Casting My Own Abalone/Snake Pens!

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Those are all beautiful.
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Looks like you figured it out, Great Job !
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Those are very beautiful, Seth !!!!! . Congratulations !!!!
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Thank you all!! It did take a few different trys to get it right but I have had a great time casting!

Oh, and I forgot to give my younger brother credit for catching/skinning/tanning the rattlesnake skins. He's done a great job with them!
 
Fantastic Pens, Seth
Magnificent Blanks,
Very Clever and Shrewd, getting your Younger Brother, to Catch, Skin, and Tan, the Snake Skins, leaving you with the Dangerous Task of Casting? :smile-big::wink:
If you are Sixteen, then How Old is your Younger Brother? :rolleyes:
Joking Aside, What a Talented Combination you both Make.
I love the Accuracy and Skill you show in your work.
Great Craftsmanship.
Congratulations,
Brian.
 
OZturner said:
Fantastic Pens, Seth
Magnificent Blanks,
Very Clever and Shrewd, getting your Younger Brother, to Catch, Skin, and Tan, the Snake Skins, leaving you with the Dangerous Task of Casting? :smile-big::wink:
If you are Sixteen, then How Old is your Younger Brother? :rolleyes:
Joking Aside, What a Talented Combination you both Make.
I love the Accuracy and Skill you show in your work.
Great Craftsmanship.
Congratulations,
Brian.
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Thank you! My brother that does most of the skins is 15. Actually, all the "older boys" in the family take care of the snakes on the property (we can't keep them around because they are dangerous to our dogs and horses). However, Nate (the 15-year-old) is really into leather work and catches most of the snakes. The snakes that I used for the pens above were caught by Nate (15) and Stephen (13).
 
Flush1974 said:
Great Job Ronald,

They look fantastic!!! I have a Copperhead skin I'm planning on doing soon. It's pretty see through, did you have to paint your tubes prior to casting?

Steve
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Thank you! Yes, you will probably want to paint the tube if you don't want to see the brass. In the pens above, you can see that there are darker ones and lighter ones. The tubes of the darker ones were painted black and the lighter ones were not painted and you can see the tube a little (not noticeable in the photos). I have tried gray but that seems to make it a dull color.
 
Rolandranch said:
Flush1974 said:
The tubes of the darker ones were painted black and the lighter ones were not painted and you can see the tube a little (not noticeable in the photos). I have tried gray but that seems to make it a dull color.
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What about using more than one layer of skin? That way you would have an underlayment of the same color. Or you could use a less colorful skin to go underneath. Or you also could use the transparency to your advantage and give the barrels more sparkles to bring out the sparkle in the skins.

Just some thoughts. I have not done either type of barrel so take my advice with some reservation.

Geffre
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geffre said:
Rolandranch said:
What about using more than one layer of skin? That way you would have an underlayment of the same color. Or you could use a less colorful skin to go underneath. Or you also could use the transparency to your advantage and give the barrels more sparkles to bring out the sparkle in the skins.

Just some thoughts. I have not done either type of barrel so take my advice with some reservation.

Geffre
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I don't think I'd use more than one layer of skin just to try to save the skin. I have left some of my tubes unpainted and it does give it a bit of sparkle which I don't mind. It kind of adds another dimension to the skin.
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its_virgil said:
paint your tubes
Remove scale covers (if you aren't already)

Do a good turn daily!
Don
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Thanks for all your help Mr. Ward! I've learned a lot about casting snakeskin blanks from you. And yes, all the scales covers are removed. I do have a quick question for you if you see this. Do you have more problems with casting smaller skins than larger skins? (Problems like faded color, bubbles, or skin shrinkage?) Just curious because it seems that way for me. Thanks.
 
Photography is certainly better than mine. Keep on killing snakes, Tuscon has a bunch of them. Good work. I cannot offer any suggestions except your work looks very good.
 
Jgrden said:
Photography is certainly better than mine. Keep on killing snakes, Tuscon has a bunch of them. Good work. I cannot offer any suggestions except your work looks very good.
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Thank you for the kind words. And yes, Tucson is full of rattlesnakes...and so is our freezer!
 
Those are amazing! Can you walk us through your process? I've tried casting snakeskin and had marginal results. After removing the scale casings, do you coat the skin with anything before you cast? Do you use pressure, vacuum, or neither?

How in the world do you get those abalone strips? Are they purchased ready made, or do you cut them yourself?
 
eranox said:
Those are amazing! Can you walk us through your process? I've tried casting snakeskin and had marginal results. After removing the scale casings, do you coat the skin with anything before you cast? Do you use pressure, vacuum, or neither?

