Yes, I do turn wood too...

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YoYoSpin

YoYoSpin

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Feb 6, 2004
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Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
Its been a long time since I turned a wood pen; thought I'd better give it a try to see if I still remember how. From top to bottom, these are Ebony, Redwood burl, Tulipwood, X-Y Lay and Spalted and stabilized Box Elder.
pen117a.jpg
 
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Thanks guys...these were dry sanded to 600 grit, followed by one coat of Mylands Sanding Sealer, a Beall buff with the Tripoli and White Diamond wheels only, and finally...two coats of Renaissance Wax buffed out on the third Beall wheel. BTW, since I discovered Renaissance Wax, the Carnauba Wax bar that would normally be used on the third wheel of the Beall kit is now used as a candle.
 
Fantastic Ed, every time I see the finish on your pens I think, I gotta get that buffer. But I have to be able to get back into my shop first [:)]
You definitly have not lost the touch. I remeber when I first saw your pens posted at yahoo. How many of them do you think you've made now. Always seemed to me you show about five new ones a day. That has to be about 5000 just since I started seeing them.
 
Ed,
I was just sitting here reading your article in the last issue of Woodturning Design on how you made the bottle stopper stand. In the article, you thin the Mylands with a little lacquer thinner and apply it to the wood, quickly wiping off any excess.

Is that about how you do the pens the same way..?

Thanks,
JohnPayton
 
John...yes, that's exactly right. It comes out of the can pretty thick and needs to be thinned. The real problem with Sanding Sealer (Shellac) is that it dries very fast and will leave a clumpy/lumpy surface if you don't wipe off the excess right away. Also, do not apply Sanding Sealer in a cold room, or under a fan...the alcohol (evaporating) in the sealer is what causes this stuff to dry so quickly; so the warmer the room, the better.
 
Just like riding a bike Ed, some things you never forget. Stunning. How do you feel about the durability of the finish to retain its luster over use?
 
Originally posted by YoYoSpin
<br />John...yes, that's exactly right. It comes out of the can pretty thick and needs to be thinned. The real problem with Sanding Sealer (Shellac) is that it dries very fast and will leave a clumpy/lumpy surface if you don't wipe off the excess right away. Also, do not apply Sanding Sealer in a cold room, or under a fan...the alcohol (evaporating) in the sealer is what causes this stuff to dry so quickly; so the warmer the room, the better.
Click to expand...

Ed,
Hope you don't mind me asking; after you apply the sanding sealer, is it OK to polish with MM to 12000? Also, if it's too cold what else do you use for a sealer?

Thanks,
Tom Wojeck
 
Tom, I've used MM and it works fine...but it just takes too long for my taste. Like most things in our little woodturning universe, it’s mostly a matter of personal preference. If it works for you, then do it, and Beall works best for me.

On the use of Sanding Sealer, I'm definitely in a rut...it's the ONLY thing I use. If the room is cold, and I've just got to finish something, then I have two choices: drag out a space heater, or robustly buff with the Tripoli wheel to get the lumpy clumps of dried sealer off the turning's surface.
 
Well you certainly have my attention with the short sanding session. and faster finish. CA does take as long as turnign the pen in the first place. adn then ad M.M to the mix. I still like my results with them though. But this method has me thinking about Freedom Pens and other not so top of the line ones that I make. I have been milling over the possibility of coming up with a low priced slim line. I want $15.00 or less. Bulk Buying at $1.70 per kit from POC or Woodturningz, doing them in batches, using the less than extravigant woods. has gotten me to the $20.00 range. I will try this finish and see if it doesn't get the time down enough to shave off the other 5 bucks. If I can get around 6 per hour that would be only $3.33 per pen for the time involved. I can let it get around $5.00 for labor and still be in the ball park if the blank stays under a dollar. It would be rally nice to do this with $2.00 blanks. those would still be eye catching and inexpensive. as for those one of a kind woods. i woudl still stay with the longer method of CA.
that Ebony pen really pops. and you do an increadibly consistant job of capturing the finish in your pens. I feel like I am holding them in my hand.
 
Originally posted by YoYoSpin
<br />Next to CA, this is the best finish process I've come across...and I can still turn/finish 5 to 6 pens an hour. With a CA finish, I'm lucky to do two an hour.
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Ed,
So it isn't just me?! I thought I was just a real slow poke with the CA Glue finish. And thanks for the tip about the Renaissance wax. I've been using the Carnuaba, then buffing with the Renaissance wax. Know I know I can bag the Carnuaba.

BTW, loved the pen display article in "Woodturning Design". I just completed one based on another of your designs and posted pics here.
 
Ed,
So it isn't just me?! I thought I was just a real slow poke with the CA Glue finish. And thanks for the tip about the Renaissance wax. I've been using the Carnuaba, then buffing with the Renaissance wax. Know I know I can bag the Carnuaba.

BTW, loved the pen display article in "Woodturning Design". I just completed one based on another of your designs and posted pics here.
Click to expand...

I'm terribly slow when it comes to using the CA method.

But I can't imagine doing 6 per hour. I'm lucky if I can get out 2. What tool do you use to do your turning? I've been using a bowl gouge.
 
Tom, I use a gouge to get the blanks turned into a cylinder, then switch to a 1/2" round nosed scraper and 1" skew for all the curves, coves, beads and the like. The main thing I like to achieve in these curvy pen designs is a nice crisp and distinct edge...so be extra careful when sanding to not round your edges over too much.
 
You know, Ed, the think I find so amazing about your skew work is the way you transition from concave to convex curves, then cleverly cut through even your most intricate of design flows to introduce the bold edges. Having seen your work here and in other forums, I feel confident that I could pick your work out from any assembly of artistic writing instruments and bottle stoppers.

Now that you're well buttered-up, are you prohibited from reprinting your published articles here? Or is there any way you could provide us with a list of links? Between you, Russ Fairchild and a few others, I'm sure our library could use some fresh material. [8D]
 
Lou, you're very kind...and you can put that butter knife away now.

I'll have to check with Woodturning Design magazine on published articles. We'll need their ok...there are three so far: One Piece (no glue) Yo-Yo Making, Polymer Clay Pen Making and Wine Bottle Stopper Lazy Susan Making.

In the mean time, here's some links to other articles that could be of interest. Feel free to use any of these as you and the IAP see fit:

So you want a lathe...Testing how-to:
http://www.yoyospin.com/lathe/

Simple box making how-to:
http://www.yoyospin.com/box2/

Cork Bottle Stopper how-to:
http://www.yoyospin.com/stop/

Bottle Stopper Laminations how-to:
http://www.yoyospin.com/laminate/

Berea All-Chrome Bottle Stopper how-to:
http://www.yoyospin.com/stopper/
 
Ed, I have a bone to pick with you [}:)] You caused me allot of work tonight.

I had a jr. pen turned with just the sanding sealer applied to it. The Beal buff was allready on the lathe from some resins I had finished. I only used the Beal for resins.

So being pretty lazy, I just hand sanded to barrell with 400 and then about 3 different MM and went to the wheel. Brown, white, 3 coats of Renissance wax. To my surprise, it looked real good. So I went to put it in my finished barrel case and notice how it stood out from the others.

Well.....I finished buffing about 100 barrels tonight with just the Renissance wax. And tomarrow, my daughter will be mad at you too, because I am going to make her wax the barrels, while I buff the next 100. [:o)]

I must say, I will have the shiniest fingers in the office tomarrow[8D] Thanks
 
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