Linda,
Since I can't sleep, I'll go in details in case this is helpful for others!
I do pens because I like to the beauty of the wood, the blanks I use cost a lot and my goal is to show the best side of those blanks. I do not care not that much about the writing instrument.
Regarding the finish here is few details I think really make a difference when making/finishing a pen.
- JohnnyCNC's bushings when finishing
- A razor sharp skew to make my final cut before sanding
- 4 wings carbide barrel trimmer
- Satellite City's aerosol accelerator (makes a nice even mist)
- Pen mandrel saver
- Using good condition MM sand paper (ALWAYS!)
- Good lighting
- Working in a clean area
- Turning when you feel good and you can afford the time doing so
Now regarding my procedure when finishing:
- I use 2 sets of bushings, old ones on the lathe and new to check the size of my barrels. When turned to size or just a hair over the new bushings I proceed with sanding.
- I dry sand with P220, P400, P600, P1500, when I am done I make sure I have no sanding dust left so I blow the barrels with my compressor and rub the blanks with a towel in all directions. I do not touch the blanks with my hands when it is sanded to that point because usually it leaves fingerprints.
- I use strips of 1/2" of Shop Towels as applicators. I set my lathe at 1500 RPM and I apply while turning and accelerate between each coat. I usually use thin CA glue for the first 3 coats and the rest is all done with medium. I usually wet sand with 3000 MM when I feel it is needed, surely at around 10 coats to level the finish. I also like to sand the end of the barrels at this point so there's not too much glue build up.
- I continue with 10 to 15 more coats and I usually sand between every 3 coats. I think the choice of accelerator makes a whole lot of difference with really dark wood like cocobolo or african blackwood, those woods are not forgiving. A fine mist of a accelerator will not cloud the finish as compared to the glass cleaner type of spray that has an uneven spray of droplets. I discovered this a little while ago and since I use Satellite City's accelerator making a nice finish has been easy.
- When I feel I am done, meaning my finish being even, usually at around 20 to 30 coats I go from 3000 to 12000 with the MM. I take my time, I usually dry the barrels after each grit with a shop towels to see where I need to work.
- I use Shop Towels as applicator for plastic polish and I apply it by rubbing from left to right but turning the lathe by hand and I go for 100 or so passes on each barrel. I set my lathe at 4000 RPM and I use toilet paper to polish the finish. I do this 3 or 4 times.
- When assembling the pen I make sure I work with enough space and that I am comfortable. I secure the barrels while I am not working with them.
Regarding the photography, I just have a 200$ point and shoot camera, no tripod but I have a steady hand and burst mode. I take 200-300 pictures and I figure out the best focused pictures then I go in Photoshop to select the pen inverse the selection and blur the background and remove the vibrance. To me what is important is a centered pen, no dust of any sort.
All those small details make it possible for me sell a pen the price I want and when I want to sell it. In the end when your satisfied with the result of your work it's easier to sell and that pen will be seen many others. I'd hate to see a pen I made I do not like in the hand of a customer, so this is why I have like 100 "defect pens" laying around here.
Charles
Charles that is one of the most beautiful jobs I have seen done with CocoBolo Burl. The color is fantastic in both the sap and hardwood.
Your finish is spot on as well - mind if I ask what finish process you used?
Nice nice nice ... drool has now dripped into my keyboard and I must go clean it ups ... mutter.
As others have said - fantastic photo as well.
Linda