Zero Clearance Insert for Jet JWBS-14SFX? 3D printed, commission request

[jrista]

Is there anyone out there that I could commission to make a set of these zero clearance inserts for the JWBS-14SFX bandsaw? I've tried to turn a few out of HDPE a few times, but they just are never quite right (too tall, too short, something like that). This is a 3D printed insert, which would probably be a much better option than trying to turn one out of HDPE or anything else.

Jet JWBS-14SFX Bandsaw Zero Clearance Insert by lucasmcarter

The Jet JWBS-14SFX bandsaw uses a slightly larger opening than previous models, so if you order a zero clearance insert from amazon (or Rockler) it'll be too small. Quick and dirty zero clearance insert. I took a few passes for the slot to give the blade a little extra wiggle room, as I wanted...

www.thingiverse.com

Thanks!

 

[jttheclockman]

Now come on you are a turner. That is what we do. You can make it out of wood or aluminum. You do not need that lower section. It sits on a lip so just turn to size the top portion. If you make out of wood make it from a hard wood and if worried about friction. Put a coat of poly on it. Piece of acrylic would work too. If you have HDPE. cut to proper thickness on tablesaw so one less measurement. Then double sided tape to a flat blank in a chuck and turn to exact circle. Could not be easier. If you have a scrollsaw cut it out using that.

 

[jrista]

Now come on you are a turner. That is what we do. You can make it out of wood or aluminum. You do not need that lower section. It sits on a lip so just turn to size the top portion. If you make out of wood make it from a hard wood and if worried about friction. Put a coat of poly on it. Piece of acrylic would work too. If you have HDPE. cut to proper thickness on tablesaw so one less measurement. Then double sided tape to a flat blank in a chuck and turn to exact circle. Could not be easier. If you have a scrollsaw cut it out using that.

Its not as easy as it sounds. I've turned a bunch, and inevitably I end up turning it too thin. For the life of me, I can't seem to stop at just the right thickness, and I'm not sure why. Additionally, this bandsaw has some notch requirements that have been a perpetial pain in my rear to get positioned and drilled right. Besides, I've got enough else going on, I don't need to spend a couple of hours fiddling with HDPE in another futile attempt to make one that won't leave me catching the edge of whatever it is I'm carefully trying to cut very thin, and ruin the wood.

 

[jttheclockman]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3258287155...uTnh3lu8xYs0Y9+0Mp9EeEqjg=|tkp:Bk9SR4Li9_jtYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3258207904...31j/aRI/zFY0+IcYz/CgUkUA==|tkp:Bk9SR4Li9_jtYg

 

[hooked]

I can print a few of these for you over the weekend if you would like. PM me your address if you would like me to print them and let me know how many.

 

[SteveG]

If you have or intend to add dust collection to your band saw, you might consider adding a number of holes (about .25" diameter) to the insert. This is common on many newer bandsaws, allowing for getting a bit more of the sawdust created right there at the source. I drilled these for my saw, but probably could be included in a 3D print job.

 

[jrista]

If you have or intend to add dust collection to your band saw, you might consider adding a number of holes (about .25" diameter) to the insert. This is common on many newer bandsaws, allowing for getting a bit more of the sawdust created right there at the source. I drilled these for my saw, but probably could be included in a 3D print job.

Ah, that's a good idea... Yeah, I do intend to use a DC in the long run. In the short term, I've got a shop vac connected to the upper port, and a plywood plate to catch most of the shavings that make it underneath the table.

I can print a few of these for you over the weekend if you would like. PM me your address if you would like me to print them and let me know how many.

Thanks. I'll PM you.

 

[randyrls]

Jon; Why do you want the insert? (not trying to be snarky) When I need to cut small parts, I use 4 pieces of painters tape. Just put one on each side and one in front and one behind.

PS. I do this because I once was cutting small pieces and one of them dropped through the insert and caught between the bottom wheel and blade. The blade ends parted company with a LOUD BANG! I turned the saw off, went upstairs and changed my under wear!

 

[jrista]

Jon; Why do you want the insert? (not trying to be snarky) When I need to cut small parts, I use 4 pieces of painters tape. Just put one on each side and one in front and one behind.

PS. I do this because I once was cutting small pieces and one of them dropped through the insert and caught between the bottom wheel and blade. The blade ends parted company with a LOUD BANG! I turned the saw off, went upstairs and changed my under wear!

