knight_muzzleloader
Member
I think it is hand made "comealong" wrench to turn something with a "T" handle.
All to give away...!
- Thread starter robutacion
- Start date
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Tim'sTurnings
Member
I think you are looking at the picture from the first question? Look through the posts if you want. I think we are on question 3 or 4.
Tim.
robutacion
Member
Yes, Tim is correct, that was the first question and now, we are at Question - 5, not even half way through to empty that box of nice blanks...!:wink::biggrin:
Lets see if I can give another clue and not spoil the fun...!
I make lots of pen blanks for my eBay store, right...??? so I need something that can be used all the time, many of them are Resifills and stabilised blanks, the stabilised ones need to be finished after sanding to show all they colours and that is the second purpose or the one that become a result of making that frame.
The primary reason, has to do with resolving the pour/lack of adhesion that some woods have, with the PR resin, is the consequence of this process main "material" use, and the fact that the blanks have already been sanded, that made me created this frame...!
Any more than this, and I will be spelling it out...!
:wink:Cheers
George
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teamtexas
Member
Ok then primiary use of the rack is to apply thin CA to a batch of blanks to help the wood burl pieces stick to the PR.
Secondary use is to apply a clear coat finish to a batch of blanks to enable their colors to be seen.
Dan
Secondary use is to apply a clear coat finish to a batch of blanks to enable their colors to be seen.
Dan
Vermont Freehand
Member
drying rack? place a coathanger through the blanks and the teeth of the saw space apart the various blanks?
robutacion
Member
BULLSEYE...!:biggrin: congrats Dan.
It was starting to get pretty obvious, huh...???:wink:
Anyway, the main function of these rack/frame is actually to prevent the blanks to get stuck on the bottom, when using any other surface, I was using news paper but, the CA will always run through so, the news paper would get stuck and for every surface done, I would have the opposite surface covered with the damn news paper.
Is this following pic,
I'm using news paper underneath to the cast block, to protect the bandsaw table, these is one of the times where, blanks will fall apart/separate if I try to rip them from the cast so, the top surface in sanded down to finish status covering the whole mold/cast (normally 6 blanks), when this is done I will then soak every joint with the thin CA, while the bandsaw is one, creating just enough vibration to assist the thin CA to penetrate through the join or at least to secure the join strong enough to allow me to cut each blank from the mold/block and then trim to size, ready for the sander. In this case the sandpaper will get stuck but, doesn't matter, the bottom is not yet finished.What this would do was to force me to sand the sandpaper off, doubling my work and time as the blanks already were sanded to clear/level all the blank surfaces. Not all my Resifills require this compulsory step, particularly on the 4 surfaces such as the new Cork Wood Resifills and a couple of others including the notorious difficult wood to cast, due to the natural oils, the Olive wood.
If I can separate/snap using my fingers/hands, the resin and wood/whatever joints, those blanks will have every joint soaked with thin CA (5 cup), the thin CA does penetrate perfectly and created a stronger bond that Alumilite will ever be able to. A lot of extra work and expense, this may explain my use of 10 litres of thin CA (5 cup) alone, in about 1 year
, remember I import if from the USA...!So, the following pic,
is the reason of the rack creation, blanks seat on top of the blade teeth, making little contact but enough to stay "put" to work the CA on and then spread the excess CA evenly on the blank surface, repeating the process on the 4 surfaces and blanks end grain, a quick spray of accelerator over the lot, and they can be turned to the next surface to repeat the process. Any CA running down stays in the timber board under the rack, and any CA that glue the blank to the metal teeth, if will come out with most ease and no damage to the blank. The day I too this pic, and just before I worked on the Cork blanks with the thin CA, there is a raw of blanks behind that were sprayed a couple of hours before...!For years I use the timber boards to put my blanks that need to be sprayed with varnish, I could never turn them over and 2 the other 2 faces (2 faces sprayed at one time), without having to wait hours, particularly in winter days now, I finish the 4 faces in one go, without waiting any time, turning the blanks immediately after sprayed, doesn't affect the blank, nor it gets stuck on the metal teeth, perfect.
I just varnished some blanks today and while I have dozens of identical pics, was no need to look for any, I had the one of today...!:biggrin:
This idea/rack is also very useful to use for spraying bowls, and other larger wood pieces, as you can image so, any broken bandsaw blades you have or will have, try it out and let us know how you go...!
Thanks again for your participation so far, lets continue on with another question shall we..???:wink::biggrin:, this one will not last long, I reckon...!
PS: Dan
I will send you a PM with some info, shortly...!
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<*>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Question - 6
*- What is this item used for, and what is one of its greatest advantages...???
Good luck
Cheers
George
jyreene
Member
First guess is a drying rack of some sort. Biggest advantage is the carrying handle or that you can put a fan next to it and have the air blow through.
Either that or a multi tiered pizza rack.
Either that or a multi tiered pizza rack.
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How about a portable sand paper rack??
I do like gunny's idea of a pizza rack also.
Don
I do like gunny's idea of a pizza rack also.
Don
robutacion
Member
Hahaha, pizza's, huh...???? sorry, wrong...!
