Questions about turning stabilized wood

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Danny Linguini

Danny Linguini

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Nov 26, 2025
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RI, USA
My apologies if this has already been addressed, but I'm having a very hard time finding help anywhere. What I'm looking for is any tips for turning stabilized wood blanks. I have some colored stabilized maple burl and box elder on order that I'm hoping to use to make a couple of special pens for family members. I've only turned hardwood blanks so far, so before I plunge into these stabilized blanks, I'm looking for any info I can find on how best to tackle it, from drilling to turning to finishing. All I get from Google is sales ads and how to stabilize soft woods, but nothing at all about turning.

From what I've read about acrylics, I need to use a slower lathe speed and a very light touch with the tools, which is how I plan on approaching these blanks. I have up to 600 grit sandpaper, and mesh type pads that go up to 3000, so I think I'm covered there, and then finishing with EEE and Shellawax. Is there anything else I should be looking out for or be extra careful with that I as a noob might not be thinking of?
 
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Danny Linguini said:
My apologies if this has already been addressed, but I'm having a very hard time finding help anywhere. What I'm looking for is any tips for turning stabilized wood blanks. I have some colored stabilized maple burl and box elder on order that I'm hoping to use to make a couple of special pens for family members. I've only turned hardwood blanks so far, so before I plunge into these stabilized blanks, I'm looking for any info I can find on how best to tackle it, from drilling to turning to finishing. All I get from Google is sales ads and how to stabilize soft woods, but nothing at all about turning.

From what I've read about acrylics, I need to use a slower lathe speed and a very light touch with the tools, which is how I plan on approaching these blanks. I have up to 600 grit sandpaper, and mesh type pads that go up to 3000, so I think I'm covered there, and then finishing with EEE and Shellawax. Is there anything else I should be looking out for or be extra careful with that I as a noob might not be thinking of?
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Danny -
I am sure there are tons of opinions on this, but your comment on slow speed and light touch is only half right to me. I turn stabilized blanks with a VERY light touch but with the speed cranking at one of the highest speeds I feel safely to turn at. Typically I am turning at around 3,500 RPM, but slow and light with the touch. I also suggest really sharp tools and depending on the material, will stop and sharpen mid-way through the turn once again - maybe just a quick honing, but a good touch up to maintain the sharpness of the tool. One other suggestion I find helps is that if you have the ability, break the corners of the blank with a bandsaw or sander. Rounding off the corners before you put the blank on the lathe reduces the impacts on the blank during the initial cutting since the blank is already partially round.

Good luck with the pens - I am sure they will be an appreciated gift!!

Kevin
 
+1 for all of Kevin's (@NJturner) comments.

One more thing, depending on what was used to stabilize it and how long ago it was done, you should wear a 1/2 face respirator with VOC canisters on it. The last one I turned was nasty smelling. It turned out great, but stunk for a while during and after turning it.
 
Thank you for all the most helpful advice. The blanks arrived today, but I'm waiting for the mini 4-jaw and drill chuck so I can drill these out on the lathe, so I have a few more days to practice up my technique on regular wood, then sharpen the bajeezus out of those tools. I'll drop in again with updates.
 
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