electrician needed to access the crawlspace. So he ended up cutting an opening in the garage ceiling. Naturally, his position was that he was fine with cutting openings, but someone else had to do the patch later. I looked into the possibility of putting pull-down stairs in the opening - the garage ceiling is 10', and Home Despot carries pull-down ladders that can handle that height. But the problem that I ran into was that local building codes require that the garage have a sealed envelope - the concern is that carbon monoxide from cars in the garage could seep through unsealed opening and get into the house. So all we could do was seal the opening with sheet rock.

But to answer the question - my choice would be wood. Aluminum is fine for extension ladders that need to be light enough that they can be schlepped around the house, but if the aluminum is damaged, they are dangerous. Wood is heavier and less subject to damage. And for a permanently-installed pull-down, weight isn't relevant.
 
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Wife and I designed the floorplan for our home, and the developer then wrapped a shell around it that matched the other homes in the neighborhood. We worried a lot about the placement of windows, the number and location of electrical outlets (the sales person thought I was going overboard, but we don't need extension cords - anywhere), the view of the fireplace when you walk through the front door, etc.. We thought through every detail - - -

But we overlooked specifying that there should be access to the attic crawlspace. Oops!

Several years later, we changed out the lighting in the kitchen, and the electrician needed to access the crawlspace. So he ended up cutting an opening in the garage ceiling. Naturally, his position was that he was fine with cutting openings, but someone else had to do the patch later. I looked into the possibility of putting pull-down stairs in the opening - the garage ceiling is 10', and Home Despot carries pull-down ladders that can handle that height. But the problem that I ran into was that local building codes require that the garage have a sealed envelope - the concern is that carbon monoxide from cars in the garage could seep through unsealed opening and get into the house. So all we could do was seal the opening with sheet rock.

But to answer the question - my choice would be wood. Aluminum is fine for extension ladders that need to be light enough that they can be schlepped around the house, but if the aluminum is damaged, they are dangerous. Wood is heavier and less subject to damage. And for a permanently-installed pull-down, weight isn't relevant.


One of my advantages in my cabin/house, no inspections or permits. When I did the electrical work the inspector came out, took a look and said when I wanted to final it just send him pictures. He didn't want to drive out to check it himself. So got my place final'd by sending him pictures in an email. My wife and I just got done designing our home that we'll be moving into probably in June. It's a pain but I think we've got a good handle on it. I'm going to have a ton of electrical outlets inside and out, especially in the shop.

My ladder is aluminum and drops down in two pieces. It's easy to use and I haven't had any problems other than the pull down cord breaks on occasion. As long as you get the feet planted firmly on the ground it's not a problem at all. Our crawl space, in our new home, opening will be in the garage ceiling but I'm not allowed to climb up in the ceiling after falling through last year. Our cabin ceilings are 10' so it was a long drop down to the floor. I did catch myself but then hung there by my elbows until my wife got the ladder over too me. I had to replace almost two sheets of sheet rock after my slip.
 

RangeRat

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Arkansas
i recently installed a pull down ladder in my attic. My first piece of advice is to secure a platform area to stand and work on while in the ceiling. I thought I would skip the time and hassle it would take to do that and nearly paid the price for that mistake. I was in the attic and my wife was helping me to lift the ladder when my foot slipped off the stud I was standing on. Needless to say, my foot went easily through the drywall ceiling and I dropped my end of the ladder. Luckily my wife was able to deflect it enough to keep it from hitting her head and I ended up straddling the stud without falling to the floor. Minor scrapes and bruises for both of us, but by the grace of God no major injuries.

As for type, I'm not sure wood will support the weight requirement you seek. I think you may have to go with an aluminum Type 1AA ladder that will support up to 375lbs.
 

jttheclockman

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I will be having someone do kitchen and bath so will try to get them to do stairs also because carpenter will be there. I can not lift over my head any more so need someone to do it.
 

leehljp

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John,
I weight 225 and most wood ladders don't take a lot of ups and downs with weights of 200lbs for long periods of time. I replaced two in mom's house in 30 years and then put in an aluminum one at twice the price of a good wood one. The aluminum one is so much better and sturdy.

