Oops

[Paul in OKC]

Well darn.

 

[mark james]

Well darn.

Shoot... It's time to get creative if possible.

 

[leehljp]

That is what I am afraid of in making kitless without tubes.

 

[farmer]

That is what I am afraid of in making kitless without tubes.

Educate me , So kitless pens don't use some kind of tubing ?
How do you keep a pen that has about 500 segmented pieces in it not break if it doesn't some kind of support ?

 

[leehljp]

Educate me , So kitless pens don't use some kind of tubing ?
How do you keep a pen that has about 500 segmented pieces in it not break if it doesn't some kind of support ?

Some kitless ball points do, but most kitless fountain pens do not. The strength is built into thicker bodies in some cases, and selling to a finer clientele who take care of their pens, not forcing the threads or griping too tight to pressing to hard in writing.

 

[Penultimate]

I hate when that happens.

 

[Dalecamino]

It's all in the learning curve. He'll fix it.

 

[Bryguy]

Been there, done that. Unfortunately, I'll probably go there and do that again. It's called living on the edge! It is also how we learn. Push the boundaries!

 

[duncsuss]

Paul - I can't be certain from the photo, but it looks like that's a nib section you'd screwed into a piece of acetal/Delrin to hold it for shaping.

If so - what are the dimensions you were working with?

Seems there is enough wall thickness in that cylinder to hold provided you take light cuts and don't get a catch (of course, that depends on the material). What tool were you using?

Had you relieved the first couple of threads in the opening to allow for incomplete-threads where the tenon meets the body of the section?

 

[Paul in OKC]

Paul - I can't be certain from the photo, but it looks like that's a nib section you'd screwed into a piece of acetal/Delrin to hold it for shaping.

If so - what are the dimensions you were working with?

Seems there is enough wall thickness in that cylinder to hold provided you take light cuts and don't get a catch (of course, that depends on the material). What tool were you using?

Had you relieved the first couple of threads in the opening to allow for incomplete-threads where the tenon meets the body of the section?

You are correct. Was making a holder to do just that. And yes, I did relieve the first bit so it would shoulder up. I just went to give it a snug, and snappo! I am going to up my section thread a notch. This one was 7/16-20. Will probably go to a 14mm as it's the closest next bigger size.

 

[farmer]

Some kitless ball points do, but most kitless fountain pens do not. The strength is built into thicker bodies in some cases, and selling to a finer clientele who take care of their pens, not forcing the threads or griping too tight to pressing to hard in writing.

Thank you
after posting my question I went and read what you guys consider a kit less pen .
In the kit less pen section
Its really not that big of deal
The very few pens I have made are mostly kit less and segmented anyway.

Thank you for your answer

 

[Paul in OKC]

You are correct. Was making a holder to do just that. And yes, I did relieve the first bit so it would shoulder up. I just went to give it a snug, and snappo! I am going to up my section thread a notch. This one was 7/16-20. Will probably go to a 14mm as it's the closest next bigger size.

I meant 12mm, as it is between 7/16 and 1/2".

 

[duncsuss]

I meant 12mm, as it is between 7/16 and 1/2".

That still seems kind of large; I'd expect 9mm or 10mm - most of mine use M9x0.75 threads to hold the section in the barrel, and with a 1/4" hole in the middle for the ink cartridge/converter there is still enough wall strength in most materials I use (acrylic acetate, Alumilite, ebonite, Cebloplast ...)

Which makes me wonder: (a) what diameter is the hole you drilled out for the ink reservoir?

And (b) what material is this?

 

[Paul in OKC]

That still seems kind of large; I'd expect 9mm or 10mm - most of mine use M9x0.75 threads to hold the section in the barrel, and with a 1/4" hole in the middle for the ink cartridge/converter there is still enough wall strength in most materials I use (acrylic acetate, Alumilite, ebonite, Cebloplast ...)

Which makes me wonder: (a) what diameter is the hole you drilled out for the ink reservoir?

And (b) what material is this?

Hole was probably a bit large at .281 where the cartridge would go, minor diameter on the thread was around .350-ish? I'm sure if I went with a finer thread there would be a bit more thickness. Material is bowling ball, so some sort of resin. It's not as strong as Alumulite I don't think, but is something I been playing with.

 

[duncsuss]

Hole was probably a bit large at .281 where the cartridge would go, minor diameter on the thread was around .350-ish? I'm sure if I went with a finer thread there would be a bit more thickness. Material is bowling ball, so some sort of resin. It's not as strong as Alumulite I don't think, but is something I been playing with.

I don't think in TPI and hadn't done the conversion from 20tpi to metric - it would definitely give more wall strength if you go to something like 30 or 32 tpi (which are much closer to the 0.75mm threads I normally use).

Somewhere I read that bowling balls used to be made from ebonite - but I don't know if that's still true. The other factor is that if it's been used, there might be some stress fractures which don't cause trouble until you try making a thin-walled cylinder.

I hope you have better success with the next try

 

[Paul in OKC]

I don't think in TPI and hadn't done the conversion from 20tpi to metric - it would definitely give more wall strength if you go to something like 30 or 32 tpi (which are much closer to the 0.75mm threads I normally use).

Somewhere I read that bowling balls used to be made from ebonite - but I don't know if that's still true. The other factor is that if it's been used, there might be some stress fractures which don't cause trouble until you try making a thin-walled cylinder.

I hope you have better success with the next try

I have run across a couple that I think were ebonite. I think most are an acrylic or PR of a sort.