Faceted pen from Elforyn

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Teodor

Teodor

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2019
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256
Location
Brno Czech Republic
Hello all,
This a pen made from Elforyn material. There are 10 facets on the cap and 12 on the barel.
The threads on the barel are made from ebonite.
The most challenging part was the sanding and polishing.
Nice day everyone.
Teo
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May I ask how you produced the facet. Or is it a closely guarded secret.
You have certainly made a Beautiful pen.
 
Love the pen and each aspect you did with it. Had to look that material up for I never heard of it. Now the question is where did you get it and is it something that can be found without restrictions such as laws against it's use?? I know you are not in the USA but maybe a supplier that may have it. Does it come in various colors and patterns?? Thanks for showing.
 
jttheclockman said:
Love the pen and each aspect you did with it. Had to look that material up for I never heard of it. Now the question is where did you get it and is it something that can be found without restrictions such as laws against it's use?? I know you are not in the USA but maybe a supplier that may have it. Does it come in variouscolors and patterns?? Thanks for showing.
Click to expand...
Exotic blanks carries it....

Juma Pen Blanks - Golden Dragon #3271-3274

Juma Pen Blanks are made from a specialty acrylic material that features vibrant colors and an amazing reptile patterning that goes throughout the blank. These blanks give a unique WOW look to your hand made pens.Blanks are approx. 7/8 x 1 x 5"Priced: Per Each. One of a KindPlease choose your...
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Very beautiful pen !!!

You say ... " The most challenging part was the sanding and polishing." ... I can well understand why that is so.
How did you overcome the tendency for the corners to become more and more rounded during the sanding and polishing ?

Also, is there a practical (other than aesthetic) reason for doing different numbers of facets on the cap compared to barrel ?
I can think of one possible reason ... "hiding" of facet alignment issues when screwing on the cap. . Anything else ?

I notice that you did the same on this other pen you showed .....

Faceted Wood pen, Urushi Top layer

Hi everyone, So....from where to start with this one. It's made from wood, Lignum Vitae, 10 facets on cap, 12 on barel. Sealed with Urushi, silver powder, a couple of layers for Tamenuri and gloss finish. The section is made from Ebonite, golden flakes and nashiji. The threads are made from...
www.penturners.org

With the threads on a separate piece ( ebonite ) you can do initial alignment at the time the ebonite piece is glued in.
But if the threads are multi-start, the alignment could change from one time to the next, depending on the thread details.
I guess this could be at least part of an answer to my question.

Final question - (until I think of more :rolleyes::cool: ), did you do the facets with a milling machine ?
 
Last edited:
magpens said:
Very beautiful pen !!!

You say ... " The most challenging part was the sanding and polishing." ... I can well understand why that is so.
How did you overcome the tendency for the corners to become more and more rounded during the sanding and polishing ?

Also, is there a practical (other than aesthetic) reason for doing different numbers of facets on the cap compared to barrel ?
I can think of one possible reason ... "hiding" of facet alignment issues when screwing on the cap. . Anything else ?

I notice that you did the same on this other pen you showed .....

Faceted Wood pen, Urushi Top layer

Hi everyone, So....from where to start with this one. It's made from wood, Lignum Vitae, 10 facets on cap, 12 on barel. Sealed with Urushi, silver powder, a couple of layers for Tamenuri and gloss finish. The section is made from Ebonite, golden flakes and nashiji. The threads are made from...
www.penturners.org

With the threads on a separate piece ( ebonite ) you can do initial alignment at the time the ebonite piece is glued in.
But if the threads are multi-start, the alignment could change from one time to the next, depending on the thread details.
I guess this could be at least part of an answer to my question.

Final question - (until I think of more :rolleyes::cool: ), did you do the facets with a milling machine ?
Click to expand...
Hi there,

So many challenges with this pen....
I spent several hours thinking how to make it and obviously the first choice will be with a mill but hey I have a very small shop and I don't want to end down to my neighbours floor.
I have a Myford Super7 that has a lot of accessories, one of them being a vertical slide where I mounted a dividing plate.
The rest was quite simple, adjust the angle to create a taper and a lot of elbow grease.

Now facets...the cap and barrel have different thicknesses so it will be very difficult to obtain equal sizes facets for same number, also a pain to align them...
So the obvious choice was to make 10 on the cap and 12 on the barel.
As for the sanding, yes I wanted them rounded but actually it's a pain to sand so I have different designs to test... especially for Urushi work...but we'll it's manual work and beauty is in imperfections.
 

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Well thanks for letting us in on the method used to produce the facets. I remember the Myford Super 7 from my engineering days also a great machine for model makers. I think you have made a great looking pen.
How you made it is very interesting not strictly wood turning I suppose but a great achievement well done.
 
Teodor said:
Hi there,

So many challenges with this pen....
I spent several hours thinking how to make it and obviously the first choice will be with a mill but hey I have a very small shop and I don't want to end down to my neighbours floor.
I have a Myford Super7 that has a lot of accessories, one of them being a vertical slide where I mounted a dividing plate.
The rest was quite simple, adjust the angle to create a taper and a lot of elbow grease.

Now facets...the cap and barrel have different thicknesses so it will be very difficult to obtain equal sizes facets for same number, also a pain to align them...
So the obvious choice was to make 10 on the cap and 12 on the barel.
As for the sanding, yes I wanted them rounded but actually it's a pain to sand so I have different designs to test... especially for Urushi work...but we'll it's manual work and beauty is in imperfections.
Click to expand...

Hi Teodor,

Thank you very much for these explanations !!!

I fully understand now the reason for the different number of facets on the barrel and the cap .... a question of the available "meat", as we'd say !!

Cheers, and thanks again !!
 
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