1st time label casting & scratches

[TN_Eric]

Been practicing with Alumilite Water Clear and label casting. I've done a TON of research, watched videos of both Fred Wissen from PtownSubbie
and Exotic Blanks. I used the self adhesive matt finish ink jet printer paper recommended, pressure pot with humidity below 50% and 74 degrees.

My primary issue, and I've never seen them on colored blanks before, are the scratches that are showing up and what looks like separation or water
damage on each of the ends of the turned blank.

Process: Turn round to shape. Sanding with 400, then 600 grit. Then 0000 steel wool. Then WET sanding with micro mesh pads. Then Gluboost "orange" thin, then "blue". Then another very light wet sand with the micro mesh pads.

NOTE: the gray patches on the dog images are not a flaw.

What is going on and what needs to change??

 

[mbroberg]

Here is what works for me. Use Aluminite Clear Slow, not Aluminate Water Clear for your casting. Water Clear is a softer material more prone to scratching.

Do not wet sand. Water can wick into the ends of the blank, into the label and cause the discoloration you are seeing. If you must wet sand seal the ends of the blank with CA before doing so, but I never wet sand at all and have no problems.

Sand progressively, 320, 400, 600. Sand with the lathe running then stop the length and sand lengthwise. Remove any sanding dust from the blank before advancing to the next grit. Make sure all the scratches from the previous grit are gone before advancing to the next grit. Then, dry-sand through the mico-mesh grits using the same procedure that you used while sanding. Steel wool in not necessary. Nor is Glu-Boost. Some people swear by it but in my opinion, Alumilite Clear Slow can shine up just fine without it.

 

[TN_Eric]

Thanks for the input. I have Clear Slow and will give that a shot tomorrow. I have a "practice" blank I made with Clear Slow, but it came out a tad cloudy and I know what my mistake with that was.

I have seen Yorkshire Grit used on Clear Slow, have you ever used it? I normally just use the popular car polish, I think it's by Meguiar's.

 

[mbroberg]

All I do is buff them. 1st with Tripoli and then with White Diamond.

 

[JohnU]

If your Clear Slow is cloudy, add a little extra B in the mix and make sure you mix thoroughly. Mixing a little resin is harder than mixing a lot because there is less room for error and often times the resin from the bottoms of the cup is not not mixed enough. I like to mix a little extra so there's a bit left in the cup.

Also, Gluboost is an option. Some don't bother and get a great shine, where I use it as a scratch sealer and finish. I can get a quicker finish with it than the extra time in polishing the resin. Also, it's harder than the resin is so it holds a shine longer and doesn't dull as easily with use. It's not a right or wrong thing, it's just as option.

Also, looking at your images above, to me it looks as off there are radial lines around the blank that might have been from applying the Gluboost. Sometimes I have to drop down to 400 grit and lightly sand the Gluboost before mixing to steel wool or micromesh, and as Mike stated above, if your going to wet sand, make sure to seal the ends of the blank. I do that after I sand it down to the tubes and before turning. It's easier because you do t have to worry about getting glue on the blank surface.
Best of luck!