Remember folks, something to do with pen turning/making..!:wink:
Cheers
George
Remember folks, something to do with pen turning/making..!:wink:
Cheers
George
jyreene
Member
Really meant the drying. Like blank drying when you lacquer them.
greatest advantage is that it has a handle...
What it's used for is to store and organize while being portable - anything else would be conjecture!
But I'll guess that it's for either sorting sandpaper sheets by grit, or to carry your blanks!
What it's used for is to store and organize while being portable - anything else would be conjecture!
But I'll guess that it's for either sorting sandpaper sheets by grit, or to carry your blanks!
jyreene
Member
Another guess. It's to sort your blanks/pens by stage of completion. Top is just started. Then drilled. Then turned. Then finished. Biggest advantage is either still the handle it that you can reach through it.
bruce119
Member
It's a rack for your molds to go in a pressure pot.
A couple advantages.
First you can get it in the pot fast.
You can do all your prep on the table then put them into the rack and only have to bend over once to get into the pot.
It also has a handle that is critical as there would be no room and to heavy to manage.
edit...added info.
the solid floor of the racks also protect from any leakage or overflow from getting into the mold below.
also by stacking them with the top open does not obstruct the air as stacking molds directly on top of each other could/would cause problems.
.
A couple advantages.
First you can get it in the pot fast.
You can do all your prep on the table then put them into the rack and only have to bend over once to get into the pot.
It also has a handle that is critical as there would be no room and to heavy to manage.
edit...added info.
the solid floor of the racks also protect from any leakage or overflow from getting into the mold below.
also by stacking them with the top open does not obstruct the air as stacking molds directly on top of each other could/would cause problems.
.
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DaveTTC
Member
Still following this post with interest
ssajn
Local Chapter Leader
I second what Bruce said. For holding molds in your pressure pot.
PaulDoug
Member
Used for stacking casting blanks in a pressure pot. Advantage you can pressurize many ore blanks at once and easy to get it in and out of the pot.
robutacion
Member
Still following this post with interest
Thanks mate, I would expect nothing else from you...!:biggrin:
Cheers
George
robutacion
Member
Hi Bruce,
You are in fact very close to be correct, the only part missing is the "true" advantage on having something like this built for your pressure pot, yes capacity, handling ease and air circulation are all benefits but one that makes this "tray" very importing, when you run your pot at "full capacity" all the time. I would say 95% of people using these type pressure pots, have an identical pot, inside and out, modifications are normally preformed on the pots external components, any major internal modifications on the interior would/could jeopardize its workable internal volume/capacity...!capish...???:wink::biggrin:
Cheers
George
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jyreene
Member
Then so what Bruce said but the major advantage is it saves you some fluid because of wood.
ssajn
Local Chapter Leader
It would make clean up easier if there should be a spill.
robutacion
Member
Hahahahah, not really...!
You may have not understood the "clue" because you may not understand the "physics" of a pressure pot and to what can happen inside if...!!!
I'm not trying to be difficult, not at all but, this part of the tray use, is as important if not more important than all the other advantages when running the post at full capacity, which means that...!
Cheers
George
jyreene
Member
How'd you know? The closest I've been to any stabilizing us a picture on this site.
Does it have to do with the draw of the vacuum and keeping the fluid from rapidly exiting the pot? It seems that a pot large enough for that filled with fluid and having vacuum applied would need some sort of barrier to redirect the flow
And keep it in the pot.
Does it have to do with the draw of the vacuum and keeping the fluid from rapidly exiting the pot? It seems that a pot large enough for that filled with fluid and having vacuum applied would need some sort of barrier to redirect the flow
And keep it in the pot.
robutacion
Member
Confuse again mate...???
I'm talking about pressure pot for casting using pressure and not the stabilisation system using "liquids" that stay liquid and vacuum...!
You get 10 points from me for perseverance...!:wink::biggrin:
George
bruce119
Member
Well I was going to say maybe a failsafe for an implosion, that would be under vacuum but under pressure nana...
jyreene
Member
Dang. Well it's easy to take apart because of the screws so you can use it again and not have to hammer out the blocks.
It's either that or you really are making pizza in a pressure cooker!
But yes I was totally confused.
It's either that or you really are making pizza in a pressure cooker!
But yes I was totally confused.
robutacion
Member
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
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David Keller
Member
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
You make more blanks than when casting at less than capacity?:biggrin::tongue:
robutacion
Member
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
You make more blanks than when casting at less than capacity?:biggrin::tongue:
Very true but, if the pot is filled with open mold's (not in the rack) right to the top, and the pot has not have had any modifications inside, what will happen when you connect the air hose to it...!
Any more, and I will better, spelling it out...!
George
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TLTHW
Member
The air will rush in under pressure directly onto your top layer of blanks . Possibly causing the forms to move and splash. I would say it's true advantage is the top plate prevents this from happening.
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
You make more blanks than when casting at less than capacity?:biggrin::tongue:
Very true but, if the pot is filled with open mold's (not in the rack) right to the top, and the pot has not have had any modifications inside, what will happen when you connect the air hose to it...!