When it comes to ladders, I am not fond of light weight ladders at all except for a good fiberglass ones. In cases of wood or aluminum, they should be heavy enough to not be called lightweight. No good comes from lightweight aluminum or wood ladders. But in the house pull down, I will take the stronger aluminum.
 

jttheclockman

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I weigh 240 and with weight being carried up the ladder I figure a higher rated one is needed. Probably won't be going up there often. But I know the air conditioner guy goes up there every year to check unit. This is a project that just needs to get done as I go through house cleaning up all projects.
 

1080Wayne

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Always wise to make a walkway in any part of an attic with enough height to stand upright . Just have to lay a couple 1x4`s across the joists , don`t have to be nailed down . The other essential is light . Wire it for an under the peak light about every 15 feet , tied into circuit of one room below . My standards from 40 years ago .
 

jttheclockman

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Always wise to make a walkway in any part of an attic with enough height to stand upright . Just have to lay a couple 1x4`s across the joists , don`t have to be nailed down . The other essential is light . Wire it for an under the peak light about every 15 feet , tied into circuit of one room below . My standards from 40 years ago .
Oh there is light and power up there. But it is not a standup attic. It is a crawl space. Right now I am using a spare bedroom to store things that can easily be up there because they rarely get used so I need to free that room up. Again on my list of things that need to get done this summer.
 

smik

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Ohio
My 2 cents, I have a garage attic ladder built back in 63. Used it at 274 lbs and current 240 weight. Lightly used. Wasn't a comfortable feeling climbing the ladder and the ladder wasn't enjoying it either. I agree with RangeRat go with a ladder rated at 375lbs.
 

BRobbins629

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Oh there is light and power up there. But it is not a standup attic. It is a crawl space. Right now I am using a spare bedroom to store things that can easily be up there because they rarely get used so I need to free that room up. Again on my list of things that need to get done this summer.
We have easy access to our attic with ordinary stairs and for years stored assorted things up there. Remember putting things there but never remember using anything stored. Also got musty. When we had the roof shingles replaced and had a big dumpster in front I tooI the opportunity to throw most everything out. A few years later I got rid of the rest. If if really need something I scrapped I can find a work around or buy new. Will not store anything more in there.
 

jttheclockman

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We have easy access to our attic with ordinary stairs and for years stored assorted things up there. Remember putting things there but never remember using anything stored. Also got musty. When we had the roof shingles replaced and had a big dumpster in front I tooI the opportunity to throw most everything out. A few years later I got rid of the rest. If if really need something I scrapped I can find a work around or buy new. Will not store anything more in there.
I did that with my garage this past year. I had my outside of my house redone with new roof, siding and stone front. They had a couple dumpsters there and I took that opportunity to clean the garage and finally added a workbench with peg board and shelves to clean the look up. This summer I am going to try to sell a few things that I do not need but did not want to throw away. FB has a garage sale forum for various towns that I will post on. The stuff that I will put up in attic is usable and at least it gets out of site and like I said frees up bedroom.
 

Charlie_W

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John, Consider placement of the pull down stairs. The easiest and least expensive install is to go in between the trusses. These are usually 22" wide. The other normal size is 25" and requires cutting out the bottom of the truss, blocking it in before mounting the unit. When doing this, I feel it is better to mount it across the truss instead of inline. It depends on a couple factors. The chords of the trusses and pull down room wherever you decide to put it.
I too would go with a heavier rated unit and aluminum would be lighter.
On something like this, spend the extra bucks, do it once and be happy in your choice.
Years ago I did one for our garage. Found a deal at Home Depot on a wooden one which had a couple broken wood pieces. I got it for $25 and repaired it. Has worked fine for many years but do wish I had gotten the wider unit. Big bulky items like Christmas tree boxes don't all fit up the ladder.
Go sturdy, be safe!.....and definitely nail/screw down any flooring you put in the attic.
 