Yeah, small parts, or very thin pieces of wood. I was experimenting the other day, and was I guess you would say, re-sawing a smallish piece of wood to thin sheets. One was mostly ok but the back end corner got clipped. The second sheet shattered about two thirds of the way through into splinters. I was trying to use one of my turned inserts, but getting the two notches for the set screws (which I guess keep the plate from spinning in its hole) didn't go so well, and that resulted in the slot I cut not being as thin as it could have been...and I guess, the blade must have just yanked the sheet of wood I was cutting right through the slot? This was the main reason.

I'm also experimenting with segmented blanks. Step 1 is small parts, and I didn't even want to try without having a better zero-clearance insert in place. The inserts I've turned always leave a slight lip. The front lip isn't a huge problem. The back lip, though, always catches (even if it is just the tiniest amount!!), and then that usually means I screw up the cut, and with small pieces of wood, a small screwup is a big defect. Now, for this stuff, I think building a better bandsaw sled would be the better solution in the long run, but I need to figure out how to build a good sled that will let me cut these tiny pieces... In the mean time, I've just been using a standard miter gauge. Which actually works fine, except for the insert I've been using.

I hadn't thought of painters tape....but, thinking about it now. The insert that came with my bandsaw, which is metal, has at least a 1/4" slot. Even with painters tape, I feel that there would be some give there, because there just isn't anything below to hold it up. Also curious....does painters tape create a lip itself, something that might catch the wood at the front edge of the insert? This is always my problem...catching the edge of the wood on either the front or the back edge of the insert.

 

[SteveG]

Have you considered using a simple aux-table? Something like the pic shown here (Credit to Popular Woodworking). This provides a zero-clearance kerf with no concerns about catching on the insert. I have used ones a number of times, and have also attached a strip to the underside that registers against the leading edge of the iron table to locate the aux-table properly and keep it from moving. An even simpler version is a single flat sheet, cut the kerf, then clamp in place. You lose (cover) the miter slot, but I expect there are ways to address that, easily found via google search.

 

[jttheclockman]

In the scrollsaw world we use playing cards taped down over the slots and holes for zero clearance.

 

[randyrls]

Now, for this stuff, I think building a better bandsaw sled would be the better solution in the long run, but I need to figure out how to build a good sled that will let me cut these tiny pieces... In the mean time, I've just been using a standard miter gauge. Which actually works fine, except for the insert I've been using.

Jon; I made a jig to cut both the blanks and thin inserts. I use this on the table saw but it could be used on a band saw. My band saw isn't the best and any jig after many uses the slot in the jig widens to 3-4 times the width of the blade. The main points of the jig are the lead screw allows you to make precise thickness inserts, and the clamp that holds both the insert material and the thin off cut. This keeps the insert from flying into the dim reaches of the shop!

Right now I have 3 celtic knot blanks laying ready for drilling and turning.

https://www.penturners.org/resources/celtic-knot-slicing-jig-version-2.430/

 

[jrista]

Have you considered using a simple aux-table? Something like the pic shown here (Credit to Popular Woodworking). This provides a zero-clearance kerf with no concerns about catching on the insert. I have used ones a number of times, and have also attached a strip to the underside that registers against the leading edge of the iron table to locate the aux-table properly and keep it from moving. An even simpler version is a single flat sheet, cut the kerf, then clamp in place. You lose (cover) the miter slot, but I expect there are ways to address that, easily found via google search.




View attachment 362601

I have been planning to make a better bandsaw sled, which would have a thin kerf, but I hadn't considered a fixed tabletop. That's pretty intersting. I like the idea of using magnets to hold it in place, too. I have some MDF, and could probably use that to make one of these.

I have plans for a sled, which would include its own miter slots and whatnot, but I haven't quite finished the design yet, and I'm not entirely sure of all I need/want in it to support segmenting and the like (of not just wood, I have numerous mostly resin segmented blanks I want to make as well, and some even include trustone.)

Jon; I made a jig to cut both the blanks and thin inserts. I use this on the table saw but it could be used on a band saw. My band saw isn't the best and any jig after many uses the slot in the jig widens to 3-4 times the width of the blade. The main points of the jig are the lead screw allows you to make precise thickness inserts, and the clamp that holds both the insert material and the thin off cut. This keeps the insert from flying into the dim reaches of the shop!

Right now I have 3 celtic knot blanks laying ready for drilling and turning.

https://www.penturners.org/resources/celtic-knot-slicing-jig-version-2.430/

Yeah, widening of hte slot has been one of my problems. Not much you can do to avoid it, especially when you change blades (unless I was to turn a new insert for every blade, which would have been a real pain.) Having an insert per blade might work to ensure that the kerf stays small.

I'll take a look at your sled design this evening. Looks interesting!