yorkshire grit

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Feb 14, 2012
407 East Cottonwood Drive, Cottonwood AZ
Can any one tell me the difference between yorkshire grit and buffing compound? I have seen several videos where the turners swear by yorkshire grit, also how to make your own sanding grit. Thanks for helping me understand the difference.

John Eldeen

Apr 3, 2019
Sacramento, CA
If yu are in reference to buffing compound that yu would use with buffing wheels then they do essentially the same thing. Just different formulas to suit the application process.


Nov 16, 2011
Sterling, VA USA
Hi William! Long time no see.
While I haven’t used the Yorkshire Grit myself, I can give you my thoughts.....which are just that. Maybe I am completely off base but here you go.
My understanding is that one can stop sanding at 320 and use YG to finish the sanding process without as much dust and that the grit will break down into finer particles as you use it. This mixture has wax and or oils as a carrier of the grit....so when using this, you have committed to certain types of finishes since you are adding these waxes/oils to your wood.
I wouldn’t think you would try a CA finish over this or a Lacquer for instance.
After the YG, Many folks use the Hampshire Sheen and would probably end up with a finish similar to using the buffing compound and wheels.
So, I think you end up with basically the same finish with either buffing or using these products. I feel the expense of the YG and HS may exceed the savings in sandpaper and time with using traditional sanding methods.
With the buffing wheels/compounds, you can buff/polish other surface finishes as well such as CA, Lacquer, WOP, etc. to a smoother, more lustrous sheen. Care needs to be taken not to “burn” through a surface finish by buffing to fast creating heat and basically melting a surface finish.
Hope this helps!


Mar 13, 2010
Saratoga Springs, NY
The English manufacturer of YG describes the process for using it is a series of steps:
  • Sand the piece to 320 grit
  • Apply one (or more ) coat of sanding sealer. My sense is that in the UK, lacquer-based sanding sealers (also called 'cellulose sealer') are more popular than a shellac-based sealer.
  • Use YG to polish the surface
  • Apply a final coat of wax such as Hampshire Sheen or Chestnut WoodWax 22, or a microcrystalline wax
In this sequence, the use of YG is essentially the same a buffing with a wheel and buffing compound - that is, it is used to polish an underlying finish, and before a wax top coat is applied. That is, the sanding sealer is the actual finish, and the YG and wax polishes the surface to a gloss. However, you will also see people who apply YG to raw (unsealed wood); in this approach, the true finish is just the wax - that's OK for a display item, but it won't withstand a lot of handling, and many turners in North America assert that wax is not actually a finish, but rather only a surface treatment. And there are a few people who suggest using the YG to polish the raw wood, and then applying a danish oil as a top coat.

There are other products that are essentially similar to YG - the Australian Shellawax EEE, and the US Dr. Kirk's ScratchFrEEE for example. And there are formulas for DIY versions that are variously referred to as polishing wax or sanding wax ; these are typically blends of beeswax, mineral oil, and an abrasive such as pumice or diatomaceous earth.

My most common 'go-to' finish is a long-oil varnish that produces a nice soft-gloss surface. If I want something more glossy, I can either break out the buffing wheels, or use Dr. Kirk's ScratchFrEEE. My unscientific observation is that either approach produces a nice initial gloss, but the carnauba wax final step with buffing wheels is longer lasting.

Different strokes for different folks.
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