How in the world do you get those abalone strips? Are they purchased ready made, or do you cut them yourself?
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Thank you. There are articles written on both these topics in the IAP Library that I have learned a lot from. There's a lot of useful information there.

Some people buy already cut strips but I buy whole sheets of abalone and use a razor to cut them.
I have not had consistent success for casting snakeskins yet, though I am getting there. I wash the skins with soapy water first and then descale them. I have tried coating the skins with different things - thin CA and clear acrylic spray paint. Thin CA works better. However, if you are using skins with larger scales, it looks better uncoated. Again, I'm still experimenting and this may not work for your specific skins. It seems that different types of snakes take different methods.

Edit: Just to add, I don't use vacuum or pressure. I use heat. Not too hot, maybe 100-130 degrees F...not exactly sure what temp I use but I've had best success with heat.
 
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Rolandranch said:
geffre said:
How did you cut your abalone parts to fit around the barrel? They are beautiful blanks. Thank you for the pictures.
Brian
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Thank you! It just took some careful calculations and a few test runs to get all the strips the same size.
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What type of saw do you use? Is the shell delicate or is it easy to cut?

Brian
 
Rolandranch said:
geffre said:
Rolandranch said:
What about using more than one layer of skin? That way you would have an underlayment of the same color. Or you could use a less colorful skin to go underneath. Or you also could use the transparency to your advantage and give the barrels more sparkles to bring out the sparkle in the skins.

Just some thoughts. I have not done either type of barrel so take my advice with some reservation.

Geffre
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I don't think I'd use more than one layer of skin just to try to save the skin. I have left some of my tubes unpainted and it does give it a bit of sparkle which I don't mind. It kind of adds another dimension to the skin.
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What about backing the skin with a cheaper skin, say buckskin or even cloth.

Why take off the scales? Do the scales lift in the process of casting the skin? Have you tried fish skin?
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He is not removing the scales but the clear scale covers. Why, you asked? First, the the space between the scale covers and the actual scales are an excellent place for air to get trapped. Air and resin do not play well together. Second, they like to come lose anyway and if they do they float in the resin. Yes, most will end on the floor but some will be between the skin itself and the outer surface and do not look good.If you have ever seen my blanks the scale covers have been removed. Scales are quite vivid still.

As far as another layer under the skin thicker is not better. The amount of resin left covering the skin is very thin. Adding another material under will be problematic and mod likely the outer skin will get exposed...the resin will get turned off the skin.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Both skins have their pros and cons. Skins from young snakes are more fragile. They have much less fatty tissue and can be cleaned so the skin is very thin but it is fragile. The pattern is smaller and tighter and looks great. I think maybe a little harder to work. Larger snakes have thicker skin and that can be a problem when rapping and gluing. I buy raw skins from a local snake hunt and clean them myself. I scrape and scrape to remove as much flesh as I can. The more the better. Thinner skin tans softer. There is a limit (for me at least) on the size skin I like to use. I like to stay under 36 inches..the problem is the snake hunts sell the meat and there is not much meat on the smaller snakes so no motivation to butcher them. Just some of my thoughts.

I will be glad to share my process with you if you are interested.

I love the look of the Arizona red diamond back...to bad they are protected.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Rolandranch said:
its_virgil said:
paint your tubes
Remove scale covers (if you aren't already)

Do a good turn daily!
Don
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Thanks for all your help Mr. Ward! I've learned a lot about casting snakeskin blanks from you. And yes, all the scales covers are removed. I do have a quick question for you if you see this. Do you have more problems with casting smaller skins than larger skins? (Problems like faded color, bubbles, or skin shrinkage?) Just curious because it seems that way for me. Thanks.
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its_virgil said:
Both skins have their pros and cons. Skins from young snakes are more fragile. They have much less fatty tissue and can be cleaned so the skin is very thin but it is fragile. The pattern is smaller and tighter and looks great. I think maybe a little harder to work. Larger snakes have thicker skin and that can be a problem when rapping and gluing. I buy raw skins from a local snake hunt and clean them myself. I scrape and scrape to remove as much flesh as I can. The more the better. Thinner skin tans softer. There is a limit (for me at least) on the size skin I like to use. I like to stay under 36 inches..the problem is the snake hunts sell the meat and there is not much meat on the smaller snakes so no motivation to butcher them. Just some of my thoughts.

I will be glad to share my process with you if you are interested.

