Asked for a pen

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Kelly -- nicely made pen! The choice of materials and pen plating go well together. I really like the grooves you put in the metal bands - that detail sets it off nicely. I'm still struggling with adding thicker metal bands like this on my pens, so I can appreciate the effort in glue ups and drilling to get to this point so quickly in your new turning career. And for your first pen, you took your time and kept a great level of detail on your fit and finish. Your glue joints look tight, and your assembly looks flawless. I think you have the glue ups, turning, polishing, and assembly down pat, so at least you can put your focus into new designs. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with! And congrats on your first pen sale! Keep up that relationship you have with your dentist, and maybe he'll buy one for each of his staff and collegues!!

I hadn't thought of using the golden ratio with laminations on a pen like this - I think it's an idea worth exploring some more. I've always used it with larger turnings for form height to diameter ratio, max diameter to min diameter ratio, height of max diameter relative to total height ratio, box body to lid ratio, etc. From your original photos showing the pen as un-capped, the cap looks great alone, and the body looks great alone. I can see how you used the golden ratio in each, although not exact as you mentioned. With the pen capped, the two pieces don't seem to be as balanced. I'm debating in my mind on how to apply the golden ratio on a capped pen like this, since your canvas is long and narrow, and the ratio between the length of the pen body and pen cap don't fit the golden ratio. In other words, should you use phi to design the cap and body separately, or do you apply it with the pen capped? I think with the talents you've shown already on this pen, it's worth exploring this ratio with other design layouts, and even eliminating some of the restricting components of the kit to make that ratio fit even better.

Good luck, and looking forward to seeing more.
 
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Kelly

If you are looking for a suggestion on drilling the blanks, may I suggest using denatured alcohol. It will not rust and will cool the bit just fine. There will be others that argue that it does not but do not listen to them it does work. Try it.

One other tip. If you are interested. Instead of building the entire pen blank and drilling, do a stacked assembly. By that I mean cut your pieces and drill them before assembly and then stack them onto the tube of choice for the kit. In your situation there was no design or pattern within the blank pieces so care of drilling dead center was not a concern. You get that when there is a design that is need to be kept so drilling dead center is a must. Now you do need to keep the blank 90 degrees to the bit or else the pieces will be lopsided.
 
Thank you for all the great comments!



Kelly

If you are looking for a suggestion on drilling the blanks, may I suggest using denatured alcohol. It will not rust and will cool the bit just fine. There will be others that argue that it does not but do not listen to them it does work. Try it.

One other tip. If you are interested. Instead of building the entire pen blank and drilling, do a stacked assembly. By that I mean cut your pieces and drill them before assembly and then stack them onto the tube of choice for the kit. In your situation there was no design or pattern within the blank pieces so care of drilling dead center was not a concern. You get that when there is a design that is need to be kept so drilling dead center is a must. Now you do need to keep the blank 90 degrees to the bit or else the pieces will be lopsided.


So how does the denatured alcohol affect the epoxy and the plastic materials? Will it degrade either of them and cause issues later on?
 
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Thank you for all the great comments!



Kelly

If you are looking for a suggestion on drilling the blanks, may I suggest using denatured alcohol. It will not rust and will cool the bit just fine. There will be others that argue that it does not but do not listen to them it does work. Try it.

One other tip. If you are interested. Instead of building the entire pen blank and drilling, do a stacked assembly. By that I mean cut your pieces and drill them before assembly and then stack them onto the tube of choice for the kit. In your situation there was no design or pattern within the blank pieces so care of drilling dead center was not a concern. You get that when there is a design that is need to be kept so drilling dead center is a must. Now you do need to keep the blank 90 degrees to the bit or else the pieces will be lopsided.


So how does the denatured alcohol affect the epoxy and the plastic materials? Will it degrade either of them and cause issues later on?



No effect whatsoever. Alcohol dry very fast. If you use wood and you use water to cool the bits you are really asking for problems. I have used alcohol all the time. I do not pour alcohol in the hole I retract the bit and cool it with a rag soaked in alcohol but then again I drill my blanks on my lathe and not on a drill press.

If you are still concerned then try doing the pen using my second tip.

Here is an example of what I mean by stack segmenting


IMGP0846.jpg




IMGP0881.jpg
 
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Kelly, just about everyone's first pen is a slimline, or a low end pen. Nothing as extravagant as what you accomplished. Most of us have our first pen still and look at it and sort of chuckle to see where we started. I don't think anyone is questioning your skill in that pen, we are in awwe.

The comments where people do not like it, it is like asking someone if they like beer, some do and some don't, they prefer soda. That's all.
 
Kelly, just about everyone's first pen is a slimline, or a low end pen. Nothing as extravagant as what you accomplished. Most of us have our first pen still and look at it and sort of chuckle to see where we started. I don't think anyone is questioning your skill in that pen, we are in awwe.

The comments where people do not like it, it is like asking someone if they like beer, some do and some don't, they prefer soda. That's all.
you ain't kidding.

mine was UGLY
 
My take on this "price thing" fwiw? Most things have an intrinsic value, be it to you, or, to someone else.
If your dentist thinks your pen is worth $$$$ to him then so be it. If he also thinks it's worth $ then that's the value he puts on it & is prepared to pay. It really doesn't matter what I (or anyone else) thinks, the item's worth is exactly what the purchaser (& that's the guy who's willing to get out his wallet & start counting out bills) is prepared to pay for it.
As for the length of time you've been making pens I really don't see that as relevant... your first pen may well be far better than someone elses 100th pen. Some people have it & some don't.
Some may love your pen others may absolutely detest it... it's irrelevant, if one guy loves it enough to pay $$$$$ than that's what it's worth (to him). What's that old saying? "the customer is always right!"
Good luck! hope it all works out for you.
 
Kelly, just about everyone's first pen is a slimline, or a low end pen. Nothing as extravagant as what you accomplished. Most of us have our first pen still and look at it and sort of chuckle to see where we started. I don't think anyone is questioning your skill in that pen, we are in awwe.

The comments where people do not like it, it is like asking someone if they like beer, some do and some don't, they prefer soda. That's all.

Heck with both, give me bourbon! :biggrin:
 
As this is your first customer and he could have friends :) or maybe even buy more I'd stick with a fair price. I wasn't sure what your costs would be be so looked up a majestic jr. and guessed at other costs. My first guess was $145 but I'm relatively new to this too, so I agree with the guys/gals that suggested 3x costs or the experience fellow that said he charges $150 - $200. What ever you charge, congratulations on your exciting first sale !!
 
Kelly
First off beautifull pen. If you are just starting out I agree with John. Make sure the pen will truely stand up to the test of time. I am one for pricing pens correctly if you are selling them on a regular basis as a business. But if you are doing them for a true hobby I would do what John told you. The best thing to do is to go slow and enjoy what you a doing. The best feeling is someone is willing to pay you for what you truely enjoy doing.

Alan
 
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