I will. It is possible that the BLO is a sort of kinder, gentler fast curative and that is why you don't have to sand afterward. If I find out that's what works, I'll drop the other method like a hot rock.
Yes, BLO acts as a mild accelerent for the CA, it also acts as a lubricant to help you smooth it out.
I tried this technique for the first time, making a pen for my own use, (Sedona / Lacewood). It worked like a charm, even if I did try to mess it up. Sanded thru 600 grit (usually I go all the way thru the MM dry, I think that that brings up a bit more action in the wood, and it doesn't take but a few minutes)
Put on about 6 coats, doing it by the book. The things I noticed is that the "Pinching" step seems to be the key, once it's on and good and smooth, that cooks it off and I suspect that you're getting a 'burnishing' action. That would explain the very smooth surface that results. It also seem to do a better job of filling the grain, again I'm falling back on the burnishing option.
I did a wet sand on the it thru the last 4 grits MM, didn't much like that. (of course I also used a fair amount of pressure, since my previous CA technique required a fair amount of sanding)
A couple more coats to undo the damage I did, a quick spin with some MMAP and it was looking good. A quick hit on the buffer with tripoli and White Diamond, really gleaming, good crisp sharp reflections of the light bulb. A quick spin with some Hutts Ultra Plastic Polish, and I had one of the best ones I've done yet, and it was super simple, and if I hadn't tried to vamp in the middle of the process, super quick.
I think that I may have just found a new favorite technique, thanks you William for sharing it.
Steve