Tru-Stone pen Tips

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RussBerg

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Oct 6, 2018
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For Christmas I am going to make Tru-Stone Majestic Jr. pens for my Family. I sure would appreciate any suggestions to help me avoid "screwing up". The Blanks are way too expensive to waste.
 
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More4dan

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Mar 17, 2016
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Katy, TX
Here are a couple from my experience.

Sharp "normal" drill bits, not brad points. Drill smaller and step up diameters to reduce the stress. This material can lead to oversized holes so approach the filial dimension carefully and check.
Keep the blank cool.
Remove chips often when drilling at most I do three turns on the tail stock at a time.
Keep the blank cool.
Sand the edges of the blank before turning round.
Keep the blank cool.
Sharp turning tools and light cuts.
Keep the blank cool.
I use HSS to turn round then carbide to turn to shape.

I glue with epoxy and make sure I get good coverage. I wet sand only.
Keep the blank cool.
Alternate sanding direction with each grit, lengthwise then spinning. The goal is each grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. I Then micro mesh through 12000 and then use a liquid polish to finish. A buffer works great too but if it catches and throws the pen it will crack. It also generates heat, so be careful and ... well you get the idea.

Danny


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ed4copies

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Mar 25, 2005
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Location
Racine, WI, USA.
If they have veins running through them, those are weak spots and can easily break when drilling. Might want to use popsicle sticks to support,
as demonstrated here:
 

magpens

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When drilling .... do it in 3 or 4 stages, gradually getting to the correct size .... low RPM.

When turning .... keep the cuts VERY light .... be VERY patient .... low RPM.

Follow Danny's advice. . The initial rounding is a critical stage and you want to avoid chipping so sanding is a good method.
 
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Wow! Absolutely great advice above.
Keep the blank cool
And, yes, VERY important to be careful when pressing in components. Should be just a bit more than a slip fit. I used to use CA with a slip fit but was cautioned not to use CA.
Keep the blank cool
 

ed4copies

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Why not use CA?
Because when it "offgasses", it can make the plated parts turn white. This can be removed fairly easily with acetone, which will also dull the finish on acrylics or CA finished wood.

Use Loctite red or blue or epoxy if you are neat--always put the adhesive in the brass tube, not on the component, that way you will not smear it on the pen (as readily)!!
 

RussBerg

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
Here are a couple from my experience.

Sharp "normal" drill bits, not brad points. Drill smaller and step up diameters to reduce the stress. This material can lead to oversized holes so approach the filial dimension carefully and check.
Keep the blank cool.
Remove chips often when drilling at most I do three turns on the tail stock at a time.
Keep the blank cool.
Sand the edges of the blank before turning round.
Keep the blank cool.
Sharp turning tools and light cuts.
Keep the blank cool.
I use HSS to turn round then carbide to turn to shape.

I glue with epoxy and make sure I get good coverage. I wet sand only.
Keep the blank cool.
Alternate sanding direction with each grit, lengthwise then spinning. The goal is each grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. I Then micro mesh through 12000 and then use a liquid polish to finish. A buffer works great too but if it catches and throws the pen it will crack. It also generates heat, so be careful and ... well you get the idea.

Danny


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Thank you for the advice. I'll cross my fingers and see if I can do this.
 

Mr Vic

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Aug 11, 2008
Messages
1,865
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Falcon, CO
You don't say what Tru-Stone you're using. The Turquoise, Malachite and Pink Coral turn like butter.
The Blue Lapis and Bloody Red Jasper are like turning concrete. Keep tools sharp.

Oh and keep tools SHARP!!
 

RussBerg

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
Here are a couple from my experience.

Sharp "normal" drill bits, not brad points. Drill smaller and step up diameters to reduce the stress. This material can lead to oversized holes so approach the filial dimension carefully and check.
Keep the blank cool.
Remove chips often when drilling at most I do three turns on the tail stock at a time.
Keep the blank cool.
Sand the edges of the blank before turning round.
Keep the blank cool.
Sharp turning tools and light cuts.
Keep the blank cool.
I use HSS to turn round then carbide to turn to shape.

I glue with epoxy and make sure I get good coverage. I wet sand only.
Keep the blank cool.
Alternate sanding direction with each grit, lengthwise then spinning. The goal is each grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. I Then micro mesh through 12000 and then use a liquid polish to finish. A buffer works great too but if it catches and throws the pen it will crack. It also generates heat, so be careful and ... well you get the idea.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
At what speed would you drill the blanks?
 

More4dan

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Messages
2,102
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Katy, TX
I drill on my mini metal lathe that doesn't have a rpm meter. I'm guessing about 500-700 rpm. I would drill slower than I normally do for acrylic. Also I try not to drill all the way through the blank. It can chip where the bit is exiting the blank. I'll drill for the body then cut to length. I then drill the cap to length and cut off the excess.

Danny


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eteska

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Oct 29, 2019
Messages
261
Location
Wisconsin
I drill on my mini metal lathe that doesn't have a rpm meter. I'm guessing about 500-700 rpm. I would drill slower than I normally do for acrylic. Also I try not to drill all the way through the blank. It can chip where the bit is exiting the blank. I'll drill for the body then cut to length. I then drill the cap to length and cut off the excess.

Danny


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I am no expert at true stone by any means but this is good advise. I blew my first blank out as I exited with the drill bit. I have also cracked a couple pressing the parts together. I plan to go to slip fit and loctite on my next one.

Good luck. And I'd like to see the results when finished



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mark james

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All the above advise is excellent! Be patient and it will be worth the effort. I'll second Mr Vic's Q. There are very different densities to the varieties of Trustone. Also, is it actual Trustone or one of the more recent iterations?
 

