Sharpie refill thread

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Any chance of you sharing what clip you used and how you went about it. Looks like you sandwiched it in I got a foggy idea about doing it.

Very nice looking pen good job thanks for sharing.

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Don't get me wrong, I'm not ticked or anything.... I just hope I sell enough sharpie pens to make it worthwhile. But it looks like my first truly kitless pen/ marker will be soon! :D
 
I just bought a refill and I think I see one POSSIBLE problem. The barrel on my refill is all over the place but generally in the .420-.424 range. The closest bit is a 27/64 which is .4219. That should work, as twist drills always drill a tad large. The potential problem I see is how much meat is left for threads.
The tap is .450, minus approx. .422-.423 for the drilled hole leaves approx. .027, divided by two, leaves .0135 on the sides for threads. While this MIGHT be OK in metal or hard plastic, it may not be enough for wood.
What do you think??:confused:
 
rherrell said:
I just bought a refill and I think I see one POSSIBLE problem. The barrel on my refill is all over the place but generally in the .420-.424 range. The closest bit is a 27/64 which is .4219. That should work, as twist drills always drill a tad large. The potential problem I see is how much meat is left for threads.
The tap is .450, minus approx. .422-.423 for the drilled hole leaves approx. .027, divided by two, leaves .0135 on the sides for threads. While this MIGHT be OK in metal or hard plastic, it may not be enough for wood.
What do you think??:confused:
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I thought about that too with some woods. Mite have to make a center band type insert thingy. Then it would be able to stand up to time.

And I would want a tap with the perfect fit if I am going to sell them. I am glad John is taking the time to check the size of the tap before going on with manufacturing. A smart move on both ends. It will be a wile before I get time to make these. For me it's too late for this season but I will have a full line of them next year.:biggrin:

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Thing's will start to happen once the taps come. Not from me though I am booked every weekend with shows now till Christmas. By then there should be a lot of info. to help come up with a process to make these reliable.

Whenever I make something new (kit-less) I like to keep it myself and use the heck out of it for at least a month. And even give 1 or 2 away to someone that will use it heavily and put it through it paces. I want to be sure all the bugs are worked out before it goes on the table.

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I'm thinking an threaded aluminum band a little longer than the threaded section of the refill. Then insert that into the pen body . . .

Steve
 
Chuck Key said:
Or possibly swage a band over the threads?

Chuckie
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Did you mean:
"Date: circa 1812
: a tool used by metalworkers for shaping their work by holding it on the work or the work on it and striking with a hammer or sledge".



You first. Then I'll try it.

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Chuck Key said:
Or possibly swage a band over the threads?

Chuckie
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Yea I had to look that up also. Wasn't familiar with the term. Seems like you use the part like a mold type thing. I would be curious what material would be we be able to use.

It looks like they actually use a center band with threads and it is pressed in like an insert. We mite be able to play around with something like that. Shouldn't too difficult find the rite diameter aluminum tape the inside and turn a shoulder on it so it can be set or pressed in the pen body.

I can't wait to get some time to actually work on this. But that will be after Christmas.

.
 
I played around with an idea of using something like a goose call gutsert. Here is a link with a photo, http://www.webfootcustomcalls.com/index.php?id=119

Instead of PVC or plastic, I tried Delrin and worked on using it to be glued into a blank and then use a blind mandrel to turn it. I used a piece of junk 1.5" long 5/8 Delrin rod, first turned a cut down to insert in the blank. Then drilled it with I think a 27/64, did not waste time threading it. I think the same could be made on a wood lathe using aluminum, Delrin is out it does not glue very good. This would give a wood body with a aluminum center bad with inside threads.

Now someone tell me how to do the cap, I cannot find refills so I have no idea what or how the cap snaps on to the refill. Is it possible to drill out a blank and use the refill cap inside of it for a cap?
 
Jgrden said:
Did you mean:
"Date: circa 1812
: a tool used by metalworkers for shaping their work by holding it on the work or the work on it and striking with a hammer or sledge".



You first. Then I'll try it.

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Chuck Key said:
OK, you hold it and I will operate the sledge.

Chuckie (Shaking like a leaf)
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That's funny kind of like working on the railraod :rotfl:

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I looked at the pen and refill I got today. any ideas on how to get the plastic piece out of the pen, then you could use that. I tried to get mine out and do not see a way to, without making it into garbage
:frown:
 
jamie oren said:
I looked at the pen and refill I got today. any ideas on how to get the plastic piece out of the pen, then you could use that. I tried to get mine out and do not see a way to, without making it into garbage
:frown:
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I haven't worked on one yet but this seems like it's not going to be too difficult to do and all you should need is the refill.

My plan is first the plastic piece (cap) is on the refill just glue it into the cap and there is your snap on cap. Now the pen I think I mite try and make a center band type thing out of aluminum. That would give the pen support for wood. It shouldn't be too hard with a metal lathe. The hardest most difficult part would be a reliable clip. Of coarse you could skip the clip but I think it is important. This should be a fairly easy (once the bug are worked out) and inexpensive pen to make. All you will need is a refill I think there less than $2.00 Oh and the tap of coarse. I am looking forward to working on these. But for me it will be after Christmas.

.
 
bruce119 said:
My plan is first the plastic piece (cap) is on the refill just glue it into the cap and there is your snap on cap.
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I like the glue idea so far. I cut a few notches in the fins on that plastic piece (cap) to allow five minute epoxy to flow competly around it making a very solid connection when the glue sets.

