I know the experience .... gluing the tube in is an uncertain process.
Need to be careful with open grained woods like oak ... the grain pattern can mess you up like this. Did you get a catch with a skew? or was it a gouge? In either case, a very sharp tool and proper usage can help a lot (firm against toolrest, rub bevel, lift to cut), but roughing it with 80-grit sandpaper can do for really finicky woods.
It looks like your hole in the blank was either not round or way too large for the tube. You have evidence of glue/epoxy on the inside of the blank but no evidence that it ever contacted the tube.
Been there and done that! I recently switched from 5 minute epoxy to Gorilla Poly glue. So far (knocks on wood) I have not had a blow out with Poly glue. I like how it expands to ensure a good tight bond. It's also 10x easier to clean up than epoxy. The over foam just pulls right off and my dental wax tube plugs pop out easily.
It's not the glue, it's the turning technique. One drop of CA or a small dab of epoxy will hold a tube in place for turning if your cuts are smooth. No amount of any type of adhesive will prevent a breakout if you are too aggressive.
It's really helpful to others here when you post a failure like this and let everyone chime in. Thanks, Jim!
It looks like you have something in the tube to stop it from getting epoxy inside. That was going to be my suggestion to use sheet dental wax and apply the epoxy heavily, even putting a big glob inside and twisting the tube as it went in to spread it everywhere from both ends. A little epoxy left over dripping off the blank is much easier to handle and cheaper than ruining a blank. I haven't lost a blank since I started doing it that way. Now watch the first one will be this afternoon when I get home. I realize that you are most likely doing everything I said already but nubies reading this might pick up something from it. I have to say that pressing in dental wax is the single best improvement to my process of glue ups that I have made since I started and for the cost (about 5 pen kits for a penny) it is one of the best gadget investments I have made.
I use Plumber's Putty to fill the ends.
The blank came out really nice. I like the texture from the grain.
Sharp tools and easy does it.
I wasn't taking any chances this time. I cut the corners off the blank to reduce the stresses when I roughed it round. I was also much less aggressive. Success!
I wasn't taking any chances this time. I cut the corners off the blank to reduce the stresses when I roughed it round. I was also much less aggressive. Success!
Please be careful turning with a cloth glove! If that snags the threads on the lathe shaft, or a square edge, you are in big trouble! You would also be better off with a scraper tool, compared to using the gouge as a scraper.
That glove was rubber .....
The "fuzzies" was from using a cloth applicator for the stain, which was still not that great an idea for something spinning on the lathe.
Use paper towels for application of anything to your spinning lathe projects .... paper towel will tear long before pulling your fingers into the spindle. I take a sheet of the blue shop towels you can get at the auto parts store (VERY strong stuff, and lint-free!) and fold it lengthwise 4 times to create a thick pad ... then I take a very sharp pair of cloth scissors and cut roughly 3/4 inch pads from it into a small clean container .... I usually cut up 2 or 3 sheets at a time so that I have a nice supply when I want it.
Before drilling your blanks, make sure that there are no checks and cracks in the ends. Double check after trimming .... if there is, you can seal that area with some thin CA and give it 20 minutes to cure before turning.