Phillip Head Driver bits??

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jttheclockman

jttheclockman

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I am looking for good quality phillip head driver bits like used for sheet rock screws and other screws. It seems over the years they have become so cheap no matter what brand I try. Looking for #2, #3 and #4. I have tried ones they call premium but still strip so easily. Anyone with a proven brand and where did you get them? Thanks
 
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Hi JT,

Although the quality of some products seems to be fluid because of the quality/price trade-off caused by inflation.

I've been happy so far I have been using and am happy with the Makita Impact XPS bits. Mine have a titanium nitride coating.

The Milwaukee Shockwave bits have always been considered a top of the line product. If I didn't already have a lifetime supply of Maktia bits I would likely buy Milwaukee.

A few years ago, Project Farm did a review of several brands of screwdriver bits. Makita and Whia bits were always in the group of best performers in their testing. (Makita bits did pretty good as well and so did Bosch.

I'm curious to hear what others have to say so I will be following your thread!

Dave
 
I had trouble driving a sheet rock screw in oak. Solved the problem: run the screw in and out to cut threads, then drilled the hole in the second part a bit bigger.
Cradle.2.jpg
 
Don't know if you try to screw the screw in all at one time or if in short burst. I have found that by using very short burst of the drill the screws go in easier without stripping the head.
 
Mortalis said:
Are the driver heads stripping or are the screw heads stripping?

Are you using the wrong screws? <Video>
Click to expand...
Driver heads are stripping. The screws I use are various styles. from standard sheetrock to outdoor stainless and some coated screws. I have tried with standard screw gun, standard drill driver and also impact driver. Seems all have same effect. I have used Bosch, Dewalt, Klien. and bought some Diablo bits about a month ago and all do not hold up. Now none of these are coated with anything so maybe I need to try those.
 
I'm a big fan of the Star Drive, aka Torx, head as well and always try to find them first. When I first dumped most of my inventory of Phillips head screws I went to square drive, aka Robertson as they were the standard that came with Kreg pocket hole tools. My leap to mostly Star Drive came though when I found Milescraft Star Drive pocket screws a few years ago. Of course I still have quite a few Phillips and Robertson screws on hand, but for anything new I always try to get Star Drive first. Even black drywall screws are available with Torx now. - Dave
 
A couple things. I do know it is a no no to use sheet rock screws in wood projects but when hanging sheetrock I buy a course thread sheetrock screw because that is made for wood as where the fine threads are for metal studs. I am not over driving when hanging sheetrock so that is the screw for that. But the bits wear out too fast. Now maybe I need to start using more torx head screws for woodworking projects. That could be a problem solver. I just did a project today which is still part of my reorganizing my work shop. I put a couple shelves under my scrollsaws so that I can store some woodworking jigs. Very simple project. Drill the frame so screws bypass that. Was screwing into standard 2X4. We all know what quality they are today so nothing like the old hard stuff. I was using. #8 x 1-1/2" Inch Wood Screws Phillips Modified Truss Head Stainelss Steel 410 Self Tapping Metal Screws,Black Zinc. Used these for many different projects. Today they had a hard time with stripping the bit and then it rounded the screw head. Changed bits a few times till I finally got the project done. Thus is what prompted me to ask question. Screwing into plywood is not a problem but 2X4 material proved a problem.
 
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I had quite a few Phillips head driver bits (the ones that come 'bulk' in a small container from DeWalt. I didnt like them very much as they never really seemed to fit the Phillips head screws very securely. I bought a set of the DeWalt Elite Series Impact Driver Phillips head bits and they fit the screws much better plus they are rated for use with a impact driver. They do not show any signs of wear.
I am in the process switching over to all Torx screws and bits. I have never stripped the driver or the screws using the Torx system.
 
egnald said:
I'm a big fan of the Star Drive, aka Torx, head as well and always try to find them first. When I first dumped most of my inventory of Phillips head screws I went to square drive, aka Robertson as they were the standard that came with Kreg pocket hole tools. My leap to mostly Star Drive came though when I found Milescraft Star Drive pocket screws a few years ago. Of course I still have quite a few Phillips and Robertson screws on hand, but for anything new I always try to get Star Drive first. Even black drywall screws are available with Torx now. - Dave
Click to expand...
Yea; Either Square or Torx / Star drive. Use an impact driver(not drill driver). McFeelys is a good supplier of the screws. Milwaukee drivers. In Hard woods like oak, pre-drill the holes with a set of these. Tapered drill bit and countersink. Go slow and "peck" your way in.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/snappy-tapered-drill-countersink?variant=44025405243530

Trivia: You can also get "EC3" drive bits for electrical work. These fit those "funky" looking screws heads on electrical outlets and switches.
 
