Using as skew??

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I need help with using a skew for turning a pen blank. How do I set the tool rest? When I sure a carbide I have the rest set so the cutter it at the center like of the blank. I've looked at videos but they really don't say. Thanks for the help.
 
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I'd look at some YouTube videos Dan. Seeing is better than explaining

Some folks seem to use the skew much higher on the blank for pens.

Are you using a regular skew or oval skew?

For pens, I use an oval skew that I have a particular grind on that gives me lots of bevel support.
 
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I never got formal instructions either. But, in experimenting, I found the best location for me (so far) is above center with the tool rest as close to the blank as possible. The skew laying almost horizontal and, taking more of a slicing cut along the surface. Ed Brown and, others are masters using this tool. Maybe someone else can explain the use better than I have.

Additionally, I think I like the toe on the bottom best.
 
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dalecamino said:
I never got formal instructions either. But, in experimenting, I found the best location for me (so far) is above center with the tool rest as close to the blank as possible. The skew laying almost horizontal and, taking more of a slicing cut along the surface. Ed Brown and, others are masters using this tool. Maybe someone else can explain the use better than I have.

Additionally, I think I like the toe on the bottom best.
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What he said...oval skew. 90% of my pen turning is with it.
 
Dan - Skews need to NOT have sharp edges that will catch on the tool rest. Many come with the sides sharp. Round them over with a belt sander or on the grinder.

Get some plain cheap wood -- and practice. Some suggest 2 by 2 from the lumber yard. I found that poplar or maple works better for getting the feel of the wood we use in small stuff like pens.

Easiest skew to start on is the one that Keith Tompkins designed. I got one to try and it is much harder to create a catch, but it does not allow one to do all the things a regular skew does.

Oval skews are a bit easier to control but are a bit harder to sharpen consistently.

There are two different approaches to shaping the end of the skew -- the rounded end (Alan Lacer) and the straight edge (traditional for the last hundreds of years). Both work.

There are a couple of different approaches to sharpening -- hollow ground -- traditional and a more rounded edge (Eli Avisera).

Some use only grinder to sharpen -- some use a diamond hone to touch up the edge as they turn - especially for finish cuts.

You will want to become proficient with point down and with heel down -- both directions.

Practice practice practice and it will come --

USE THE BEVEL is the only common part to all this -- USE THE BEVEL or you will have lots of problems --

AAW has some new materials on training out --
 
Carbide tip Skew --- You will need a diamond hone or diamond lap to sharpen a carbide cutting edge --

They take time and care to sharpen -- and that outdated stuff about a green wheel was all about the carbides of the 60's and 70s -- not the stuff being made and sold today.
 
This is what works for me:

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Foreshortening in the photo makes the chisel look stubby, but it is ground at a 30 degree skew angle. I have an oval skew, but I don't like it. I prefer a 1" flat skew with a rounded heel. If you look at the sharpened edge, you can see that it is hollow-ground, and has been touched-up with a flat stone (I use a diamond hone) a few times. As the photo illustrates, it cuts ribbons.

The shear-cutting action is achieved by presenting the edge to the work at an angle, and moving along the axis of the piece. That is, you start near one end, and the cut progresses along the length of the blank. Use the center of the skew, not the point or heel. Don't cut into the piece (unless you're making a v-cut). Keep firm axial (side-to-side) pressure on the tool to avoid a catch.

Many people recommend "riding the bevel" of the tool to help maintain control, but I find that tends to leave spiral ridges. I get a smoother cut if I stay just off the bevel.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 
Eric's picture is excellent!!

One thing you should notice is that the skew is angled upward slightly. Your back hand should be lower than the tool rest, by six inches or so.

Also note the lower edge of his skew has been sanded rounder-ish! It is NOT an oval skew, which touches your tool rest in only one point, it has the stability of a square skew, without the sharp edge that will mar your toolrest if you get a catch----best of both worlds.
 
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A lot to learn and pratice, I have some scrap I can make into prstice blanks. I think I may wait until after the MAPG, I have some pens to finish up before then.
 
In looking at the skew in Eric's photo and Ed's videos, it seems the blade of the skew is perpendicular to the axis of the handle. Most skews I see on the market (including all that I have) present the blade edge of the skew at an angle (other than 90*) to the axis of the handle. This may be difficult to picture in words. What I'm eluding to is this: is the angle of blade edge to handle axis more beneficial at 90* or at another angle?

I've thought about grinding down an old skew to make the blade edge perpendicular just to try it, but I haven't found the "stones" to do it yet.
 
Cmiles1985 said:
In looking at the skew in Eric's photo and Ed's videos, it seems the blade of the skew is perpendicular to the axis of the handle. Most skews I see on the market (including all that I have) present the blade edge of the skew at an angle (other than 90*) to the axis of the handle. This may be difficult to picture in words. What I'm eluding to is this: is the angle of blade edge to handle axis more beneficial at 90* or at another angle?

I've thought about grinding down an old skew to make the blade edge perpendicular just to try it, but I haven't found the "stones" to do it yet.
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What you are asking about is below in my pic. I'm using a 35 degree bevel on an oval skew. There are many ways to use it, this is probably my most common approach on a blank.

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I think Steve's approach is more traditional for skew use. It is an approach that could also easily cut coves in a spindle (which we never do on pens of course.

It is very close to what I do.

Eric's approach looks similar to what Ed Brown does in his videos and seems very effective for pen turning.
 
The perspective of the photograph can be deceiving. If you looked at my skew presentation from the top, it would look very similar to Steve's. The edge is not perpendicular, but rather at an angle (somewhere around 40-45 degrees) to the axis of the blank. That makes the chisel appear sharper to the turning than the actual grind angle.

Regards,
Eric
 
Sylvanite said:
The perspective of the photograph can be deceiving. If you looked at my skew presentation from the top, it would look very similar to Steve's.
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I was browsing through some of my old pictures for another reason and came across this shot. It shows that the chisel is ground at at 30 degree skew angle.

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I hope that helps,
Eric
 

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One more note that is very important, make sure the point stays above/out of the cutting actions and you will not have issues with catches. Erics last picture really shows this well. If the point gets into the action when you are planing as in the above picture you are amost always going to catch.
 
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