Any more, and I will better, spelling it out...!
George
DaveTTC
Member
Come on guys, someone needs to get this. This is a great learning curve for me too.
Rumnut
Member
The incoming air is deflected by the top board of the pressure pot rack thus preventing overflowing/splashing from the moulds.
bruce119
Member
The air will rush in under pressure directly onto your top layer of blanks . Possibly causing the forms to move and splash. I would say it's true advantage is the top plate prevents this from happening.
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
You make more blanks than when casting at less than capacity?:biggrin::tongue:
Very true but, if the pot is filled with open mold's (not in the rack) right to the top, and the pot has not have had any modifications inside, what will happen when you connect the air hose to it...!
Any more, and I will better, spelling it out...!
George
Yes I see it would prevent the air from blowing the resin in the top mold all over the place. I just took this as a given
You learn rite away that is an issue most write ups on how to modify a pot. I found my fix many years ago by an oops. I also add the air S-L-O-W-L-Y I also added this mod. a brass "T" screwed in to the inlet and ground a little so you could max the pot out and it wouldn't hit anything. Your cabinet is much nicer easier to work with. Well worth building if you do any production type work.
Below is my fix just didn't consider that.
.
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Barney2804
Member
Hi don't know if I'm on the right track but as you apply pressure to the top layer and they press down on the bottom layers then the molds will press together an not allow the air to be released from the molds. The rack separates the molds and allows pressure all around.
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jyreene
Member
Well now I know what a lid looks like. Seriously. First time I've seen a pressure pot lid.
Now back to the game.
Now back to the game.
jyreene
Member
Man I'm stumped. I was already making wild guesses! But let's see. Full capacity pressure pot. That would be a decent amount of pressure you're putting in there. You've taken up some space with the wood structure. I don't see how it would ensure even pressure per layers but that could be it. Maybe it has to do with when you're all done and releasing the pressure.
This is fun. I'm glad you're nudging us along. The hints are great ( now if only I had a clue what they meant!)
This is fun. I'm glad you're nudging us along. The hints are great ( now if only I had a clue what they meant!)
DaveTTC
Member
I know nothing about this field of expertise but I don't think one blank or a pot full of blanks would change the pressure. Just an observation not a guess.
jyreene
Member
Agreed. But I'm no expert, or novice, in pressure pots. All keep thinking is he had one go boom on him and this helps prevent hat but I don't know how or why that would work.
robutacion
Member
The air will rush in under pressure directly onto your top layer of blanks . Possibly causing the forms to move and splash. I would say it's true advantage is the top plate prevents this from happening.
So Bruce, jyreene and others, what happens when you use the casting pressure pot, to capacity/full..???
George
You make more blanks than when casting at less than capacity?:biggrin::tongue:
Very true but, if the pot is filled with open mold's (not in the rack) right to the top, and the pot has not have had any modifications inside, what will happen when you connect the air hose to it...!
Any more, and I will better, spelling it out...!
George
Yes, that is one of the great advantages of this type tray, you are the winner TLTHW, congrats...!:wink::biggrin:
My pot never had the "T" piece installed because I made the tray for my first casts, the idea wasn't mine, I remember to have seen something of that nature when I was searching for info about casting.
I should have guessed, I started all my casting process, after I found a PDF file called "Worthless Wood Blanks - 2007" from Curtis, our Cactus Juice man, I just found that file and had a look, credit is due here, was there where I saw the rack, and the reasons to its use, and here it is (I hope you don't mind Curtis...!)
These next pics are from years ago when I got myself set-up for start casting, I now use mold's that cover the whole size of each tray of that rack...!
Bruce,
On my post 178, I have indicated that most people don't do any internal modifications so the air intake is straight down like a rocket, not so crucial if you only have a single low mold at the pots bottom, running it to capacity, the top mold is about 1"1/2 from the air intake, I don't thing that the vast majority will have any control on the amount of air that goes is, most is a direct line from the compressor, with a quick disconnector at the pot end so, the air pressure would spray resin everywhere inside that pot.
Anyway, the point I was trying to make is, this is what I use and works perfectly...!
OK so question - 6 is over, thank you again to all participants, we all can have some fun and learn at the same time, huh...???
So lets go to the next question...!:biggrin:
PS: TLTHW, I will send you a PM with some information, shortly...!
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<*>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
* Question - 7
*- In these next 2 pictures, you see 2 items,
what's their purpose...???Good luck,
Cheers
George
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jyreene
Member
It's for
Segmenting. The plastic is the veneers or materials and the black cutter is for cutting straight lines (most I've seen are for paper).
Segmenting. The plastic is the veneers or materials and the black cutter is for cutting straight lines (most I've seen are for paper).
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bruce119
Member
Well I will take a quick stab
#1- different density foams
#2- a cutter to cut the foam and/or sand paper into manageable sizes.
The different density foams give you a soft to firm feel when sanding.
.
#1- different density foams
#2- a cutter to cut the foam and/or sand paper into manageable sizes.
The different density foams give you a soft to firm feel when sanding.
.