jttheclockman said:
A couple things. I do know it is a no no to use sheet rock screws in wood projects but when hanging sheetrock I buy a course thread sheetrock screw because that is made for wood as where the fine threads are for metal studs. I am not over driving when hanging sheetrock so that is the screw for that. But the bits wear out too fast. Now maybe I need to start using more torx head screws for woodworking projects. That could be a problem solver. I just did a project today which is still part of my reorganizing my work shop. I put a couple shelves under my scrollsaws so that I can store some woodworking jigs. Very simple project. Drill the frame so screws bypass that. Was screwing into standard 2X4. We all know what quality they are today so nothing like the old hard stuff. I was using. #8 x 1-1/2" Inch Wood Screws Phillips Modified Truss Head Stainelss Steel 410 Self Tapping Metal Screws,Black Zinc. Used these for many different projects. Today they had a hard time with stripping the bit and then it rounded the screw head. Changed bits a few times till I finally got the project done. Thus is what prompted me to ask question. Screwing into plywood is not a problem but 2X4 material proved a problem.
Click to expand...
Another thing you can try is buy a cheap bottle of hand soap (the liquid kind), dip your screw threads in that before drive them in. Use an impact driver and always try to keep the driver and the screw head at 90 degrees. Basically, you want full engagement with the bit and the screw head.
 
Interesting read of the same problem we all have experienced with wood Phillips head wood screws and drivers.

So time ago I was doing some metal work which included heat treating steel and harding. So just for experience I took a hand full of Philips head screw driver bits several different suppliers , heat teated and harden them.. Interesting results were the bits didn't strip out but screw heads stripped.

My fix is only use Star drive or Torx headed screws. Also use soap, hard floor wax and even with hard wood pre-drilll very small pilot hole.
 
Jarod888 said:
Another thing you can try is buy a cheap bottle of hand soap (the liquid kind), dip your screw threads in that before drive them in. Use an impact driver and always try to keep the driver and the screw head at 90 degrees. Basically, you want full engagement with the bit and the screw head.
Click to expand...
I have been using a bar of soap ever since I was about 10 years old to drive screws into hard woods because my father taught me that trick. That is an old woodworkers trick. I reallly do not want to use liquid soap because it will stain the wood and leave a problem. Do not ask how I know. I remember my Dad use to use slotted screws alot back then and had this old Yankee screwdriver. (The older woodworkers will know what that is.) Drilled holes with a brace and bit set too. He had a screw bit for it too so many times used that on some tough screws. All these fancy screws were not around back in those days like they are today. I always said I wish my Dad had the tools we have today when he was working on our house and even when he use to do woodworking for fun. Miss him a whole lot. I will probably switch to using more Torx screws in my projects. Will also try some of these coated phillips bits. Thanks all for the replys.
 
I am OLD school with this - I have not had much of a problem with Phillips head because of how I started out. I bought a couple of EARLY cordless/battery powered drills (9.6V?) in the late '80s (Makita) and loved the "cordless" tool world instantly. Because it was not real fast but had enough power, I learned to use that cordless drill with a Phillips head driver in it. I started using screws instead of nails in many situations. At that time I had not seen or heard of an "Impact Driver". (I was living in Japan then.)

I became addicted to "screws" over nails in most situations. BUT I learned to LEAN INTO the "cordless drill" to keep the Phillips bit from camming out. In the late '90s, I bought a cordless hammer drill and even used that as a drill screw driver. (Necessity is the mother of invention) When I first read about Impact drivers, I couldn't find them over there at the time, but when I bought my first one, It was heaven. To this day, I still put a good bit of (unnecessary) force in driving, but it does prevent the camming out.

The real issue for me is buying the right screws (with well engineered shafts and heads) that don't strip easily. I don't buy cheap or mediocre screws and I don't buy cheap or mediocre bits. I have broken more screws (long ones in framing) than I have had to cam out. I have had a number of bits break early on, before I found good ones. I rarely have one break now. I have used Bosch and Makitas bits, but prefer the ones Mortalis mentioned above - DeWalt Elite Series Impact Driver Phillips when I can find them on Amazon.
 
Many of my Square drive bits (Kreg Pocket Hole) have worn down over the years and dont drive the screws anymore. Maybe just a cheap driver that is included with the kits, dont know.
Just my observation.
 
Mortalis said:
Many of my Square drive bits (Kreg Pocket Hole) have worn down over the years and dont drive the screws anymore. Maybe just a cheap driver that is included with the kits, dont know.
Just my observation.
Click to expand...
Yea I put square screws in same catagory as phillips. I use to use square drive finishing screws for much of my molding work and they round over quickly. The Torx seem to be the best type screw to use.
 
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