I love the look of the Arizona red diamond back...to bad they are protected.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Rolandranch said:
its_virgil said:
paint your tubes
Remove scale covers (if you aren't already)

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...
Thanks for all your help Mr. Ward! I've learned a lot about casting snakeskin blanks from you. And yes, all the scales covers are removed. I do have a quick question for you if you see this. Do you have more problems with casting smaller skins than larger skins? (Problems like faded color, bubbles, or skin shrinkage?) Just curious because it seems that way for me. Thanks.
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I have no interest in this topic - (don't mean to be offensive)! But I LOVE the exchange of ideas and the willingness of Don to educate - No Surprise! Great exchange of ideas and questions. Kudos Don!
 
its_virgil said:
Both skins have their pros and cons. Skins from young snakes are more fragile. They have much less fatty tissue and can be cleaned so the skin is very thin but it is fragile. The pattern is smaller and tighter and looks great. I think maybe a little harder to work. Larger snakes have thicker skin and that can be a problem when rapping and gluing. I buy raw skins from a local snake hunt and clean them myself. I scrape and scrape to remove as much flesh as I can. The more the better. Thinner skin tans softer. There is a limit (for me at least) on the size skin I like to use. I like to stay under 36 inches..the problem is the snake hunts sell the meat and there is not much meat on the smaller snakes so no motivation to butcher them. Just some of my thoughts.

I will be glad to share my process with you if you are interested.

I love the look of the Arizona red diamond back...to bad they are protected.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
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Thank you so much! This is exactly the advice that I need.
So, how do you tan your skins? I have always used glycerin and rubbing alcohol but I think this is causing problems with the skins when I cast them. I have done some research, but have not found any other method of tanning. I (and my brothers) hunt snakes specifically for pens so we have plenty of smaller skins to work with. When I cast these skins, though, I usually get white areas. This is the reason I have been using bigger ones lately. Again, I think but am not sure if this is related to the tanning process.
Thanks so much for your time.
 
I also tan with rubbing alcohol and glycerin. But, I purchase alcohol from a medical supply and get 99% instead of the 89 or 91% locally. The other 10% is water.

I first soak the skins in warm water with dawn dishwashing liquid and pinesol for about an hour or so. This helps remove fat from the skins. Rinse and dry and place in the alcohol/glycerin mix (50-50) for 5 or six days.
Remove, rinse and dry on a towel.

I put a think coat of glycerin on the flesh side and smooth out on a board to dry for a couple of days. Roll loosely and place in plastic bag.

I think the white frosty spots are caused by CA glue. I wipe down the skins with a good grade of lacquer thinner once they are glued to the tube and have had a day for the glue to cure. I wipe them down just before putting them in the mold. Since starting with the lacquer thinner my failures have greatly been reduced. I have gone through 5 gallons of resin and have had maybe 5 or 6 blanks that I would not sell.

you may be interested in the two videos here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfTmJ9EKhJfcghR8kghQfZw

I do paint the tubes. I do not like the brass tube showing and it does with the skins from younger snakes.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Rolandranch said:
its_virgil said:
Both skins have their pros and cons. Skins from young snakes are more fragile. They have much less fatty tissue and can be cleaned so the skin is very thin but it is fragile. The pattern is smaller and tighter and looks great. I think maybe a little harder to work. Larger snakes have thicker skin and that can be a problem when rapping and gluing. I buy raw skins from a local snake hunt and clean them myself. I scrape and scrape to remove as much flesh as I can. The more the better. Thinner skin tans softer. There is a limit (for me at least) on the size skin I like to use. I like to stay under 36 inches..the problem is the snake hunts sell the meat and there is not much meat on the smaller snakes so no motivation to butcher them. Just some of my thoughts.

I will be glad to share my process with you if you are interested.

I love the look of the Arizona red diamond back...to bad they are protected.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! This is exactly the advice that I need.
So, how do you tan your skins? I have always used glycerin and rubbing alcohol but I think this is causing problems with the skins when I cast them. I have done some research, but have not found any other method of tanning. I (and my brothers) hunt snakes specifically for pens so we have plenty of smaller skins to work with. When I cast these skins, though, I usually get white areas. This is the reason I have been using bigger ones lately. Again, I think but am not sure if this is related to the tanning process.
Thanks so much for your time.
Click to expand...
 
Alright, drum roll. I put 8 blanks in the oven tonight. 4 bolt action and 4 Vertex. We'll see what comes out tomorrow. I got some molds from PtownSubbie and am surprised at how much resin they save. I only used about 4 oz for 8 blanks. Thank you Mr. Ward for all the tips and for taking the time to share your method. I'll post pics soon of how they turn out.
 

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I finished all of the bolt actions last night and they turned out very nice. This is definitely, by far, the best batch of snakeskin blanks I've ever made. Thank you again for all the tips, Mr. Ward.
 

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