jttheclockman

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John, Consider placement of the pull down stairs. The easiest and least expensive install is to go in between the trusses. These are usually 22" wide. The other normal size is 25" and requires cutting out the bottom of the truss, blocking it in before mounting the unit. When doing this, I feel it is better to mount it across the truss instead of inline. It depends on a couple factors. The chords of the trusses and pull down room wherever you decide to put it.
I too would go with a heavier rated unit and aluminum would be lighter.
On something like this, spend the extra bucks, do it once and be happy in your choice.
Years ago I did one for our garage. Found a deal at Home Depot on a wooden one which had a couple broken wood pieces. I got it for $25 and repaired it. Has worked fine for many years but do wish I had gotten the wider unit. Big bulky items like Christmas tree boxes don't all fit up the ladder.
Go sturdy, be safe!.....and definitely nail/screw down any flooring you put in the attic.
Yes this is what I am after. Something that will be sturdy. Now there is an opening there already but not sure if it needs to be reworked because the size of the stairs but will see. I thought about the garage thing but here we need them to be completly sealed so fumes do not travel up to attic.
 

skiprat

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Hi John,
This is mine that I fitted about 20 years ago but this type is still readily available.
It doesn't have a brand, just came from our equivalent to your Home Depot.
I weigh 240 as well. My eldest son is around 280 plus and it has always been rock solid. It comes complete in it's own frame that you slip up between rafters.
All spring loaded so balanced for lifting/lowering.
Here is a link to the same thing but a slightly newer model. https://www.diy.com/departments/mac...-folding-loft-ladder-kit/3663602522508_BQ.prd
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jttheclockman

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Here is a dumb question for you Skip and I probably know the answer because I will probably do this. But how do you pull the stairs down?? Do you have a pole with a hook somewhere?? That is what I am thinking. I have a linen closet right in the same hallway that I will probably store the stick. That actually looks like sturdy stairs compare to some I have seen.
 

skiprat

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John, I can just reach the catch and I'm 5.10. It came with a pole I think but we must have binned it. The beauty is that as it is spring balanced, it easy to gently pull down.

Missus just told me that we still have the pole. Maybe if you have extremely high ceilings, you could have a string and something you have turned, tied on and just within reach.
 

SteveG

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From my own experience with such a pull-down ladder in my 50 year old house. One feature I greatly dislike is that there is not a good grip point as I get to the upper part of the ladder, due to the cover board that closes/conceals the opening when not in use. The board is tight against the ladder, no place to wrap hands around the ladder, so I cannot grip it at that point. Be sure to examine for that detail.
 

jttheclockman

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From my own experience with such a pull-down ladder in my 50 year old house. One feature I greatly dislike is that there is not a good grip point as I get to the upper part of the ladder, due to the cover board that closes/conceals the opening when not in use. The board is tight against the ladder, no place to wrap hands around the ladder, so I cannot grip it at that point. Be sure to examine for that detail.
Some have railings up around there just for that purpose. I have seen those.
 
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My house in Houston had a stair like that shown by Skip to the attic ... why houses were built with the water heaters, furnaces and a/c units in the attic is beyond me, but ours did..... not fun when the water heater bursts and overflows....

My ladder had a small rope with a bobble weight on the end that I could pull down.... never knew what the weight limit was, but the ladder seemed sturdy when I climbed it.... I only weigh about 180, so may not have taxed the limit much.
 

SteveG

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Yes, my stairs have the little railings...forgot to mention. But it is not the same as grabbing a substantial part of the ladder itself. No like!. Also, with the cover board, I cannot slide my foot fully on the tread: toe runs into the board. Have to turn foot sideways to stand on the tread. This is probably an antiquated design, but wanted you to be aware of the issues as you select a good stair device. I might see if I can modify mine to be somewhat like the photo Skip posted. Thanks Skiprat.
 
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