qquake
Member
I would like to stain a light colored wood blank bright red. But the only red commercial stains I see are dark, almost a brick red. Are there any alternatives to commercial wood stain?
Alternative stains?
- Thread starter qquake
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dogcatcher
Member
Look at the Fiebings leather dyes, the alcohol based dye, not the oil based dye is my first choice.
jttheclockman
Member
Are you looking for a surface stain or a deep penetrating stain?? If using alcohol based dyes they are not forgiving in that what you stain stays stained and no blending is possible with my experience. Waterbase dyes are muddy looking and color pops more when top coated. I have had success with Transtint dyes which you can mix with various mediums such as alcohol or water or can be mixed with a finish such as shellac or polys or brush on lacquers. They are the truest colored dyes I have used. Depth of color depends alot on type of wood. I use it as an after finish. These are good if seeing wood grain is what you are after.
If wood grain is not a concern then consider paints. The color spectrum is greater and more controllable. Paints can also be used as dyes in that they can be sanded back to allow grain to show.
All these things take some skill and knowledge. Practice on pieces of scraps of the same material you want to stain and sanded to the same grit. This gives a true reading of what you are looking for. Good luck.
If wood grain is not a concern then consider paints. The color spectrum is greater and more controllable. Paints can also be used as dyes in that they can be sanded back to allow grain to show.
All these things take some skill and knowledge. Practice on pieces of scraps of the same material you want to stain and sanded to the same grit. This gives a true reading of what you are looking for. Good luck.
qquake
Member
I guess I should have given more information. My sister is a freak about red. I have made her red acrylic pens before, but wanted to make her a red wood pen. I have turned red heart before, but it's not red enough. The effect I'm looking for is wood grain but bright red. What about liquid Rit dye? Maybe I'll turn and sand a couple of test pieces between centers and experiment with them.
Regular artist oil paint can also be diluted with DNA and you can virtually make any color stain you desire. It works very well.
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In the attached the purple and blue pens on the right side were dyed with oil paint diluted with DNA, they both sold rather quickly.
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Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Curly
Member
This work for you? The Crimson. You'll have to change the currency to get US the price.
www.leevalley.com
- Lee Valley Tools
www.leevalley.com
jttheclockman
Member
I have used powdered rit dyes with DNA as the carrier. But again these type dyes as with all dyes will not penetrate deep. You are best to turn the desired shape first and then dye using any type dye. The alcohol and oil based dyes work best as opposed to waterbased. Plus they will not raise the grain much. Just my opinion and again Trans Tint dyes are very intense wood dyes. I have used them to color epoxy too.
Good points. I should have said that I turned to size and then applied the stain, let it dry a week and then did ca over the top.
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monophoto
Member
I used red rubber stamp ink to dye a tool handle. I had an old bottle of the bulk ink (equipped with a roller ball designed for refreshing stamp pads); I popped off the roller cap, and applied the ink using a bit of folded paper towel (while wearing rubber gloves of course). After letting it dry for a day, I used WOP a a protective top coat.
wolf creek knives
Member
I've used this method on a knife for a lady who wanted a pink handle. Turned out well but, as noted below, it's the final step before your final finish.
qquake
Member
I was planning on turning and sanding it before I apply the stain or dye. I have DNA, I might experiment with powdered Rit.
dogcatcher
Member
Here are some I did with bird toy dye. https://www.mightybirdtoys.com/home.php?cat=281
Attachments
jttheclockman
Member
Experimenting is good. I will warn you that all woods take stain differently. Burls will not stain evenly. Also the higher grit sandpaper you use will close the grain and no allow as much stain to penetrate. Also end grain will absorb more stain than flat grain
Woodchipper
Member
I experimented and used a black Sharpie on a maple blank. It was streaked so I thought I would clean it with DNA. Came out a nice grey color! A few coats of CA and it looked nice.
dogcatcher
Member
Try a dark stain like black right after you finish turning, even before sanding. Let the stain dry, then sand,, the softer grain will absorb more stain and go deeper into the wood. Then after sanding, use the stain color you want. The darker areas where the stain went deeper will be accented with your second application of the chosen color.
Have a lot of time to waste? Find one of the pipe making forums and read through the old threads about stain and finishing techniques. They work with briar, sort of like burls, where the wood has all kinds of hardness and softness factors. When you think you know enough to be dangerous, find one of the black powder muzzleloader forums and study their dye and finish techniques. Most of that will be chemical "stuff" that can be done to maple to change it's color and accent the grain. But quite a few use the easy route of Fiebings leather dyes., both alcohol and oil based versions.
Have you ever seen a star burst on a guitar? That is also a stain technique. Hard to accomplish on a pen, but it has possibilities. Think of member Bob in SF and some of his high end art. You can take plain maple blanks, that cost about 20 cents and make them into million dollar pieces of art. That hand full of calls I posted above, at Christmas time they would sell like I was giving them away. Not because they were better, but because they were unique.
Have a lot of time to waste? Find one of the pipe making forums and read through the old threads about stain and finishing techniques. They work with briar, sort of like burls, where the wood has all kinds of hardness and softness factors. When you think you know enough to be dangerous, find one of the black powder muzzleloader forums and study their dye and finish techniques. Most of that will be chemical "stuff" that can be done to maple to change it's color and accent the grain. But quite a few use the easy route of Fiebings leather dyes., both alcohol and oil based versions.
Have you ever seen a star burst on a guitar? That is also a stain technique. Hard to accomplish on a pen, but it has possibilities. Think of member Bob in SF and some of his high end art. You can take plain maple blanks, that cost about 20 cents and make them into million dollar pieces of art. That hand full of calls I posted above, at Christmas time they would sell like I was giving them away. Not because they were better, but because they were unique.