Where to buy round metric dies and taps?

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mikeschn

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Just curious, where does every buy their metric taps and "round" dies for making their kitless pens?

I thought I had a source, but I could only find the SAE dies in round. The metric were hex shaped.

Suggestions?

Mike...
 
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mikeschn

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Thanks Mike,

I just found your tap & die article. Are you still in favor of buying the taps and dies in the sizes you need as you need them?

@Herb,

I should have thought of mcmaster. I've used them before. They have a lot of everything!

Mike...
 

mikeschn

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Are these any good, or should I stick with Victor?

45 Pc Titanium Nitride Coated Alloy Steel Metric Tap & Die Set

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60676.pdf

6 x .75
6 x 1.0
8 x 1.0
8 x 1.25
10 x 1.25
10 x 1.5
12 x 1.5
12 x 1.75
14 x 1.5
14 x 2.0
16 x 1.5
16 x 2.0
18 x 1.5
18 x 2.5
20 x 1.5
20 x 2.5
22 x 1.5
22 x 2.5
24 x 1.5
24 x 3.0

It's missing a couple sizes that Mike Redburn uses, I could get the missing sizes from Victor... http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/taps_dies_kitless.pdf

The HF set also doesn't specify the OD of the dies, and I don't know if they fit the die holder for the lathe...
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2314
 
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duncsuss

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Wilmington, MA
Honestly, I wouldn't get that set -- and it's nothing to do with anti-HF sentiments, it's quite simply that these are the wrong thread pitches for penmaking IMO.

My most-used tap & die are M9 x 0.75 -- I use them for almost every section/barrel joint and almost every cap/finial joint (the clip-ring slips over the 9mm threaded tenon and the finial holds it in place.)

I sometimes use M10 x 0.75 for those parts, but it's not often.

For the cap/barrel threads, I began with M12 x 0.75.

Those, to me, are the 3 first sets to purchase.

I upgraded to double-lead or triple-lead taps and dies (taking advantage of IAP group buys) for 12mm, 13mm and 14mm joints.

I've never had a need (or desire) to make threads coarser than x 1. I think the only time I've used M10 x 1 was to match a section I didn't make myself.
 

thewishman

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Mike, once you get to the X1.5 the threads are pretty coarse and may not work for pens. It would be cheaper to get the right ones from Victor than to try to use the three (8 x 1.0,
8 x 1.25, and 10 x 1.25) that would work well for pens.
 

Skie_M

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If you need that tap and die set for OTHER THINGS, then by all means grab it. It's a good purchase and decent quality for the money, should last you a long time.

For penmaking, you're really gonna want the double and triple lead taps and dies with the finer thread pitches. Save up the money for them and you"ll be happy you did!
 

jj9ball

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Someone is probably gonna shoot me for saying this. Triple leads are a little overrated I have sets for both 13 and 14mm I use them here and there, but most people are particular about the number of turns a cap takes to go on and off If you don't believe me watch Matt Armstrong with The Pen Habit on youtube That being said, if you make a shouldered barrel for the pen you can kill back threads until it goes on and off the way you want Victor Machine and Tool is a great place to get all the wierd sized metric sets Here is my suggested order list
9mm x 75
10mm x 75 and 1
11mm x 75 I use this for section threads
12mm x 75
13mm x 1 it makes a courser thread but still works well
14mm x 75 and 1
15mm x 1
16mm x 1 these last two will make pens so large that the #6 nib will look small

Once you are done with these go to Mike Redburn and buy the specialty taps for the nibs you are going to use and you should be good to go While you are at Victor Machine be sure to buy drill bits I would suggest the jobber bits if you have a drill bit sharpener they will last forever Remember to buy the correct size 9- 75 + 8,25 drill bit 10mm - 1 = 9mm drill bit and so on

I hope this helps Also please forgive the punctuation issues in this message The period is broke on my keyboard Thank you to my 2 kids for that
 
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Skie_M

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No more periods for the rest of your life, eh?


My sister is jealous.


No, really ... and she's laughing her butt off right now.


Anyways ... hope you can replace or repair the keyboard soon. :)


Sometimes it's just a matter of prying up the key and re-setting the little metal bar/spring under there so that it can go up and down again.
 

AWLogue

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I'd like to add that 6.5mmx0.5 and 7.5mmx0.5 taps, for jowo #5 (and schmidt cartridge rollerball) and jowo #6 nib units, respectively, can be acquired on eBay.

Those of you who said you use 9mm x 0.75 for section-body threads, have you ever had failures? I recently made a section with those threads, but it snapped off after a few days of carry. I'm thinking the weak polyester resin was to blame, but wanted to hear your opinions too.
 

duncsuss

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Those of you who said you use 9mm x 0.75 for section-body threads, have you ever had failures? I recently made a section with those threads, but it snapped off after a few days of carry. I'm thinking the weak polyester resin was to blame, but wanted to hear your opinions too.

I've not had this problem since I stopped cutting a relief groove at the junction of the tenon and section; now I cut away a little of the internal thread in the barrel to get the same effect (allowing the section to screw all the way into the barrel).
 

SteveG

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Those of you who said you use 9mm x 0.75 for section-body threads, have you ever had failures? I recently made a section with those threads, but it snapped off after a few days of carry. I'm thinking the weak polyester resin was to blame, but wanted to hear your opinions too.

I've not had this problem since I stopped cutting a relief groove at the junction of the tenon and section; now I cut away a little of the internal thread in the barrel to get the same effect (allowing the section to screw all the way into the barrel).

Nice solution to a real potential problem. It is generally considered a bad day when your (or your customer's) exquisite custom pen decides to break right in half!! :eek: :eek:
 

mikeschn

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Lake Orion, MI
I've not had this problem since I stopped cutting a relief groove at the junction of the tenon and section; now I cut away a little of the internal thread in the barrel to get the same effect (allowing the section to screw all the way into the barrel).

Nice trick! Gotta remember that one! :)

Mike...
 
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