I think I mite try and make a center band type thing out of aluminum. That would give the pen support for wood.
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I am going to try this one. It is sized for a 7/16 drill for the refill anything smaller seems to bind when inserting the refill. The outside diameter of the coupler is set for a 31/64 drill bit and the band is .371 for use with a stainless steel cap or a custom made cap.

COUPLER.JPG




The hardest most difficult part would be a reliable clip.
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Have not made one with a clip yet but do not see that as a major problem. George showed one with a clip but I can no longer find that example.

Chuckie
 
Chuckie great stuff thanks for sharing. I can't even think about working on these till after Christmas. I got a show every weekend now till Christmas and even one Christmas weekend.

I am just going out of my mind.

.
 
I did one experimental with the coupler similar to the one above and used the cap design that rherrel came up with. http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53170&page=5
I did not have the tap so I glued it in. My wife took it to her school and it quickly disappeared. I cannot believe someone would take a pen made out of pine with no finish.
Now I am waiting on the USPS to deliver the tap and warmer weather.
 
I considered doing the cap that way on the most recent pen. It would have added an additional 3/8 of an inch to a pen that was already five and a quarter inches long. Tried to keep it as short as possible.

glued.jpg
 
Chuck Key said:
.....Have not made one with a clip yet but do not see that as a major problem. George showed one with a clip but I can no longer find that example.

Chuckie
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Chuck, Here ya go. When I install a clip this way I thread the top of the cap then screw the finial on. In this case I just threaded the sharpie plastic cap too then simply screwed it into the cap, right under the finial. Nice clean install, works for me!

I used a 1/2"-20 tap to thread the lower body to accept the refills and of course the cap is a "snap" fit.

sharpie3.jpg
 
I realize this is late to the conversation but I missed the bit on swagging. Actually copper is very easy to swagg. you do it by holding the tube in your hand for things like air conditioning lines. keep in mind this is the soft bend with your hands type copper tube. for harder metals like brass you need positive and negative steel molds. to cut this short you can look up swagging bullet jackets for an idea of the tools needed. there are probably presses already in existence for most shapes you would come up with wanting. if not having them made would be the EXPENSIVE part. then again we have a johnnycnc!!!
 
Daniel said:
I realize this is late to the conversation but I missed the bit on swagging. Actually copper is very easy to swagg. you do it by holding the tube in your hand for things like air conditioning lines. keep in mind this is the soft bend with your hands type copper tube. for harder metals like brass you need positive and negative steel molds. to cut this short you can look up swagging bullet jackets for an idea of the tools needed. there are probably presses already in existence for most shapes you would come up with wanting. if not having them made would be the EXPENSIVE part. then again we have a johnnycnc!!!
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Show off !!! Where is the tutorial????:biggrin:
 
So, I played a bit this weekend and made two bodies for my sharpie pens. However, how are people making the caps? I know I can make a relatively square holed cap using a drill bit the size of the largest diamater of the tip, but I'd like to do something that hugs the taper of the tip more. Is there an (easy) way to do this? Or is the square hole just bout the only option? Also, what's the best way to make a clip? That's something I have 0 experience with.

Thanks!
 
BigguyZ said:
So, I played a bit this weekend and made two bodies for my sharpie pens. However, how are people making the caps? I know I can make a relatively square holed cap using a drill bit the size of the largest diamater of the tip, but I'd like to do something that hugs the taper of the tip more. Is there an (easy) way to do this? Or is the square hole just bout the only option? Also, what's the best way to make a clip? That's something I have 0 experience with.

Thanks!
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I use a step method for drilling. 3/8"X1 15/16", 7/16"X1 1/4" and 15/32" X 3/4". The second measurements are depths and are measured to the end of the flute, not to the point.
These things are REALLY length sensitive so do yourself a favor and use a stop collar, especially on the 3/8" bit. Even this method needs to be tweaked so be prepared to do some trimming and fitting of the top AND bottom to get the cap to "snap" together. If you don't get that "snap", the refill will dry out.
 
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Travis, I screwed up. I was quoting the drill sizes off the top of my head and I got one wrong. 29/64" should have been 15/32". I corrected my original post, sorry if I messed you up.:mad:
 
Got 2 done. One I'm not real happy with the, cap the other....well I'll put a pict up later.....worked well. I still got to figure how to do a clip on the cap????
I got to finish a sword I'm working on 15 layer with 15 twist. It gets a cordwrap handle.


Larry
 
On another note- for those who got the tap- what size drill bit do you use? I tried 7/16, and that seems to work, but I was curious is a smaller bit would get better/ tighter results...
 
Nowicki said:
Got 2 done. One I'm not real happy with the, cap the other....well I'll put a pict up later.....worked well. I still got to figure how to do a clip on the cap????


Larry
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So here is what I came up with. Like I said I will be working on some more with different woods to get better fit and finish. This was just quick and easy.

50cal%20sharpie.jpg
 
johnm said:
I have found the 7/16 to give a very tight fit... is yours loose?
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On the first one the fit was tight so I ran the tap in again and it fit nicely so on the second I ran the tap twice before I tried it and it fit great.
On the wood it worked fine the first time.

Larry
 
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johnm said:
How well does the wood thread and hold over time?
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After I tapped it I coated the inside with CA glue. I blew air from my compressor over the threads till it dried which thinned the coating. so far so good. I still got to work on the cap some.

Larry
 
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