RussBerg

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Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
I am no expert at true stone by any means but this is good advise. I blew my first blank out as I exited with the drill bit. I have also cracked a couple pressing the parts together. I plan to go to slip fit and loctite on my next one.

Good luck. And I'd like to see the results when finished



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Thanks for the advice. Assuming I don't screw them all up I'll post the results.
 

RussBerg

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
All the above advise is excellent! Be patient and it will be worth the effort. I'll second Mr Vic's Q. There are very different densities to the varieties of Trustone. Also, is it actual Trustone or one of the more recent iterations?
I ordered from Pen State, so it is what they call Trustone.
 

RussBerg

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
Here are a couple from my experience.

Sharp "normal" drill bits, not brad points. Drill smaller and step up diameters to reduce the stress. This material can lead to oversized holes so approach the filial dimension carefully and check.
Keep the blank cool.
Remove chips often when drilling at most I do three turns on the tail stock at a time.
Keep the blank cool.
Sand the edges of the blank before turning round.
Keep the blank cool.
Sharp turning tools and light cuts.
Keep the blank cool.
I use HSS to turn round then carbide to turn to shape.

I glue with epoxy and make sure I get good coverage. I wet sand only.
Keep the blank cool.
Alternate sanding direction with each grit, lengthwise then spinning. The goal is each grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. I Then micro mesh through 12000 and then use a liquid polish to finish. A buffer works great too but if it catches and throws the pen it will crack. It also generates heat, so be careful and ... well you get the idea.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
I drill on my mini metal lathe that doesn't have a rpm meter. I'm guessing about 500-700 rpm. I would drill slower than I normally do for acrylic. Also I try not to drill all the way through the blank. It can chip where the bit is exiting the blank. I'll drill for the body then cut to length. I then drill the cap to length and cut off the excess.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
When sanding the edges before turning the blank, can you explain what you do? Ex., how much do you sand, grit, on the lathe at slow speed or not, etc.? What speed do you turn the blank after sanding? I very much appreciate and advice you can give.
 

More4dan

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Mar 17, 2016
Messages
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Location
Katy, TX
Sure. I sand the corners off the length of the blank using my belt sander. I break the edge so when I'm turning I'm not hitting a 90 degree edge with my cutter. It reduces the impact later when turning on the lathe. I use a 80 or 120 grit belt. I'm sure a large disc sander could also work.

Others have used a router table and holder to do the same.

I usually turn at about 2000 rpm taking light cuts until round.

Danny


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RussBerg

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Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
Sure. I sand the corners off the length of the blank using my belt sander. I break the edge so when I'm turning I'm not hitting a 90 degree edge with my cutter. It reduces the impact later when turning on the lathe. I use a 80 or 120 grit belt. I'm sure a large disc sander could also work.

Others have used a router table and holder to do the same.

I usually turn at about 2000 rpm taking light cuts until round.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Thanks. Much appreciated.
 

randyrls

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Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,821
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
I am no expert at true stone by any means but this is good advise. I blew my first blank out as I exited with the drill bit. I have also cracked a couple pressing the parts together. I plan to go to slip fit and loctite on my next one.

To join the thread; Use a cut long; drill short; cut off the excess technique. That means cut the blanks about 1/4"+ longer than needed. Mark the center and drill outward from the centers. Mark the length of the tube on the side of the drill bit with a Sharpie marker. Drill until the mark disappears into the blank and stop. Go back and cut the UNDRILLED END to tube length + 1/32" PAINT the inside of the blank with a rattle can of spray paint. Wear gloves! Glue the tube into the blank. Now trim the blank to exact length with a sanding jig of some kind. Make sure to put a chamfer on the tube. Use the sanding jig to knock off the sharp corners of the Tru-stone.
 

RussBerg

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Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
Well, two down and five to go. I watched several videos in addition to all of the great advice you all gave me. I learned from the videos Both pens came out great. I will post pictures when all are done. Does anyone have a suggestion for a pen box? It is hard to tell what will work based upon the information on the web sites. Oh, the pens which are done are a black true stone with gold matrix and Rhodium/black pen kit. The second one is turquoise with gold matrix true stone and Rhodium/gold pen kit Learned from the videos but all of your advice was much more valuable. For that, thank you all again.
 

David350

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Sep 10, 2017
Messages
423
Location
Dallas, TX
I hope I'm not too late with this, but as was mentioned before, I too have had the most cracks when assembling. Be extra picky when making sure you have the insides of the brass tubes very clean, as in no epoxy or whatever glue you use to attach brass tubes to your blanks. It only takes the smallest bit of epoxy, etc. to create the extra pressure when assembling sufficient to crack your blank. I know from experience that the Tru-Stone blanks have absolutely no forgiveness for this oversight....
 

RussBerg

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Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
34
Location
Wi. summer-Az. winter
I hope I'm not too late with this, but as was mentioned before, I too have had the most cracks when assembling. Be extra picky when making sure you have the insides of the brass tubes very clean, as in no epoxy or whatever glue you use to attach brass tubes to your blanks. It only takes the smallest bit of epoxy, etc. to create the extra pressure when assembling sufficient to crack your blank. I know from experience that the Tru-Stone blanks have absolutely no forgiveness for this oversight....
I've got 4 done and 2 to go. All has gone very well except for number 5 which failed due to a rookie mistake. I drilled the blank crooked and did not like the result so I'm doing it over. At the price of true stone and the Majestic Jr. kits I won't do that again.
 
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